How to Grow Anthurium Warocqueanum?

Anthurium warocqueanum is also known as queen anthurium and is named in honor of Belgium-based plant enthusiast M. Warocqué. This is a perennial plant and has a climbing growing nature. It requires more care and management than the other plants in its category, so it is somewhat difficult to grow. Anthurium leaves are deceptively smaller but grow quickly to immense sizes. It can attain a maximum height of about six feet provided by proper care and support. While it grows only three feet in indoor conditions because plants in the indoor environment are dependent on the growers and some kind of growth reduction is evident when the plant is not growing in its native climatic conditions.

Anthurium produces velvety, light green to darker leaves and its leaves are provided with silvery veins that even become more evident with time. Initially, the veins are not harder but at the later developmental stages, these become sturdy and thicker as cardboard. The leaves can reach a maximum height of about four feet, but the leaf size is greatly dependent on the grow zone, and management measures. It produces insignificant blooms that specifically appear on the smaller spathes and are hidden by the spadix of pale yellowish-green color. The size of inflorescence can be enhanced by the provision of the right care and management. Properly managed plants produce red-colored berries having a significant attraction for the birds.


Anthurium warocqueanum is a hardy growing plant and grows well in the USDA zone of 10a-11. Although it can also be grown in other areas with mild fluctuation in the growing conditions, it must be protected from sudden fluctuation in temperature. Moreover, placing or growing the plants in too hot or cold conditions can also exert significant negative influences on their foliage and development.


This plant grows well in the well-drained and rich soil and grows mixes. The use of peat moss, sphagnum moss, charcoal, orchid bark, perlite, and organic material is greatly important to improve the physical, chemical, and biological properties of growing media. Ideally, it grows well in the pH range between 6.6-7.5, and growers can easily manage and control the pH of the growing medium by the addition of the right amendments. Maintaining the right pH is directly related to improved nutrient uptake and transformation.

Major variation in the soil pH can cause significant damage to the growing plants in terms of nutritional deficiencies and toxicities. The pH and properties of soil are greatly dependent on the material being used as an amendment and the specific topography and parent material of an area.

Therefore, growers must go for soil testing to get an idea about the physical, chemical, and biological attributes of the soil. They can avail of these services from the governmental soil and water testing laboratories, and agriculture extension workers. Moreover, pH meters of optimal and small sizes are also available in the market so purchasing pH meters is also a good approach for regular checking.

Lighting Requirements

This plant responds well to the light but it grows on the tree trunks in its natural growing environments. Direct and prolonged exposure of leaves to sunlight can cause leaf burning and scorching. The provision of indirect and bright sunlight helps to improve its growth and development. Growing this plant in mild or partial shade conditions is also helpful to boost growth. However, light must be provided for a few hours a day as otherwise, it can cause leaf yellowing.


Anthurium requires fairly higher humidity levels and growers must maintain at least 60-70% humidity in its surroundings. Growers can improve humidity in outdoor growing conditions by misting and regular water spraying. The use of humidifiers and placing the container in the pebble-filled moist try are excellent approaches to improve humidity.


Providing slow-release fertilizer at least once a week is helpful to improve the overall health and development of anthurium plants. This plant needs a continuous supply of nutrients for its normal growth and is continually receiving nutrients from plants in its natural environment. While in the outdoor and indoor conditions in the houses plant is not able to grow on a tree trunk and cannot obtain sufficient nutrients.

So, growers must provide the nutrients in the form of synthetic chemicals, and organic fertilizers to support their optimal growth. There is no need to fertilize the anthurium plants during the cold seasons. While application of balanced fertilizers instead of using any specific one is most significant to get better results. Dilution of fertilizer before the application is helpful to minimize overfertilizing, and foliage burning.


This plant grows well provided by good irrigation and moisture. However, the growth and development are directly affected by the presence of standing water. So good quality and well-drained growing medium should be used to improve drainage.

While growers should also do drainage holes in the containers to support effective drainage. Overwatering and underwatering can cause foliage burning and the appearance of spots on the leaves. While negligence for a longer period can also kill the healthy growing plants.

This plant requires a regular watering schedule because it is native to the rainforests and these rainforests receive much more rain than the other regions. The best growth and development of the plants can be observed by providing them best conditions according to their native climatic conditions.

Leaf yellowing is an indication of overwatering so growers must check their watering schedule at this time to minimize the damage. Watering after five to seven days is an ideal choice to maintain a good schedule. The selection of the right growing medium having good water holding capacity is also important to manage the watering needs of the plants.

This plant has more watering requirements than the other plants and grows well in partial shade conditions. So, there are slightly more chances of bacterial infections and fungal attacks. Growers must check the growing plants regularly for early detection of the problems. Although its foliage is thick and enormous it is delicate and sensitive to moisture and overwatering. Keeping a good eye on the growing plants is helpful to maintain good growth and development.


Anthurium grows well in the daylight temperature between 25-32 degrees Celsius and at night temperature 21-24 degrees Celsius. Higher temperatures can cause foliage to dry and fading of flowers. It can tolerate little fluctuation in the temperature, but major variation is greatly harmful. A temperature of fewer than 16 degrees Celsius can directly kill this plant. Growers must keep the growing plants away from drafts, ventilator grills, and heat ducts.


This plant requires regular pruning to maintain its good health and shape. Pruning is a great way to improve the health of growing plants as the growing plants can provide nutrients and energy to the newly growing points and branches. The larger growing plants do not look attractive in the houses and must be pruned to attain average height. More surface area of the plants also favors the more retention of moisture for longer times. This can make the plant more prone to diseases and bacterial problems. Always use sterilized and clean scissors to trim the dead parts, and damaged leaves.

How to grow Anthurium Warocqueanum from Seeds?

Usually, anthurium plants do not produce seeds in all growing environments so seed collection can be a problematic task. Obtaining seeds from friends, neighbors, or gardening stores is a feasible way to start anthurium from the seeds. The health and quality of seeds are a major concern for producing vigorous seedlings and healthier plants.

Therefore, growers should collect the seeds from reliable sources only. Propagating anthurium from the seeds is a tricky process and requires great care than the other methods. Production of fertile flowers is also a tricky task because there are different activation times for stamens and stigma. Pollen saving followed by tickling can help to produce good quality flowers and seeds. A

Anthurium plants produce both female and male flowers and female flowers come first. Fruit production is only possible when the plant has both male and female flowers. The presence of only one sex will never be favorable to produce fruits and seeds. Male flowers produce pollen and growers must collect these pollens and store it in the refrigerator because this plant produces the male and female flowers at different times.

The presence of female flowers can be identified by the presence of spadix. Usually, this spadix exudes liquid and has a bumpy appearance. Crossing the collected pollen with the female flowers helps to get the best results for seed production. This is not a favored and common propagation method due to complexity.

  • Seed propagation can be favored by continual care and management.
  • Flat structures are ideally helpful for the germination of the anthurium seeds.
  • Vermiculite is the best growing medium for anthurium seed germination.
  • Slightly press the anthurium seed into the grow media.
  • Allow a minimum space of 2.5 cm between the individual seeds to allow better space for germination.
  • Cover the container with clear plastic to speed up seed germination by more conservation of moisture and heat.
  • Place the containers at room temperature to favor the germination process. The use of heat pads is a good choice in colder climatic conditions.
  • Avoid moisture build-up on the grow media as it can lead to bacterial and fungal infections and disease development.
  • Insert holes in the cover to allow movement of air for breathing and moisture evaporation.
  • Remove the cover after germination and carefully place the seedlings in the individual containers.


How to Grow Anthurium Warocqueanum by Propagation?

  • The division is the best way to propagate the Anthurium warocqueanum plant. The division is significantly easier for this plant than the other houseplants because it produces offsets and buds.
  • This plant bears tiny buds once in a while. Growers can easily find these buds around the main stem.
  • Search the buds and offshoots growing around the stems.
  • Wait until there is the appearance of one to two leaves on the buds.
  • The development of aerial roots can be observed after the growth of one to two leaves.
  • These aerial roots are helpful for the absorption of nutrients for their survival.
  • There is no need to trim this structure from the main stem.
  • Use clean and sterilized scissors to cut these buds from the parent plant.
  • Prune the offshoots at the growing roots.
  • Place these offshoots in a container and fill the pot with good quality grow media or potting mix.
  • Place the newly growing plant in a humid and warm place.
  • Water this plant to avoid irrigation stress.

Propagating the Anthurium Plants from Stem Cuttings

  • The plant can also be propagated easily by using stem cuttings.
  • The clinging tendrils are essentially helpful for its propagation due to nutrient absorption capacity.
  • Its aerial roots have an excellent tendency to adjust to the underground parts with great ease.
  • Slices of stalks without leaves and roots can also be used to grow a full anthurium plant.
  • The stem cutting after immediate plantation may look fragile due to poor nutrient provision, less sunlight, soil aeration, temperature, humidity, and water. The health and vigor of stems are greatly improved with time.
  • Growers can also chop the stems into specific bits. This practice is only helpful in the presence of the right environmental conditions. Chopping in the variable temperature and unfavorable conditions can cause reduced survival chances and vigor.
  • The survival chances of stems and cuttings are greatly enhanced by the presence of more roots, leaves, and nodes on the cuttings.
  • A larger parent plant can also be used for further growth after removing all of its parts.
  • If an old anthurium plant is not flowering for a long time it can also be revitalized by proper trimming.
  • Younger anthurium plants can be fairly propagated from the healthier cuttings as long as there are nodes in the cuttings.
  • Collecting all necessary material before cutting stems and placing it in the containers is essentially important to avoid stress.
  • Use pruning shears to take cuttings and having a specific set of shears is greatly important to avoid any discomfort.
  • Use a disinfectant and clean water to wash the scissors or shears.
  • Use of a sharp knife is also a good approach if shears or scissors are not available.
  • Sterilization of shears, knives, and scissors helps to reduce the chances of microbial contamination, insect pest attack, and diseases. Moreover, the chances of further spread of the problem are also reduced.
  • Avoid the use of concentrated disinfectants and properly dilute them by adding distilled water or good quality tap water.
  • Carefully cut the stem in a single attempt and avoid multiple cuts on a single stem.
  • Clean the obtained cutting and prune it properly.
  • Clinging leaf-type husks are present on the stem and are known as stipules. The function of these structures is only the protection of emerging leaves.
  • Stipules are dead after taking the cutting from the parent plants and the wise practice is to remove these useless structures. Clearing stipules helps growers to see the cuts easily.
  • Prune shriveled and yellow, or brown leaves as these leaves will not serve the purpose for further growth.
  • Also, cut the flowers from the obtained stem. Flowers take all energy, nutrients, and water from the parent plant and the stems. Cutting these flowers helps plants to focus on new growth and development.
  • Carefully cut the stem into different sections but make sure that all parts have a minimum of about two nodes.
  • More aerial roots are sprouted on the longer segments. Thus there are more chances of survival and growth.
  • Never remove the healthy leaves from the stems as the presence of these leaves helps for further growth.
  • Apply rooting hormone on the cut ends of the stems as it encourages better and more effective rooting.
  • Growers can also apply a brush of cinnamon on the cutting if a rooting hormone is not available. Cinnamon has good antimicrobial properties and helps and helps to protect the cuttings from fungal and bacterial infections.
  • Place the cuttings in the containers and allow rooting in the ideal environmental conditions.
  • 1-2 nodes on the cuttings must be aboveground to support leaf growth.
  • Place plastic bags over the cuttings to enhance humidity in its surroundings.
  • The use of transparent plastic tubs provided with the locking lids is also helpful for enhancing moisture.

Potting and Repotting Anthurium Warocqueanum.

Growers can easily repot these plants in orchid baskets and regular pots. Orchid baskets have more holes and help for better survival and development of epiphytes. The use of a wooden basket is also a good approach to support its growth and development.

Most of the growers are also using clay pots because these are easy to manage and care for. Growers should do at least 1-2 holes in its bottom to ensure good drainage for avoiding root rotting and stress on the growing plants. Clay pots or terracotta pots are porous and allow good water retention. These plants are essentially important for improving drainage and circulation.

Anthurium Warocqueanum Common Problems and How to Treat

Mushy Roots

The presence of mushy roots can kill the plant and the problem can be resolved by removing these roots. Take sterilized scissors, and shears to cut the mushy, black, and softer roots. Wash all healthy growing roots using clean tap water to get better growth. Changing the previously used and infected substrate and grow media is also helpful to get rid of the mushy roots.

Root rotting pathogens are commonly present in the walls of growing pots, and soil. The problem of these pathogens can be reduced by proper disinfection and sterilization. Also, sterilize the scissors after use to protect against further spread of the problems.

Leaf Yellowing

Leaf yellowing of plants is caused due to various possible reasons. The most common reason for yellowing includes stress, insufficient humidity, aging, and unsuitable watering. Generally, the yellowing of older leaves is a natural process and there is no need to worry about this color change. Overwatering is also a common reason for leaf yellowing and problems can be easily avoided by monitoring the watering schedule.

Foliage Damage

Foliage is anthurium gets damaged due to various biotic and abiotic stresses and the problem can be resolved by identifying the root cause of the problem. Usually, the foliage is also damaged due to mishandling and sudden changes in environmental conditions.

Providing all inputs in a balanced way and maintaining the right conditions around the growing zone helps to reduce the chances of foliage damage. Early detection of the problem is greatly helpful to bear less severe consequences in the later stages.

Leaf Holes

The presence of holes in the anthurium leaves is due to pest attacks, lower humidity, and an irregular watering schedule. The insect’ feeds on its leaves and saps and may cause hole formation, leaf yellowing, and curling. Other than these leaf holes in the anthurium may also be caused due to higher temperatures, bacterial wilt, root rotting, and bacterial blights. This problem can be easily avoided by using sharp blasts and direct water sprays in the infected areas. The insect’s pests fall off due to water pressure and thus plants are protected from their feeding aftereffects.

Horticultural oil sprays and soap sprays are also available in the market and growers can also prepare these at home. Home-based formulations are safer and most effective than the formulations being sold in the market. Moreover, the use of manual, mechanical, and organic practices is greatly recommended than synthetic chemicals.

These chemicals contaminate the soil, and environment and pose serious threats to pets, children, and beneficial insects. Organic practices are also helpful to conserve biodiversity, ecosystem functioning, and beneficial creatures for gardening and production.

Brown Spots on the Plant Foliage

The appearance of brown patches on the anthurium plants is due to prolonged exposure to the sunlight. While underwatering and insufficient nutrition is also a major reason for brown spots on its foliage. Regularly check the growing plants for the presence of these spots and adjust the fertilization and watering schedule according to the needs of growing plants.

The direct exposure of plants to sunlight is a leading cause of this problem. Growers can easily resolve this problem by placing the plant in partial shade conditions. The provision of indirect and filtered light is also important to overcome this issue.

If the sun is not a major reason for this problem, check the nutrition, and watering factors to minimize the problems. This plant grows well in humid areas and moist soils. Avoid complete drying of the soil and other grow media as it can cause brown patches on the plants.

Correction of the watering schedule and fertilization according to prevailing climatic conditions and needs of plants (age-wise, and variety dependent) can reduce the problem on a sustainable basis. The use of organic fertilizers than synthetic chemicals is the best way to improve biodiversity in soil that in turn improves all its physical, chemical, and biological properties.

Pest Problems

The most common insect pests on the anthurium are scales, spider mites, aphids, thrips, and mealybugs. The problem of insect pest attacks can be avoided by regular monitoring and integrated pest management practices. Some of these pests produce white-colored web-like dust while others produce transparent and sticky fluids.

So even if some insects are not visible their presence can be detected and identified by these attributes. There is no need to worry about mild attacks as this problem can be reduced by water sprays, and rubbing alcohol dipped swabs on the leaves and foliage. The use of soap water formulations is also a good approach to get rid of pest populations.


Is Anthurium warocqueanum toxic to pets?

This plant contains specific compounds that are toxic to the pets so growers should not allow the pets to touch anthurium. There is no exemption of allowing contact with the specific plant part because all of its parts are toxic due to the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. The ingestion of this plant can irritate the digestive system, throat, and mouth.

The contact and consumption of these crystals can also cause skin irritation and itching. Wearing gardening gloves is helpful to minimize the chances of irritation on the skin. It is also important to note that the contact of this plant with the children is not even a good practice and they should not be allowed to touch this plant.

Is it possible to mist the plants for promoting their growth and development?

These plants are native to the rainforests and survive well in the presence of humid conditions. While increasing humidity is a major concern for houseplants. So many growers are asking about the possibility of misting around these plants. Slight misting with the rainwater or good quality tap water is helpful to improve its growth.

The use of contaminated and poor-quality water may cause foliage burning, insect pests attack, and disease development. Therefore, only good quality and clean water should be used for the misting purpose. Growers must use devices for measuring the humidity in the surroundings as sudden rise and fall and major fluctuations may kill even the vigorous plants.

The Hibiscus tree belongs to the flowering plants’ genus and Malvaceae family including more than 200 varieties of which some are edible, and some are not. It is native to the tropical and warm temperate regions and is being cultivated as an ornamental plant due to its beautiful flowers. Hibiscus leaves are smooth and lobed and are covered in plant hairs known as trichomes. The flowers can be born both in the form of flowering clusters and singly. A whorl of leaf-type bracts surrounding the sepals is common in the hibiscus tree. Typically, its stamens are fused into a specific tube. Hibiscus and other members of this genus have characteristically capsule fruits and spiny pollens. This tree does not require much care and management for growth, development, and flowering. Growers can get good growth by the optimal care and provision of the right climatic conditions.

How do grow the Hibiscus Tree? 


Hibiscus tree grows well in the USDA hardiness zone of 9-11 and some hibiscus varieties can tolerate little fluctuation in the prevailing climatic conditions. Hardy species can grow well in the 3-8 zones as well but these species shed their leaves in the fall season. The leaves appear back in the spring but the leaves and flowers can stay all year round in properly managed indoor growing conditions.

Hardy Species of Hibiscus Tree

Hardy species of this tree can be grown as perennial plants in all regions of the United States. Hardy plants go dormant in the cold and winter seasons and their normal growth is resumed in the spring. Growing hibiscus trees as perennial plants in the gardens and growing spaces help to boost the microbial biodiversity in the soil, attract pollinators, and prevent erosion. Thereby it significantly improves the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the soil than in turn supports better plant growth and production. All these hardy plant species thrive well in partial shade and full sun conditions and can easily adapt to the wide range of stressful conditions and growing mediums.

  • Hibiscus syriacus

It is also known as the rose of Sharon and is a remarkable tree with lush growing habits. It is native to some Asian regions and is well known for its varied and palleted blossoms with ruched, and double-layer petals. Scarlet and swap rose mallows can adapt to a wide range of soils including wetlands, dry, and nutrient-depleted soils. It can easily tolerate soil and air pollution, so it is an ideal choice for urban gardens and polluted sites. Modern cultivars have broad variations in the scale ranging from dwarf varieties (6-10 feet) to tall varieties (8-12 feet). Dwarf varieties are ideal choices for container gardening and indoor growing in space-limited conditions.

  • Hibiscus coccineus

This plant is native to the Eastern swampy regions of the United States and can grow 3-4 feet wide, and 6-10 feet in length. It is well known for its crimson unique blossoms and is easily recognizable due to its pointed petals. It’s compound and palmate leaves echos the specific star-shaped appearance of the flowers with finely toothed and skinny edges.

  • Hibiscus moscheutos

This species can grow 3-4 feet wide and 6-10 feet tall. Its striking flowers can reach the size of diner plates. Its flowers have pink, red, and white colors and sometimes these flowers have bicolor blends. Its leaves are velvety and broad and have toothed edges. It is native to the wetlands and survives well in the full sunny conditions and the moist soil. Growers can also observe good growth in the less favorable conditions as well by providing the right care and management.

Tropical Hibiscus Species

  • Hibiscus rosa sinensis

This specie produces glossy leaves with juicy blossoms bursting in the starburst shades. Chinese or tropical hibiscus is an amazing choice for the growers seeking colorful and showy statements. This plant can be easily grown indoors as a houseplant, but a provision of bright light, fertilizers, and water are greatly important to get good growth and development.

  • Cranberry Hibiscus

It is also known as red leaf hibiscus and is a popular ornamental plant due to its floral design and attractive foliage. It is known to be native to the East African regions and is well known for its palmate and wine-colored leaves that resemble Japanese maples. This plant produces pink flowers during the summer season in tropical areas. It rarely blooms in the annual growing habits, but its foliage also serves good ornamental functions. It produces stunning flowers in the fall and summer that turn bronze-colored in the autumn season. Its leaves have a tangy flavor and are edible and younger leaves also retain the color after cooking. Typically, this tree can grow 24-30 inches in width and 3-5 feet in length.

  • Roselle Hibiscus

This hibiscus plant is not much common in the United States but is gaining significant popularity over time. Roselle is being grown more for its calyx and less for the flowers. Its sepals are succulent and provide an envelope to the fertilized edible seeds. These are rich in vitamin C and have a delightful zingy flavor. It can grow to a length of 3-5 feet in the gardens and produces burgundy veins and stems with cream-colored flowers and emerald foliage. This plant is also available in the farmer’s market in the late fall and summer. Creative farmers sell decorated calyx studded stems with textural elements. Its tea is also used as a traditional household staple, and traditional beverage.


Hibiscus trees can tolerate a great range of soils and can be easily grown in both wet and dry conditions. Better hibiscus growth can be observed in the well-draining and moist soils. The addition of organic matter, compost, peat, and muck soil is greatly helpful to improve the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the soil. Different types of growing media are also available in the market and gardening stores and growers can purchase any according to the requirements. Making compost at home and adding organic matter to the soil is a cheaper alternative as this plant does not die in the absence of exactly the right type of soil.


Hibiscus tree grows best in the slightly acidic soils between the pH range of 6.5-6.8. Growers can easily change the soil pH to this range by the addition of different amendments and grow mixes. Determination of soil pH is a prior requirement before adding any amendment. Soil pH meters are available in the market and growers can check pH at home. Moreover, they can also consult the local agricultural services providers, soil testing laboratories, and agriculture extension workers for soil pH testing.


Hibiscus trees grow best in full sunny and partial shade conditions. A minimum of about 2 hours of sunlight exposure is a must for blooming stimulation. Insufficient exposure to the light causes bushy growth and less to no blooming. Its exposure to sunlight should be reduced in the presence of higher temperatures. The watering needs of the growing hibiscus plants goes up in the presence of high temperature and more sunlight. Therefore optimization of these three factors is a must approach to get good growth and development.

More exposure of plants to direct and scorching sunlight can cause sunburn and chlorophyll destruction in the leaves. Although this plant can easily adapt to a wide range of growing conditions, more variation can cause white sunburn effects. This plant produces more buds in the summer heat provided by the better watering scheduling.


Hibiscus plants can grow in depleted soils but respond well to the addition of organic and inorganic fertilizers. Consistent and planned fertilizer application according to the soil nutrient status and growing needs helps to produce better growth, development, buds’ formation, and flowering. The use of inorganic fertilizers is not a good approach as these synthetic chemicals pose threats to beneficial insects, soil biota, and the environment.


The problem of weeds and soil drying around the hibiscus trees can be reduced by mulching. Mulching also protects the roots of growing plants from the rain splashes and harsh elements. Organic mulching is much more effective than inorganic mulching as the decomposition of organic materials constantly releases nutrients to the soil. Moreover, mulching is also helpful for temperature regulation and conserving soil moisture contents. Mulching to the depth of about 2-3 inches is recommended for supporting the hibiscus growth and development.


Regular watering is required for better growth and flowering of the hibiscus tree. Watering is a simple but challenging task as it requires the right and oriented adjustment according to the prevailing situation and microclimate. Hibiscus is a water-loving tree, but growers should be careful about the quality of water. The presence of contaminants and pollutants can cause adverse effects on the roots and foliage of growing plants. Water the plants when the upper few inches of the soil are getting dried and don’t allow the water to stand in the soil. The watering requirements of the plants are variable according to prevailing conditions so the watering schedule should be decided according to plant needs during a specific time of the year. Overwatering can cause root rotting, and dried soils cause insect pest attacks. Therefore, adjustment of the watering schedule helps reduce the disease occurrence and insect pest attack.


The Hibiscus plant cannot tolerate the colder temperature and requires a warm temperature for bud formation and flowering. Growers must maintain optimal temperature conditions in both indoor and outdoor conditions. Colder temperature causes dropping off of the buds and reduced flowering. Even though this plant can adapt to a wide range of prevailing conditions it cannot withstand sudden extreme changes in humidity and temperature. Never place the plants near the entryways, TVs, radiators, and drafty areas.


Hibiscus tree grows well in humid conditions and growers should maintain good humidity in both outdoor and indoor growing conditions. Misting and water spraying is a good approach to improve humidity in outdoor conditions while the use of humidifiers is the best approach for indoor growing. Alternatively, growers can also place gravel-filled trays below the hibiscus pots. Watering these gravel-filled trays also helps to improve the humidity level in the surroundings.


Regular pruning is required to maintain the shape, remove the dead parts, and encourage good quality blooms. Hibiscus trees can tolerate heavy pruning so growers must prune all larger and smaller plants. Removal of flowering buds along with the foliage causes the plant to bloom after a long time. Selective trimming of the leggy growth is recommended for protecting the rest of the plant. Pruning plant in the late winter is a good approach to encourage bushy growth.

How to grow the Hibiscus Tree from seeds?

Hardy hibiscus varieties are easy to grow from the seeds and vigorous germination can be assured by following the right care and management. While Chinese hibiscus has slowed growing habits and growers should start it with seedlings and nursery plants. All hibiscus plants can be easily started from stem cuttings but the new growth from healthy seeds assures good and vigorously growing seedlings. The outer layer on the hibiscus seeds can slow down the germination process and the problem can be reduced by soaking the seeds overnight. Nicking the seeds with the knife and sandpaper also helps to speed up the germination process. Better germination requires optimal temperature in the soil and surroundings so the use of heat maps is a good idea for the colder regions.

How to grow the Hibiscus Tree by Propagation?

  • Propagation by Cutting

The Hibiscus plant can be easily propagated by using stem cuttings. The selection of good quality and disease-free plants is the best approach to ensure better growth and development. Propagating this plant by using stem cutting is an ideal choice for tropical and hardy hibiscus species.

  • Mid-summer is the best propagation time for the hibiscus plant.
  • Select the branches with a green and smoother growing pattern.
  • Look for the disease-free stems having dark green, smooth, and plenty of leaves.
  • Taking cuttings from the darker green, and slighter brown stems is also fine.
  • Avoid propagation in the winter and autumn as propagation in this time takes a significantly longer time.
  • Avoid taking hibiscus cuttings during the late summer conditions as it can cause compromised growth and development.
  • The rooting of the woodier stems is harder and taking cuttings in the late summer causes cuttings to become woodier.
  • Use a sharp knife or scissors to take the cutting and avoid placing the cuttings on the contaminated floor.
  • Avoid taking numerous cuttings from single-parent plants as it can affect the growth pattern of the parent plants.
  • Taking 5-6 cuttings is enough for one-time propagation.
  • Wipe the pruning scissors and shears with a damp, clean cloth to prevent rusting and bacterial attack.
  • Remove all leaves on the cutting and allow only 2-4 leaves to stay.
  • If the remaining leaves have a large size then cut them in the horizontal pattern to avoid wilting.
  • Never pull the leaves from the cuttings as it can damage the stem fibers.
  • Cut the bottom of the stem diagonally to encourage better growth.
  • Cutting through the eye is even more helpful to support good growth. Eyes are the points where leaves emerge from the stems and these points have natural hormones to boost the growth.
  • Take the cuttings from the softwoods or new growth.
  • Cutting should have 4-6 inches of length to support better rooting and growth.
  • Trim the bottom of the cutting just below the node where the leaf was growing.
  • Dip the cutting in the good quality rooting hormone to encourage good rooting.
  • Place the cutting in good quality and well-drained soil.
  • Prepare to grow media by adding perlite and potting soil in the 50-50 ratio.
  • Use of organic materials, and compost and thoroughly water the rooting soil.
  • Stick the soil around the cutting to support good rooting.
  • Place the plastic cover over this cutting but don’t allow the touch between a plastic bag and cutting leaves.
  • Slightly open the plastic bag or make some holes in this bag to allow proper airflow and ventilation.
  • Ensure wetness of the soil or grow media until the cuttings are properly rooted.
  • Usually, the cuttings are rooted within eight weeks. And can be placed in the bigger pots after this time.
  • The success rate of propagating the tropical hibiscus is less than the hardy hibiscus. So, use multiple cuttings for efficient propagation.
  • Air Layering 

Air layering is an efficient way to propagate the hibiscus tree. In this process, the existing stem is used for growing the new plant.

  • Cut the bark of the disease-free stem into two different points at a distance of about 1 cm.
  • Remove the outer bark and expose the white wooden layer.
  • Apply rooting hormone on the exposed wooden parts.
  • Moisten the sphagnum moss and pack it around the cut area.
  • Use clear, and contaminant-free plastic for this purpose.
  • Seal this plastic specifically at the bottom and top of the cutting with tape to minimize the entry of air in the cut stem.
  • Cover the plastic with an aluminum foil layer followed by wrapping it with brown paper.
  • A healthy rooting system will be evident inside the plastic after a few weeks.
  • Separate the new plant from the existing plant and place it in the pot for further growth and development.


  • Grafting

Grafting is done by combining the plant rootstock having good resistance to the diseases and sticking it with the more attractive and less hardy specimen.

  • Grafting requires great care and attention and is a difficult task for inexperienced gardeners.
  • The top of the grafted plant is known as scion. Cut the rootstock stem in such a way that it can easily accept the scion stem.
  • Seal both these parts with the tape and allow good bonding. After that rooted part can be cut and used for the new growth.


Common Problems of the Hibiscus Tree and How to Treat

The hibiscus tree is adaptable to various fluctuating environmental conditions and stresses. The problem of insect pests and diseases is not severely significant for this plant. Preventing the disease spread and insect pest attack is greatly helpful to boost sustainable growth, and flowering.


Root rotting due to overwatering is a common fungal disease that greatly affects the growth of the hibiscus trees. Rotting of hibiscus leaves also causes leaf yellowing, development of leaf spots, and leaf fall. The problem of root rotting can be avoided by ensuring good drainage and improving the biological health of the soil.


Usual suspects of this plant are common insect pests, and their population can be controlled by using manual, mechanical, and chemical approaches.

  • Spider Mites

The appearance of webs and silky threads on the lower sides of plant leaves is a classic indication of the presence of spider mites. Sometimes these mites also appear as red dots. The problem of spider mites on the hibiscus tree can be controlled with warm water treatment. Early detection of pests is greatly helpful to control this problem on a sustainable basis. Usually, the yellowing of leaves is an indication of weather changes but if the yellowing remains after weather changes it may be an indication of spider mites’ presence. Their populations can also be detected by using microscopes and magnifying glasses. The process of reducing spider mites on the hibiscus plant is as follows.

  • Wrap the hibiscus-containing container or pot with aluminum foil.
  • Use good quality tape for securing the foil.
  • Carefully lay the plant on a side in the clean bathtub.
  • Fill the tub with warm water and add some liquid soap. It helps to make insecticidal formulations.
  • Leave the hibiscus plant in this tub for 60 minutes.
  • Drain the water from the bathtub after this time.
  • Allow the plant to stand in the tub and carefully remove the aluminum foil to drain the excess water.
  • This warm water treatment kills all the spider mites and their eggs.
  • Leaf drop is evident to some extent after this soaking method. So, don’t worry about the minor problem.
  • Scale

Scales can cause significant damage to the growing hibiscus tree and their populations can be eliminated by using a well-prepared mixture of alcohol and baby oil. Apply this mixture with a toothbrush and scrub the pests. Hose down the plant for about thirty minutes and keep the plant away from the sun during this treatment. Allow the plant to stay in the shade for longer periods. This application is ideally helpful on cloudy days for the removal of insect pests.

  • Hibiscus Thrips

Thrips are of smaller sizes, and it is very difficult to identify their presence. These can be seen as smaller dots on the lower sides of the leaves. Thrips also fly around the plant and crawl on the foliage. Early detection is critically important for effective control and better management.

  • Mealybugs

These are white-colored crawling insects and leave behind white fuzzy substances. The use of systemic insecticides, soap sprays, neem oils, and essential oils is greatly helpful to control the mealybug infestations on the hibiscus trees.

  • Aphids

These are pear-shaped tiny insects under the hibiscus foliage and are of different colors such as yellow, gray, white, green, and brown. The use of organic sprays and manual control is greatly helpful to resolve the problem on a sustainable basis.

  • Whiteflies

Hordes of whiteflies can be seen swarming on the hibiscus foliage. The problem of whiteflies on the hibiscus trees can be controlled in the following way.

  • Regularly inspect the leaf surfaces and foliage and carefully identify the stationary nymphs, and whitefly eggs.
  • Use clippers for pruning the infected leaves. Carefully dispose of the infected parts to avoid further spread.
  • The use of a strong water blast with the spraying hose is helpful to control whiteflies.
  • Use this water blast at least once a week to get rid of whiteflies.
  • Spray insecticidal soaps, neem oils, and horticultural oils on the plants especially underside the leaves.
  • This causes suffocation for the nymphs and significantly inhibits their growth.
  • The use of chemical insecticides is also beneficial, but it causes problems for the environment and beneficial insects.
  • Growers can also trap the whiteflies by using the sticky yellow traps.
  • Apply liquid dishwashing detergent and petroleum jelly on the bright yellow painted cards.
  • Place the cards towards the infected hibiscus tree to attract the insects.


Potting and Repotting Hibiscus 

  • Carefully check the repotting requirements of the growing hibiscus by observing the drainage holes of the containers for the projecting roots.
  • Loosen the plant in the pot and lift it in the upward direction to observe the roots in a better way.
  • The plant needs repotting if its roots are making tight pot-shaped circles.
  • Select a new container or pot with the same diameter and height to keep the present size of the hibiscus.
  • Growers can also select larger containers to allow larger and wider growth of hibiscus trees.
  • Must provide drainage holes or channels in the containers to avoid root rotting and saturation.
  • Add two inches of good quality soilless growing media in the container and moisten it with water.
  • Use good growing media with fine drainage capacity and organic matter contents.
  • Potting soil and mixes for the hanging plants are ideal growing media for hibiscus repotting.
  • Loosen the tree in its first container and gently lift the plant.
  • Gently shake it to remove the soil from the older growing medium.
  • Slice the roots with a sharp knife for untangling if the roots are winded tightly.
  • Trim the broken roots to avoid any problem.
  • Place the tree deeper in the new container than the older one.
  • Thoroughly water the growing media in the new container to maintain good moistness.
  • Add mulch or organic material on the top few inches of the container to support the slow and consistent release of nutrients.
  • Keep the container or pot in the bright direct sunlight for some days and then place it back to its original place.


Is a hibiscus tree an indoor or outdoor plant?

Hibiscus trees can be grown in both indoor and outdoor conditions. Outdoor growing plants can easily tolerate fluctuating prevailing conditions and growing mediums. This plant grows and blooms well in well-managed indoor conditions.

Where is the best place to plant hibiscus?

The best place for growing the hibiscus tree is a spot where it can receive proper sunlight and partial shade. The sites having fertile and well-drained soils are also helpful to support better growth and development. The plant can be grown at any place in indoor conditions where growers can manage all growing requirements according to its needs.

What do you do with a hibiscus tree in the winter?

During the winter conditions keep the plant in the unheated basement or garage where the optimal temperature is maintained. Sunlight and warmth can break the dormancy of the hibiscus early. Supply enough moisture during the winter season to support its dormancy. Increase watering frequency and intensity gradually and improve the exposure of the plant to the sunlight by the end of the winter season. Do not fertilize the plant in the winter. Avoid placing the plants near to the heaters and bursts of hot air as it can directly kill the plants.

How to revive a dying hibiscus?

Growers can revive the dying hibiscus plants by using the following care and management measures.

  • Keep soil moist and avoid saturation.
  • Mist the leaves of growing hibiscus to increase humidity levels in the surroundings.
  • Ensure at least 5-6 hours of exposure of the hibiscus plant to the sunlight.
  • Replace the poor soil with well-drained and fertile soils.
  • Avoid the complete saturation around the rhizosphere to avoid root rotting.
  • Avoid windy, and dry conditions in the hibiscus surroundings.
  • Avoid overwatering and underwatering.
  • Fertilize plants according to the requirements of different growing stages and nutrient provision capacity of growing media.
  • Avoid over usage of synthetic chemicals to minimize the stress on plants.
  • Use all-purpose fertilizers to provide all macronutrients and micronutrients to the growing hibiscus plants.

A Comprehensive Guide About Care and Management of Monstera Deliciosa, the Swiss Cheese Plant

Monstera deliciosa is also known as the Swiss cheese plant and has dark green, glossy, and huge leaves. It has a woody vine and is known to be native to the tropical areas of south and north America. It can grow to a height of 70 feet in its natural growing environment. Monstera deliciosa is an easy-to-grow houseplant in both indoor and outdoor growing conditions. This is an easy-to-grow plant both for experienced gardeners and newbies as it needs minimal care. Thus, this article is focused to discuss the growing guidelines, care, and management for the Swiss cheese plants.


Swiss cheese plant grows well in the USDA hardiness zone 10-12. Growers can also grow it in the other zones by the provision of the right growing conditions and environment.


Swiss cheese plants grow well in well-drained and slightly acidic soils. Growers can ensure the best growth of monstera deliciosa by maintaining the soil pH in the range of 5.5-6.5. Soils in the different growing regions have different pH levels and nutritional profiles. It is always possible to maintain the desired pH, soil properties, and texture by the use of different amendments and organic materials. Growers must test the properties of soil and grow media before adding amendments because the addition of the right amendment is greatly helpful to get the best yield.

Different kinds of growing media are available in the nurseries and gardening stores to support the growth of monstera deliciosa. Growers can also make their own grow media by the addition of bark pines, compost, perlite, coco coir, and peat moss. The use of organic fertilizers, well-prepared compost, animal debris, and plant debris helps to improve soil drainage, fertility, and water holding capacity. The addition of composts and organic amendments helps to improve plant growth and development by improving the physical-chemical, and biological properties of the soil.


Monstera plants grow well in the indirect and bright sunlight and ideally can be placed near the bright windows where there is no direct interaction of sunrays and leaves. Poor or extra exposure to sunlight can cause negative consequences on its growth and development. The growing Swiss cheese plant requires a minimum of about 4-6 hours of sunlight exposure.

Therefore, growers must provide light to the growing plants by the natural source of artificial means. Growers must provide light for 10-12 hours if natural sunlight is not available in a specific region or growing space. The direct contact of plant surface with the artificial lights must be avoided as it can cause foliage burning and the death of plants.


Water only the upper few inches of the soil or grow media to keep the soil and growing media moist. Enhance the watering intervals especially when good humidity is maintained around its surroundings and growing environment. These plants grow well in moist soil, but it is important to avoid soaking as it can cause root rotting and killing of plant parts.

Testing the soil moisture contents by inserting the fingers in the soil is a good approach to check watering requirements. Irrigating only the top inches of soil will not always be enough and growers must apply deep watering when the soil is completely dried. For this purpose, it is important to irrigate the plants until water starts coming out of the containers from the drainage holes.


Monstera cheese plants thrive well in the humid and hot climates and produce fruits in the subtropical regions and hot growing conditions only. Ideally, this plant grows well in the temperature range between 50–65-degree Fahrenheit.

This plant has no tolerance towards the freezing temperature and cold temperature can directly kill the stems and leaves. Typical fluctuations in the home temperatures are acceptable for the Swiss cheese plants but sudden drops and raise in the temperature must be avoided for ideal growth.


Swiss cheese plant grows well in warm and humid conditions and growers must maintain good humidity in its surrounding. Best growth can be observed when the humidity is more than 50%. It is also possible to keep this plant in the bathroom. Humidity drops below 40% can cause adverse effects on the growing plants.

The use of humidifiers and water sprays are also good options to increase humidity levels in indoor growing environments. There are different possible ways to improve humidity in the surroundings of Swiss cheese plants. Some of the effective methods for this purpose include as follows.

Water feature: It can be a small fountain or a pebble tray that can easily increase the humidity levels for the growing plants. The water evaporation can improve humidity for the growing plants, but this is not an effective approach for improving humidity in the whole room.

Enclosures: Humidity levels can be easily maintained in enclosed structures such as terrariums, cabinets, and greenhouses. This is an especially good option for extremely dry, and hot regions.

Grouping of plants: Growers can easily maintain good moisture and humidity by growing plants in the form of groups and structures. Moreover, the clusters of plants are also helpful for sharing the humidity for better growth and development.

Misting: It is also an effective method to improve humidity in indoor growing conditions. However, its beneficial effects can only stay for a few minutes after evaporation. Misting also offers calming effects on the plants and helps to remove dirt, and impurities on the surface of growing plants.

Humidifiers: The use of these devices is essentially helpful to improve humidity in the whole room and growing structure. Placing humidifiers next to the growing plants is more helpful for improving humidity.

How to Grow the Swiss Cheese Plant from Seed

Swiss cheese plants can be easily started from the seeds but the provision of the right growing conditions such as warmth, humidity, and light is a must for best germination. Germination of monstera seeds is the easiest task but caring for the plant to produce good quality seeds requires more care and management. The freshly produced seeds of the Swiss cheese plant are light brown, yellow, and green. It is greatly difficult to keep these seeds fresh but the excessive loss of moisture from seeds must be avoided.

Ideally, these seeds can be stored in the sphagnum moss in the clean fridge. Sowing these seeds within one week after receiving them is an ideal way to get healthy and vigorous production. Little drying of these seeds is also fine and dried seeds may have a wrinkled appearance with tan, brown color. Wrinkling of these seeds is an indication of delayed sowing time but the little delay is fine as it does not affect viability to a greater extent.

Presoaking is greatly recommended for fresh seeds, but it is not a must approach for all seeds. Add some warm water in a container or jar and place the seeds in it for 24-48 hours. This helps to break the outer seed coating and makes easy germination by rehydrating the seeds. Growers can set up the seeds in different possible ways and the use of mini-greenhouse systems, zip lock bags, and paper towel methods are most helpful for better germination.

Placing the seeds a few inches in the grow media helps to ensure proper exposure for light and aeration. The use of specific growing media and organic soil is greatly helpful for better aeration, water holding capacity, and easy emergence. While the use of clay soil, and the growing media having some compaction and cemented layer can cause difficulty for seedling germination.

Usually, seeds can germinate in 2-4 weeks by the provision of the right management conditions. Delay in germination may happen due to the use of poor quality and contaminated grow media, fungal infections, and unfavorable environmental conditions. Therefore, growers should monitor all the beneficial and harmful factors affecting germination and seedling vigor. Acclimatization of seedlings to fresh air immediately after emergence is also important to improve the chances of their survival and further development.

Paper Towel Method

  • This is the easiest method to support the better growth of Swiss cheese plants.
  • Growers only need a plate, spray bottle, water, paper towel, and monstera seeds.
  • Spread the seeds in a single layer specifically on the paper towel.
  • Overlap the towel on the Swiss cheese seeds until they are covered in two layers.
  • Place the paper towel on a clean plate and spritz it properly until the seeds are moist.
  • Put this plate in a bright area for sunlight exposure but avoid the prolonged placement as it can cause slower germination and less vigorous seedlings.
  • Daily check the seeds and spritz them on the paper towel.
  • Seed germination can be evident after two to four days of sowing.
  • Plant the seedlings in the contaminant-free and good quality grow media to get the best support.
  • Avoid both biotic and abiotic stresses for the seedlings as these are more prone to compromised growth at this stage.

Soaking Method

  • The soaking method is the simplest method to support the germination of monstera deliciosa seeds.
  • Soak the healthy and well-treated seeds in clean water for 10-25 hours to support easy and fast germination.
  • Fill the container with warm water and place the seeds in it.
  • Never leave the seeds in the water for more than 48 hours.
  • Keep the container in a sunny area but avoid placing it in the direct sunlight.
  • Growers can observe seedling emergence after two to three weeks of sowing.
  • Soaking is helpful to break the outer seed coat and reduce the germination time.

Seed Germination in Mini Greenhouse

  • Growers only need peat pods and plastic cover for this method of seed germination.
  • Soak the seeds in the peat pods and plant them directly to the peat moss.
  • Growers can also purchase the mini greenhouse container from the market. These containers are provided plastic cover or lid that helps to improve humidity in the surroundings of seedlings.
  • This is an easy method as there is no need to mix the substrate and prepare to grow media.
  • There is an individual pod for each seedling and the whole structure can be easily managed.
  • However, the size of pods could be a concern because seedlings grow quickly and require immediate transplantation for good root development and plant growth.
  • The presence of a net around the roots can cause problems for root development. Therefore, removal of this net is a must approach to ensure proper growth.
  • It is also possible to place the seeds directly in containers or pots. The use of good quality grow media and organic soil is essentially helpful to promote growth and development on a sustainable basis.

How to Grow the Swiss Cheese Plant by Propagation

Propagation in Water and Soil

  • Monstera deliciosa can be easily propagated by the stem cuttings because rooting of its cuttings is easiest than seed germination.
  • Take cuttings from healthy and mature plants to get good propagation results.
  • It is possible to take small multiple cuttings having one to two leaves with the nodes or take full cutting having four to five leaves, one vine, and one node.
  • Use sharp, and clean shears and scissors to assure the health and safety of the parent plant.
  • Thoroughly clean the cutting with soap water or rub it with the alcohol.
  • Directly cut below the aerial root or the node.
  • Cut each node and leaf into individual segments on any side of the aerial root or node.
  • The cutting can be placed both in the soil and water for rooting development.
  • Dipping the obtained cuttings in the rooting hormone is also a good choice to improve rooting chances. Although this is not a must practice but can improve the survival and development chances by multiple times.
  • Allow the drying out or healing of the cuts in the obtained cutting before water submersion. This healing process is not too long, and it takes only a few minutes for drying.
  • Trim the aerial roots or fold them carefully at the bottom of the vessel.
  • Properly arrange the stems in the vessel or container to allow enough room for rooting development.
  • Pour the water in the container until the ends and roots are properly covered.
  • Place the container in a bright location but avoid direct exposure to the sunlight.
  • Change the container water after every three to six days for good growth.
  • Apply liquid fertilizers in the optimal amount in case of nutritional deficiencies.
  • The propagation in the soil is also similar to the water propagation but the main difference is only filling the container with the soil or water.
  • The use of organic soil, with optimal pH and good drainage, is helpful to support better rooting and development of the cutting.
  • The best advantage of using soil is that there is no need for regular replacement of growing media after a few days.
  • Furthermore, the soil is a rich source of nutrients and can provide nutrients to some extent to the growing plants even if growers forget to fertilize the plants.

Air Layering

  • Air layering is focused on growing the aerial roots into soil roots before obtaining the cutting.
  • Air layering can be done with the moss-wrapped bundles specifically around the aerial roots.
  • Guide the aerial roots in the moss or other organic media on a pole. Or place these roots in the container of water or soil.
  • It is considered a propagating method because it allows the development of the roots on the cuttings while these are still attached to the parent plant.
  • It removes the need for an unrooted propagative phase and promotes the success chances of cuttings development.
  • There are fewer chances of rotting in the air layering and plant can grow faster because it does not have to spend energy on fighting against the problems.
  • Moreover, there are significantly lower chances of node and leaf loss on the cuttings.

Potting and Repotting the Swiss Cheese Plant

Monstera deliciosa requires repotting for various possible reasons and brings multiple benefits for its growth and development. Repotting provides enough growing room for the roots of Swiss cheese plants. Growers can achieve the significant length of the monstera deliciosa plants by improving the growth of an extensive rooting system. Fresh soil is added in the containers or around the root zones during the repotting process, so it provides all essential nutrients to the plants.

Usually, the houseplants suffer from the deficiency of minerals and vitamins and these deficiencies can be greatly reduced by the addition of fresh soil during repotting. The addition of compost, organic material, peat moss, and amendments is even more helpful to improve growth. Growers can also use organic materials to improve soil fertility and nutrient profile. However, the use of synthetic fertilizers is discouraged for houseplants because it can cause environmental contamination and health hazards for pets and children.

Early summer and spring are the best time for repotting the Swiss cheese plant because plants have an active growing period at this time. Its growth is reduced during the winter season and repotting at this time can cause potential shock and damage to the health of growing plants. Sometimes growers’ weight is to see emerging roots from the containers for repotting but even if roots are not emerging in a certain period, repotting is required for replacing the old soil with the fresh one.

The diameter of the new pot should be slightly more than the old one. The new pot should be clean and free from contaminants. Drainage holes must be provided in these pots to support the efficient drainage of excessive water. Other than providing drainage holes, the use of soil with drainage properties is also important. Use of compost, organic matter, compost, coco coir, peat moss, sphagnum moss, perlite, and other amendments is greatly important to get good repotting results.

Swiss Cheese Plant Common Problems and How to Treat.

  • Insect Pest Problems

As a houseplant monstera is prone to be attacked by the common insect pests including spider mites, fungus gnats, scales, thrips, and mealybugs. Although there are fewer pest species in indoor conditions, these pests can easily move from one part to another part.

Mealybugs: The presence of mealybugs can be identified by the presence of fuzzy and sticky dots on the points where leaves are attached with the stem or on the lower sides of the leaves. These bugs suck the cell sap from the leaves and can cause significant damage to the growing plants.

Thrips: These pests can be identified by the presence of tiny, light brown insects that sticks to the veins of the leaves. They cause discoloration in the form of spots and complete removal of their populations requires great care and attention.

Spider mites: These are specks and can be easily identified from the web tails they leave on the lower sides of the roots. They pop up in the presence of dry air and can quickly infest the complete foliage.

Fungus gnats: These are smaller flies, and more damage is caused by their larvae. The larvae feed on the monstera roots and cause significant damage in search of root exudates (certain compounds released from roots of growing plants).

Scales: These are armored bugs and can stay motionlessly on the stems of plants. These pests also suck the sap from growing plants and can cause death in case of severe infestations.

  • No Splitting

No splitting in monstera deliciosa leaves is an indication that the plant is not able to reach maturity. No or less light is the major reason for no splitting and the problem can be resolved by placing the container in bright conditions. The plant does not split when it is in early growing conditions, and there is nothing to do with management and care at this time. Growers can observe intricate fenestration with time and follow the right care and management.

  • Leaf Browning

Leaf browning is a common issue in the monstera deliciosa and can be caused due to low humidity, underwatering, and overwatering. Excessive water application and retention may cause root rotting that in turn lead to the appearance of blackish or dark brown spots on its leaves. The appearance of light brown crisping is also an indication of the damaged rooting system and reduced capabilities of plants to use water.

The appearance of brown spots along with leaf curling, and drooping is an indication of underwatering. Growers can easily avoid this problem by optimizing the watering schedules according to the needs of growing plants and prevailing environmental conditions. While low humidity levels in the surroundings can also cause the appearance of crispy leaf edges and leaf browning.

  • Black Leaves

Blackening of monstera deliciosa foliage is caused due to infection, nutrient toxicity, nutrient deficiency, sunburn, diseases, and root rotting. Although diseases are uncommon in the monstera deliciosa species, unfavorable conditions may cause the development of fungal and bacterial diseases. Bacterial leaf spots can cause the development of yellow hollows and black spots. The problem of diseases can be easily resolved by the use of efficient bactericides and fungicides.

The blackening of leaves is also an indication of over or under-fertilization. Therefore, growers must optimize the application of organic and inorganic fertilizers after properly testing the nutrient status in the soil and requirements of plants. Other than blackening imbalanced nutrient application can also cause discoloration on the leaves. This plant requires good sunlight exposure for better growth and development, but prolonged exposure can cause the appearance of black spots on the leaves. So, growers must avoid the sudden harsh exposure of sunlight to the growing plants.

  • Leaf Drooping

The problem of leaf drooping in monstera deliciosa can be identified by the wilting of plants. The major reasons for leaf drooping include infestations, shock, temperature, and underwatering. The problem of leaf drooping can be avoided to a greater extent by regulating the watering schedule according to the surrounding conditions and needs of growing plants. Temperature stress is also a major reason for leaf drooping so growers must not place the monstera deliciosa plants in too cold or too hot environmental conditions.

Monstera deliciosa plants are fussy about sudden changes in the environmental conditions and growing media. Therefore, repotting can be evident after repotting as well and the plant can restore its health in a short time. However, the provision of the right and optimal growing environment is greatly important to get good growth. Overwatering, underwatering, and pest attacks can also cause leaf drooping by affecting the physiology and morphology of the roots.

  • Root Rot

Root rotting declines the overall health of the growing plant and can be caused due to low sunlight exposure, drainage problems, and overwatering. Root rotting is the most significant problem in the monstera deliciosa because it is irreversible and spread fast. It can cause the complete death of the rooting system and healthy growing plant. Growers can easily avoid the problem of root rotting by using grow media with good drainage capacity, putting drainage holes in the containers, optimizing the watering schedules and frequencies, and providing light to the growing plants by natural or artificial sources.

Usually, the symptoms of root rotting are greatly variable and can cause different effects such as leaf curling, drooping, leaf spots, blackening, browning, and yellowing. Therefore checking the watering schedule is the most important factor to minimize root rotting, drooping, browning, diseases, and insect pests attacks. Even though root rotting is irreversible damage but the extent of the problem can be minimized by timely assessment of damage, removal of infected plant parts, repotting into suitable and fresh soil, and improving the drainage capacity of the growing media. There is no need to worry about plant death even if the stems have been affected due to root rotting. The removal of these stems is helpful to minimize the damage and chances of further spread.

Where to Buy The Swiss Cheese Plant?

  • Lowes
  • Home Depot
Prices pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

What is the difference between Monsteras and Philodendrons?

Philodendron and monstera terms are interchangeably used for the plants that have major differences but have some similarities as well. For example, the Split Leaf Philodendron and Monstera Deliciosa are different plants but have similar looks at the younger stages. These plants belong to different species and genera but have the same family order, and class. Many gardening stores, nurseries, and online selling websites are categorizing the plants with the wrong names. Therefore, this article is focused to highlight the major differences among the philodendrons and monsteras.


Monstera has a climbing growth habit and is native to the tropical climates of Mexico and Hawaii. It is also known as the swiss cheese plant as it has iconic holes in the leaves. This plant is well known for the production of delicious fruit and this species has good relevance with the common houseplants.


Philodendrons have trailing growing habits. These plants have similarities to the pothos and belong to the Araceae family. The meaning of philodendron is the love tree due to the heart-type shape of the leaves. These plants are known to be native in the tropical climates of Hawaii and America. There are numerous species of philodendron vine and some of these have deeply lobed leaves and trunks that are not heart-shaped, round, and smooth as monstera.

Why the confusion?

The name split-leaf philodendron is being used for both true split-leaf philodendron and monstera due to resemblances in their physical appearances. The differences among these plants can be visualized with the help of proper knowledge about plant taxonomy and classification. Both monstera and philodendrons have almost the same origins, and diversity. Usually, they display epiphyte growing habits as their aerial roots grow on the trees for the absorption of nutrients and water from the host plant. They can rarely grow in the soil and it is very difficult to find them in the urban landscapes, gardens, roadsides, and swaps. Some other plant genera also have a wide range of coloring, patterns, shape, and leaf sizes and can easily hybridize. Horticulturists and breeders are carefully selecting the specific features and parameters such as fenestration and variegation to make new varieties. Even botanists considered these plants the same in the last decades and major differences have been recently revealed by closer examination.

Differences Between Monstera and Philodendrons

  • No Chances of Cross-Pollination

These plants belong to the same species but have different families so these are two distinctive plants. Therefore cross-pollination of these plants is not possible for making new hybrids.

  • Size Differences

Monstera plants have an apparent size and the term monstera is used for the plants having larger leaf sizes of more than 1-meter length and width. While philodendrons are small as compared to the monsteras. Monsteras can grow up to 10 feet but philodendrons can only grow to a height of about 3 feet. However, variations, in the growth patterns are possible due to differences in the species and varieties.

  • Fenesteartions

Physical differences are also evident between these plants. The most evident physical difference is that philodendrons do not have fenestration while monstera is specifically fenestrated. Fenestration term is used to describe the presence of holes in the leaves. Leaf splitting is also known as leaf perforation. Leaf fenestration has a similar-looking phenomenon to that of pinnation that is used for describing the arrangement of leaf lobes or leaflets along the stem in a specific feather-like pattern.

While fenestration term is used for describing the presence of circle-shaped holes or perforation. The leaves having fenestrations can split all way long until there is no visualization of round shape perforation. This pattern can be observed in the monstera borsigiana and monstera deliciosa when they are at younger stages and fenestrations are round and small having proper borders around these holes. Thinning of these borders is evident with the plant maturity followed by the splitting on the edges.

  • Different Climbing Habits

Although both philodendrons and monstera are climbing plants, the monstera specifically has huge aerial roots for helping the plants to cling. Monstera grows in the vertical direction while philodendrons grow well in the horizontal direction. Philodendrons have trailing growing habits and sprawl out over specifically flat surfaces.

  • Movement of Parts

Monstera leaves have knees-like joints known as pulvinus or geniculum. These joints allow the easy movement of leaves to follow the sunlight. These joints are also present in the prayer-plants leaves. Philodendrons do not have moving leaves and both plants can be easily differentiated by the presence or absence of geniculum.

  • Fruit Production

Philodendrons do not produce fruits but monstera does. However, fruit production in the monstera is a rare phenomenon for indoor growing.

  • Sheath Presence

The newer leaves of philodendrons are protected by the presence of a sheath known as cataphyll. The presence of this sheath helps protect the new younger leaves after emergence. Usually, the cataphyll dries and falls in the philodendrons but is retained in the monstera leaves throughout their life cycle. Removal of cataphyll sheath from the mature leaves is not a recommended approach as it can cause significant damage to the stem.

  • Differences in the Leaf Texture

The leaf texture of both plants is entirely different and has significant differences. The leaves of philodendrons look ruffled while monstera leaves are flattered and smoother.

Monstera Varieties Similarities With Philodendrons

Although there are significant differences between philodendrons and monstera plants some monstera varieties have major similarities with philodendrons. Some of these varieties include the following.

Monstera standleyana: This plant is also called a five holes plant and has dark green leaves and an oval shape. Typically its leaves are speckled but have variegation in some cases. Some sellers are listing this plant under the Philodendron cobra name.

Monstera dubia: This is one of the rare monstera species and grows in close association with the tree surfaces. There is the gradual development of fenestration with maturity. The smaller heart-shaped leaves at the younger stages have good similarities with the philodendron leaves and some Scindapsus species.

Monstera Borsigiana and Monstera deliciosa: Usually sellers are selling these plants as philodendrons due to closer appearances of the leaves.

Philodendron Varieties Having Similarities with Monstera

Philodendron minima: The identification of this plant is a tricky task. It has split oval-shaped leaves and has good similarities to the monstera leaves. Neiether it is monstera nor it is philodendron. Instead, it belongs to different species and genera (Rhaphidophora).

Philodendron bipannatifidum: This plant is being confused with the monstera deliciosa but the major difference lies in the size and shape of leaves. Philodendrons have smaller and split leaves and do not have much fenestration. The shape of its leaves is feather-like while monstera leaves have heart-shaped round structures.

The Scindapsus pictus exotica is a vigorous growing vining nature plant with dark green heart-shaped leaves and silver-white splashes. It is an evergreen flowering plant and belongs to the Araceae family. This twining tropical plant grows in the USDA zone 10-12 in outdoor conditions. Growers can also grow it indoors followed by the right care and management. It produces long trailing stems and velvety leaves so adds significant beauty to the living space. It is known to be native to the humid and tropical Asian regions where it specifically grows as climbing on the trees or creeping on the ground in the shade of trees. It has slow growth in the wild and its vines can reach the height of about 10 feet.

Scindapsus Pictus Exotica Plant Care and Growing Guide

  • Use good quality, and contaminant-free soil to support good growth and development.
  • Try to hang these plants on walls, or desk racks.
  • Ideally, this plant can be placed in the bathroom as it grows well in humid surroundings.
  • Use a trellis to allow this plant to climb.
  • Regularly trim the growing plant to help it grow fuller.
  • Plant 4-7 plants in a larger container to get complete or bushy effects of the growing plants.
  • Avoid watering stress and water plants according to their needs and prevailing climatic conditions.
  • Use both organic and inorganic sources of fertilizers for better nutrient provision to the plant roots.
  • Avoid the excessive use of synthetic chemical fertilizers as they can negatively affect the soil properties.
  • Report the plants after proper root bounding.
  • Regularly check the growing plants for the variegation patterns and loss of variegation.
  • Use scissors or pruners with sharper blades to control the shape and growing nature of this plant.
  • Its leaves prioritize to grow towards light source so regularly rotate this plant to maintain a good shape.
  • Use a damp paper towel or cloth to gently wipe the leaves for maintenance of neat and clean conditions.

Soil Requirements

Growers can observe the excellent growth of Scindapsus pictus exotica by using well-draining and fertile soil in the pots. Different types of potting mixes are easily available in online stores and nurseries. Growers can easily get grow media or potting mix according to the nature of growing plants. It is also possible to make good quality grow mix at home by mixing half amount of loamy soil and half amount of peat, compost, muck, and partially decomposed straws.

The addition of organic waste or materials is essentially helpful to improve soil fertility. Moreover, the decomposition of organic material significantly improves the soil structure, water-holding capacity, and nutrient provision capacities. Use of clay and sandy soil is not recommended as clay soil holds too much water while sandy soil causes immediate drainage of the water. The use of soil amendments and artificial grow media is also a good choice to improve the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the soil.

Some of the beneficial ingredients that growers can use to make a potting mix for the plants include the following.

Coco coir: It has organic nature and is obtained from coconut trees. It is essentially important to make grow mix due to its exceptional properties such as good drainage, water holding capacity, and absorbency. Most often it is being used as a substituent for the peat moss and is easily available in nurseries and stores.

Compost: It is a rich source of essential nutrients for growing plants. Growers can easily make compost at home in the compost bins, recyclers, and backyards. Compost helps plants roots to absorb nutrients in a better way and also improve the physical, chemical, and biological properties of soil. Different types of organic materials and waste substances are used for making compost, so it releases all kinds of nutrients. These nutrients are not only helpful for the soil but also important to sustain microbial communities and soil biodiversity. Soil having good biodiversity, and microbial life is much more efficient to sustain better plant growth than the soil having less microbial activities.

Shredded bark: Use of shredded bark along with soil in the grow mix helps plants to breathe better. Shredded tree bark has larger particles and allows the formation of air pockets in the soil. Moreover, it helps for better soil moisture absorption and helps plants to thrive in water-deficient conditions as well. Growers can easily prepare the shredded bark at home by following the below-mentioned instructions.

  • Get tree bark from any fungus-free, disease-free, and healthy-growing trees.
  • Use a sharp knife for shredding the bark pieces in a specific downward motion.
  • Create thinner pieces with a thickness of about seven paper sheets.
  • Cut each shredded bark piece to a length of about one inch.
  • Collect the shredded bark and carefully place it in the container bottom.
  • Cut enough bark so that ½ inches of the container can be filled with the shredded bark.
  • Add some water so that bark is properly covered in the pot or container.
  • Add compost or peat moss, and soil to fill the container for growing plants.

Perlite: It is a sterile, mined, and lightweight volcanic rock that is available in white, small Styrofoam balls. It is an ideal choice for making gardening grow mix as it helps to increase drainage, pore space, and water holding capacity for 3-4 times. It has neutral pH and is easily available at garden centers and nurseries.

Vermiculite: It is a mined mineral and is conditioned by specific and appropriate heating for expansion into lighter particles. It is a rich source of magnesium and calcium and slowly provides nutrients to the growing plants. Other than this it is also helpful to improve water holding capacity and drainage of the growing mix so helps to improve plant growth on a sustainable basis.

Peat moss: It is the most important ingredient in most potting mixes and is a stable and easily available material. It helps to bulk up the grow mix without the addition of much weight and helps to improve the water holding capacity. It also helps for good drainage and aeration but is low in nutrients. Its pH ranges between 3.5-4.5 so growers must have to add some other organic materials and fertilizers along with the peat moss to improve soil fertility.

Limestone: The use of pulverized dolomitic limestone, and calcitic limestone is greatly helpful for neutralizing the pH of the soil and grow mix. The grower should add at least ¼ cup of limestone 6 gallons of peat moss. These minerals are less expensive as they are obtained from natural deposits and growers can easily get these from nearby gardening centers and nurseries.


This plant grows well in the pH range of 6.1-6.5. Usually, pH is not a major concern for this plant as it can easily tolerate slight fluctuations in the pH level. Different soils have different pH levels due to the presence of various minerals, contaminants, elements, chemical compounds, and the nature of the parent material. It is always possible to maintain the pH in the optimal range according to the nature of growing plants. pH can be easily maintained by the addition of amendments, compost, organic matter, biochar, and minerals. Different types of pH meters are available in the market and growers can purchase their pH meters for regular testing. Moreover, they can also take the soil to the nearby soil testing laboratories and services to check the soil pH and soil health.


Its vining and exotic leaves grow well in bright sunny locations. Ideally, growers can hang it in the baskets near the near sunny windows to ensure maximum exposure to sunlight. This plant grows well in the presence of bright light but direct exposure to the sunlight and grow lights should be avoided. This does not only help to improve its exposure to the sun but also improves the beauty of bookcases, shelves, and walls. It can also be placed near the desk or table, but the provision of optimal light and proper pruning is a must management condition. although it requires more sunlight to grow but can also tolerate some shade, it is an ideal choice to improve the beauty of homes and offices.


Water this plant to a depth of top 5cm when the soil is completely dry. Scindapsus pictus exotica requires more water in the summer but the watering frequency can be reduced in the spring and winter. Growers can water it two times a week during summer but can cut the watering to about 14-20 days in the winter. However, checking the soil moisture contents is the topmost priority to determine the watering needs of the growing plants.

One of the best watering ways for this plant is to properly soak the soil with filtered water. Allow the easy drainage to remove the excess water and must do watering at room temperature to avoid irrigation stress. Overwatering should be avoided especially for the hanging baskets because root rotting can affect the lush foliage as well. Resultantly, yellow leaves, weak growth, and mushy stems can be observed followed by death in the worst scenario. In case of extensive root, rotting take the healthy growing cuttings from plants and propagate them for new growth.


Ideally, this plant grows well in the temperature range of 18-29 degrees Celsius, and thus average room temperature is best for growing this plant indoors. Any fluctuation in temperature can cause direct negative effects on the foliage, therefore temperature regulation is the most important factor to ensure normal growth. Temperature monitoring and regulating devices must be used for this plant as its growth is also affected by household cooling, and heating. It can also be hung in the baskets in the outdoor conditions in the temperate regions to beautify the balcony, and patio in the summer. Growers must take the hanging baskets indoors if the temperature drops less than 16 degrees Celsius.


The humidity requirements of indoor growing Scindapsus pictus exotica are 40-50% on average. Maintaining the higher humidity levels helps plants to grow even better. Browning of leaf tips is also an indication of more humidity requirements for this plant. This plant is known to be native to tropical areas but can easily adapt the drier indoor conditions with little compromise in its growth and development. Thus, growers should ensure optimal humidity and good air circulation to boost the overall health of the growing plant.


Scindapsus pictus exotica requires only one fertilization during each summer and spring season. The use of balanced and diluted houseplant fertilizer helps to produce silver foliage, soft, and vibrant dark green leaves. Growers can apply fertilizers along with watering to get the best results as good soil moisture is required to allow movement of nutrients from the soil to plants. Changing the growing media or soil after every 3-4 months is helpful to avoid the buildup of minerals and harmful salts. This practice is essentially helpful to avoid root burning and browning of leaf tips. Dormant growth is a normal phenomenon in the winter and fall and this growth suppression is not related to nutrient deficiency. Thus, there is no need to fertilize the growing plants during this period. Only light watering without the addition of fertilizers is sufficient to avoid the death of the plants.


Scindapsus pictus exotica requires less pruning as compared to the other houseplants. Prune the specific vines by slightly trimming the longer stems to the appropriate length. Cutting below the good nodes helps to support new growth to get the bushy appearance of this plant. Pruning of the leggy stems, yellow leaves, dying and dead stems are also helpful to improve its appearance and shape. Pruning the twining vines also helps for propagation to grow new plants.


Repotting Scindapsus pictus exotica after every two years is a good idea to encourage good growth and development. Transferring this plant in a larger container also helps to promote better growth. Growers must check the health of roots and symptoms of damage and decay during the repotting process. The sign for repotting this plant includes water pooling, slower growth, and the emergence of roots out of the pot. It is simple to repot this plant by removing the plant from its current place, removing excess soil from its roots, and placing it in a new and larger container filled with good quality soil. Never choose any large-sized container as it can cause drainage issues soggy soil, and root rotting.

Scindapsus Pictus Exotica Propagation

  • Propagation by using stem cuttings is the best way to grow Scindapsus pictus exotica.
  • Snip the healthy growing and good quality stems of 12-15 cm length to get good propagation results.
  • Cutting the stems immediately below the good nodes is important to start good growth.
  • Moreover, the selected cutting should have few leaves and three to four nodes on the stems.
  • Remove the lower leaves on the stem to allow the better rooting of the cutting.
  • The stem cutting can also be placed in the water-filled jar, soil, potting mix, or grow media.
  • Newer growth can be observed from the soil-covered or submerged node after two to three weeks.
  • Transfer the rooted cutting to the clean and contaminant-free pot filled with good quality and fresh potting mix or soil.
  • Place the pot in the bright but indirect light to get good results.
  • Water well and regularly monitors the growth and development patterns to sustain better health of the plant.
  • Direct placement of cutting in the soil also favors good propagation and healthy growth. It is important to seal the pot with the help of a plastic bag for soil propagation.
  • Avoid heavy irrigation at this point and gently sprinkle the water on the soil to keep appropriate soil moisture contents.
  • Covering the cutting with a plastic bag helps to maintain a humid environment that in turn favors speedy rooting.
  • Remove the covering after 3-4 weeks and allow the rooted cutting to grow normally.

How to Grow Scindapsus Pictus Exotica From Seeds

This plant rarely produces flowering and fruiting so propagation by using stem cuttings is the best choice to grow new plants.

Scindapsus Pictus Exotica Common Problems and How to Treat

  • Pest Problems

Scindapsus pictus exotica is a hardy plant and is rarely affected by the insect pest attack. Spider mites and scale insects are major effects that affect its growth and development. Identifying the common symptoms of pests on the plants is the major factor to control the pest populations. Spider mites make strands like thin webs on the foliage of this plant. Whereas scales are brown and make bumpy growth on its stems.

Growers can easily eradicate the pest populations by neem oil-based pesticides, organic pesticides, and soap-based formulations. Best results can be obtained by spraying the effective pesticides after every 7-14 days. Moreover, growers can also handpick the pests whenever visible. Cleaning its leaves with a wet paper towel, and gentle water spray is also helpful to maintain good hygienic conditions and to eradicate the insect pests.

  • Diseases

Most of the diseases related to Scindapsus pictus exotica are related to overwatering such as root rotting. Root rotting can be avoided by reducing overwatering, soggy soils, and fungal infections in the rhizosphere and around the rooting systems. Stems may appear mushy and black at this time and leaves can turn yellow due to disease attacks. The majority of diseases in these plants can be reduced by appropriate watering by determining the plants’ needs and soil moisture contents. Prune off the roots showing decaying signs. Cut the fresh and healthy growing stems in case of excessive rotting to allow new growth by propagation.

  • Leaf Browning

Typically, the leaf browning of Scindapsus pictus exotica is caused due to low humidity levels. This problem can be easily resolved by increasing the humidity levels in the surroundings. It is also possible to reduce leaf browning by placing the pots on the water tray and adding pebbles to it. Brown spots on the leaves can also be caused by direct exposure to sunlight. So, leaf browning can also be reduced by keeping it in a place where it can get filtered light or partial shade.

  • Leaf Yellowing

Leaf yellowing in this plant is an indication of overwatering. Soggy soil causes waterlogged conditions and plants roots are not able to get nutrients and air. Resultantly leaves get deprived of nutrients and leave become yellow and pale-colored.

  • Leaf Curling

Various biotic and abiotic stresses can cause leaf curling in Scindapsus pictus exotica plants. Curling of foliage may be due to underwatering, poor exposure to sunlight, excessive dryness, and heat. The problem of leaf curling can be avoided by ensuring proper care and management measures.

  • Dying Scindapsus Pictus Exotica

Poor growth development and death of this plant can happen due to various possible reasons. Root rotting is the major reason for the death of this plant so growers must avoid excessive dampness and waterlogging. Other than this too much exposure to the bright sunlight and underwatering and less humidity may also cause the death of healthy growing plants. Therefore, management of all major factors is essentially important to maintain good growth.

  • Aphids

Aphids can easily devour their leaves and leave brown and black spots on the plant surface. The aphid population can be reduced by using Ivory liquid, neem oil, or insecticidal soap. It is important to use chemical-free, and perfume-free products to make insecticidal sprays. Growers can also make soap sprays at home, but only mild concentrations should be used to avoid damaging the growing plants.

  • Fungus Gnats

Usually, the fungus gnats’ problem is most common in wet soils. Their larvae easily attack the roots of this plant for feeding and cause poor growth and wilting. The problem of fungus gnats can be avoided by using a self-watering planter as it helps water absorption by roots through the wick and thus there is no excessive wetting on the topsoil.

  • Mealy Bugs

Mealybugs are tiny parasites and often infect this plant by the insertion of a feeding tube to plant tissues for sap-sucking. Severe infestation can lead to compromised growth and even the death of plants. The problem of mealybug infestation can be reduced by rubbing the alcohol-dipped cotton swab on the stems and leaves. The use of neem oil and organic formulations is also a good choice to prevent mealybug populations from growing plants.

  • Drooping Leaves

Downy mildew and mealybugs are the major reasons for leaf drooping. So, growers must check and control their populations to avoid leaf drooping. Moreover, fertilization and overwatering can also contribute to these problems so all factors must be controlled to get good results.

Other Related Varieties

  • Scindapsus pictus‘Argyraeus’: This plant has dark green and smaller leaves. The variegation is more defined with evenly dispersed, less splotchy silver markings. The leaves have specifically silver edges, and the plant is named so because of silver variegation. Its leaves have a darker color and its leaves have striking contrast on their surface.
  • Scindapsus pictus ‘Silvery Ann(e)’: This variety has highly variegated, light green colored, and heart-shaped leaves.
  • Scindapsus pictus jade satin: This is a rare variety and is often confused with the jade Pothos. There are no silver patches on its leaves rather they have a cool texture.


Is Scindapsus pictus exotica a toxic plant?

This plant is poisonous to cats, dogs, and all other animals. This plant contains higher levels of insoluble calcium oxalates and can cause swallowing difficulty, oral swelling, excessive drooling, and severe irritation. The sap of this plant may also cause skin burning, dermatitis, and skin itching in human beings.

Do Scindapsus pictus exotica produce flowers?

Flowering is an insignificant feature of Scindapsus pictus exotica, but it can produce small inflorescence (spadix) during the summer season. Usually, the color of these leaves is bright green and leads to the development of small berries. It is important to know that flowering and fruiting is a rare phenomenon for these plants and there is no link between the nutritional deficiencies and poorest management.

Does the  Scindapsus pictus exotica have an invasive nature?

This plant has invasive growing nature in humid and frost-free climatic conditions. Its aggressive growth and vining nature can be observed in the subtropical and tropical regions.

Is there any way to ensure faster growth of Scindapsus pictus exotica?

Scindapsus pictus exotica has a slow-growing nature but the faster growth and development can be encouraged by regular feeding and maintaining the right environmental conditions. Overapplication and underapplication of fertilizers, water, and other inputs must be avoided to minimize the adverse effects on the growing plants.

Is Scindapsus pictus exotica an air-purifying plant?

Studies conducted by the leading scientific organizations and researchers have shown that Scindapsus pictus exotica has good capability to remove certain air pollutants including benzene, toluene, xylene, formaldehyde, carbon mono oxide, and toluene.

Where To Buy The Scindapsus Pictus Exotica?

Curry plant (Murraya koenigii) produces aromatic leaves and is native to tropical and subtropical regions of Asia. Curry leaves are well known throughout the globe due to their unique flavor-enhancing properties for cuisines. It is also known as sweet neem and can grow about 4-6 meters tall and 40 cm in diameter. Its leaves are pinnate and are provided with 11-21 leaflets. Curry tree produces white and yellow small flowers that are capable of self-pollination for the production of shiny black and small drupes containing a large viable and single seed. Its flowering period is significantly shorter but produces partial and cup-like flowers. The produced pulp in the berry is edible and has a sweet flavor.

The curry tree is a perennial and annual green plant and produces silver-gray to silver-green colored needle-like leaves. The structure of its leaves is similar to the rosemary or lavender and contains numerous essential oils that add specific curry fragrance. The fragrance of curry intensifies even more after rain. The stems of curry plants are initially unstable but are stabilized with time. Curry leaves offer numerous health and wellness properties such as wound healing, reducing skin problems, restlessness, hemorrhoids, bruises, nervous restlessness, mild depression, lymphatic vessel disorders, and stress.

How to Grow and Care for Curry Leaf Plant at Home

USDA Zones

Curry plant has hardy growing nature and can easily grow well in the USDA Zones 7-10. It requires full sunny conditions for growth and development but should be protected from excessive wetness and winds.  


The Curry plant grows well in mildly acidic and well-drained soils. This plant cannot adapt to other soil conditions and therefore growers must have to take proper care to maintain the right mix of different soil mixes. Sometimes it may happen that the structure or quality of soil is not appropriate in the specific areas. In this case, the quality of soil can be easily improved by mixing the well-prepared and good quality compost, peat, muck soil, organic matter, or mineral soil. However, growers must go for soil testing as a basic step to understanding the nature and properties of the soil. This testing helps to reveal all information about soil structure, soil texture, its physical, chemical, and biological health, level of nutrients, presence of contaminants, and beneficial and harmful soil biodiversity. Once the result of soil testing is obtained, growers can easily add the recommended amount of amendments, fertilizers, and organic materials.  


Curry plants grow well in the pH range of 5.6-6 and ideal growth can be obtained by the management of soil pH using biological or organic amendments. Although, use of some chemical amendments is also helpful to maintain soil pH according to the requirements of growing plants excessive use of chemicals causes negative consequences on the soil biodiversity. Therefore, growers must maintain the soil pH by the use of organic, safe, and contaminant-free inputs.


Curry plant thrives well in the full sunny conditions but its direct exposure to intense and scorching heat must be avoided as it may cause sun burning.


The curry plant has optimal watering requirements and should be watered only once a week in mild climatic conditions. However, it has high watering requirements during the summer conditions and should be watered after every other day to avoid water stress. Growers must schedule watering according to the prevailing climatic conditions and soil moisture contents in which the plant is being grown. Sometimes the upper layer of soil is dry due to evaporative losses, but the subsurface and lower layer have a significant amount of moisture to support plant growth. Therefore, testing the soil moisture contents in the subsurface layer is essentially important to support better plant growth and development. Over irrigation must be avoided as it can cause excessive wetting that in turn may lead to the development of diseases and insect pest attacks.


Fertilization must be done after pruning even if there are no leaves on the curry plant stems. Fertilization helps plants to survive harsh environmental conditions and this survival in the initial years is greatly important to improve survival and developmental potential in the upcoming years. However, if the curry plant is being grown in the pots the fertilizer should never be applied randomly but at the rim of specific pots. Application of strong fertilizers is not recommended for curry plants after pruning. If a curry plant is growing in the ground, the fertilizer must be applied at the canopy of leaves. Apply fertilizers to the leaves after every 3-4 weeks in the form of liquid fertilizers to support lush and vigorous growth.

Application of one teaspoon of good quality iron chelate and three teaspoons of iron sulfate after every 3-5 weeks is also important to improve the health of the curry plant’s foliage. The faster growth of curry leaves can be supported by feeding the plant with the Epsom salt solution. This solution can be prepared by the addition of one teaspoon of Epsom salt in one liter of good quality and contamination-free water. This Epsom salt application must be done after every three months through fall, summer, and spring. Buttermilk and diluted curd can also be used as homemade fertilizer to improve the overall growth and development of curry plants.


Curry plants grow well in the USDA zone of 7-10 but they can also be grown in slightly warmer and cooler conditions as well. Growers can easily grow it in outdoor conditions if they are living in the 7-10 zone, but it can also be grown in indoor conditions followed by the right management. The curry plants must be grown in the sunny spots in the gardens and lawns. Pinching off white flowers helps to accelerate the growth and development in the initial two years. The plant can grow quickly followed by the right management and initial vigorous settlements.

Gardeners living in the USDA zones below 9 or harsh and colder conditions should grow curry plants in the containers in indoor conditions. Curry plants can be grown in the spring season in winter conditions. It must be grown in a container of 5 gallons or even bigger as the plant will grow in size with time. Curry plants can tolerate mild cold or freezing temperatures but much more care is required to take off the plant in harsh conditions. Usually, curry plants shed their leaves in cold temperatures and go under dormant conditions until the spring season. However, the curry plant can easily resume its growth in the spring followed by the right care and management.


The curry plant grows well in humid and warm growing conditions, so the management of appropriate humidity levels is essentially helpful to support its growth and development. The humidity level in the surroundings can be easily maintained by the right irrigation in growing conditions. However, the humidity levels in indoor conditions can be properly managed by the use of humidifiers and dehumidifiers. There are different kinds of sensors available in the market and online stores and growers can easily get any desired sensor for humidity management.

Changing Pots for the Curry Leaf Plant

Spring is the best time for transplantation of the curry plant to a larger pot. Even it is also an ideal season for changing the soil in the previously growing pot. Some people are not aware of the significance of changing the soil in the pots where plants are already being grown. Soil is a good source of nutrients and there is no need to change or replace the soil in agricultural lands, gardens, and lawns. Whereas the nutrients level is significantly depleted in the pots and therefore soil must be replaced to provide the best growing conditions for curry plants.

Pruning the Curry Leaf Plant

Pruning practices are essentially helpful to improve the growth and development of plants. Typically, there is a recommendation of one pruning per year for curry plants. Pruning practices can be easily done by pinching off the branches and dead leaves on curry plants. Curry pruning must be performed in the spring season but if the plant is not doing well growers can prune the plants 2-3 times a year to support healthy and vigorous plants growth.

How to Grow Curry Plant from Seed

Curry plants can be easily grown from the seeds with the right care and management. Following are some essentials to grow curry plants from seeds.

  • Harvest ripened and good-quality seeds from healthy and contaminant-free parent plants.
  • Full ripened seeds can be easily identified due to the development of black color on their outer skin.
  • Gently press the skin from the outer side and carefully extract the seeds.
  • Carefully wash the seeds and dry these in indoor conditions for further processing.
  • These seeds can be grown in good quality soil, compost, peat, and grow mix. However, the management of soil pH and drainage is significantly important to get good germination and vigorous growth.
  • The use of sand is essentially a good alternative to support excellent drainage in rainy conditions.
  • Take any bowl, or pot provided with the optimal size hole for drainage.
  • Fill it with the soil or grow mix and add the seeds in the grow mix or soil.
  • Maintain a minimum distance of about 2 inches among the individual seeds to support effective germination.
  • Gently cover the seeds with the potting mix, soil, peat, or compost.
  • Place the pots in the full sunlight in the winter conditions and partial sunlight conditions in the warmer climatic conditions.
  • Regularly irrigate the pots but avoid moisture stress. Growers must avoid both over-irrigation and under-irrigation to avoid quality losses and compromised growth and development.
  • Always keep the soil moist to support proper water uptake by the developing rooting systems.
  • Curry plant is easy to handle after the development of true leaves and growers can easily transplant the seedlings at this stage.
  • Seedlings after the development of true leaves can be transplanted both in the containers or in the gardening soil.
  • Growers must prepare the growing soil by the right mixing of half compost mix, half cocopeat, half sand, and one part of the soil to support better plant growth and development by the efficient functioning of the rooting system.
  • Properly cover the drainage hole of the pots and fill it with a good quality potting mix.
  • Carefully plant each curry seedling in the central place.
  • Growers must remove the seedlings with the soil from germination places to avoid transplantation shocks.
  • Irrigate it properly and place the plant in shade for 1-2 days.
  • The pots containing transplanted seedlings must be placed in sunny conditions after the stabilization of seedlings in the pots.
  • Cut the seedlings from the top when these reach 5-6 inches in height. This cutting above the leaf nodes is helpful to develop more branches.
  • Must add organic fertilizers on monthly basis to get better soil quality, health, and fertility to support the best growth of plants.
  • Spray 5 ml liquid soap and neem oil after every 15-20 days to avoid insect pest attacks on the growing plants.
  • A jet water sprayer can be used to spray on both sides of leaves for the most effective results.
  • Wash growing plants every 7-10 days to remove the dust from the leaves and above the nodes.
  • Provide support with the sticks so that growing plants cannot lean on any side.
  • Support provision with the sticks helps plants to grow in the straight position and thus breakage losses due to weight on the stem will be significantly reduced.
  • Curry plants easily go dormant in the colder and harsh conditions in the winter season, so the plants must be placed at a point where they can get maximum sunlight during the daytime conditions.
  • However, if there are no sunny conditions in the winter the plants must be placed in indoor conditions, and an artificial lighting system should be used to support ideal growth.
  • Growers must properly prune the fully grown and mature plants to avoid the development of fungal diseases and other problems due to poor air circulation.

How to grow the Curry Leaf Plant from Propagation/ Cutting

Curry plants can be easily started from the cutting, but the selection of vigorously growing and disease-free plants is greatly important to get the best growth and good quality leaves. Curry cuttings can also be obtained from neighbors, friends, colleagues, and can also be purchased from nursery, and markets. However, the selection of the right source is greatly important to get good results. For this purpose, growers need potting soil and a minimum of about 4 inches of pot or growing containers. The use of rooting hormone is also important to promote rooting development, but it is an optional choice and growers can also skip it if not easily available in the nearby stores or markets.

The followings are some important points to grow curry plants from stems or cuttings.

  • Select healthy growing, sturdy growing, and a flexible stem. This flexible stem can be easily found on the side of the selected plant and is known as the sucker. This growing stem has 3-4 compound leaves growing on it.
  • Selection of overly wooden stem must be avoided.
  • Younger and semihard wooden stems are essentially important for the propagation of curry plants.
  • Cut the selected stem about 2-3 inches below the nodes of third and fourth leaves.
  • Cut the stem by using sharp, and contaminant-free scissors for a smooth cutting experience and avoiding improper cuts on the leaves.
  • Cut all the leaves lying below the selected nodes so that the bottom 2-3 inches of the cutting is bare and without plants.
  • Peel off the skin of the selected cutting for about 2 inches by using a sharp knife.
  • This peeling can be much similar to that of carrot peeling to ensure a good propagation experience.
  • Dip the cutting in the water cup immediately for prevention of drying during the pot preparation period.
  • Fill the pot with good quality grow mix, compost, peat or much soil, and organic material to support the goof soil biodiversity.
  • Avoid using clay-based and heavy soils because this soil is not efficient for supporting fast drainage and the presence of excessive water in the surface and subsurface soil may favor root rotting.
  • Properly moisten the soil before inserting the cutting for smooth insertion and better-rooting development.
  • Gently push the fingers in the downward direction in the center of potting soil until a 2-3 inches wide and deep hole is created.
  • Remove the cutting from the soil and shake the excess water from the cutting.
  • Dip the cutting in the rooting powder if a good quality rooting hormone is available.
  • Carefully insert the cutting in the hole to avoid separation and falling off of the rooting hormone from the cutting.
  • Properly fill the hole with the created soil and firmly press the soil around the cutting to ensure that it will stay at its place.

Managing Pests and Diseases of the Curry Leaf Plant

Growing curry plants are prone to scales, spider mites, black spots, whiteflies, butterflies, leaf roller, bark borer, citrus black fly, mealybugs, and Fungus Gnats. Usually, the insect pests such as aphids and scales feed on the newly emerged leaves and tender branches. The problem of insect pests can be avoided by using appropriate management measures. Spraying neem oil on the plants after every 7-10 days is helpful to reduce infestation. Spraying neem oil is essentially helpful to reduce the populations of harmful pests and to protect the plants from bacterial and fungal infections. Hose down the plant at least 1-2 times a month and use sharp water spraying to reduce the pests. However, if still there is the problem of bug infestations growers must try some other alternatives such as the use of synthetic chemical pesticides.

Asian citrus psyllid bugs are known to cause the most damage to the curry plants and are regarded as most dangerous due to their potential capability to carry huanglongbing deadly disease that affects all forms of growing citrus. The probability of these pests and diseases can be reduced by the implementation of proper quarantine measures. These bugs have a similar size to that of aphids and have brownish body color, red eyes, and proper wings. Its adults and nymphs both feed on the curry leaves. The leaf damage can be observed in the form of deformation of leaves and growers must take preventive action at this stage to avoid further spread of the problem. The populations of these pests can be reduced and controlled by the use of systemic insecticides and foliar sprays. The foliar spraying of insecticides is significantly effective for killing adult psyllid bugs. Whereas the application of systemic insecticides to the soil is essentially helpful for controlling the nymphs.

Citrus leaf fly causes leaf damage by feeding on the leaf saps. Growers can easily identify the presence of insect pests due to the degree of damage caused to the leaves and plants. The presence of honeydew on the leaves is also an indication of insect pest attacks. Whereas boring insects bore the curry plants at larval stages. The presence of boring pests is not a well-known problem for healthy curry leaves and therefore the presence of these pests can be reduced by maintaining the good health of curry plants. However, disease development and insect pest attack is not a significant concern for indoor growing curry plants. Growers can minimize the problems of insect pest attack and disease development on curry plants by using the following management measures.

  • Place the curry plants near the windows so that growing plants can get enough sunlight the survival. If sunny conditions are not available in the winter, the use of indoor grow lights is also the perfect alternative to keep the plant growing healthy.
  • Regularly water the growing curry plant but avoid over-irrigation and under irrigation.
  • Overwatering causes the growing plants to be more susceptible to root rot so growers must check the moisture contents in the soil before the next watering.
  • Pest attack is a rare concern for the indoor growing curry plants, but indoor growers may have to encounter a mealybug population on the curry leaves.
  • Although mealybugs are smaller insects these can be easily identified on the leaves of the curry plants. Moreover, mealybugs also leave sooty mold on the honeydew.
  • Mealybugs can be removed from the curry plants by spraying the streaming water and by rubbing alcohol-dipped cotton on the curry leaves.
  • Insect pest infestations can also be reduced by treating the growing plants with oil sprays and insecticidal soaps.
  • The use of chemical insecticides and chemicals is also effective to reduce insect pest attacks, but the use of synthetic chemicals is strictly prohibited for the indoor growing environment.

Companion Plantings of Curry Plants

The best companion plants for curry include basil, tomatoes, garlic, onions, borage, marigold, chives, lavender, tickseeds, Shasta daisy, cotton, creepy thyme, coneflower, California poppy, and rosemary. Curry plant should only be planted with the recommended companion plants as otherwise its growth and development will be negatively affected.

How to Prune and Harvest the Curry Leaf Plant?

Curry plants must be pruned in the fall or spring season and pruning in winter and summer conditions must be avoided. The use of sharp pruners is essentially important for a good pruning. Removal of old leaves must be prioritized for making clean diagonal cuts to make the plant bushier and stronger. Growers can pinch the top leaves when the leaves of curry plants are small. Repotting of curry plants before pruning is essentially helpful to encourage better growth and development. The provision of enough space is also important to improve its growth in all dimensions.

Curry plants must be planted in the ground after pruning as the plants growing in the ground can grow bigger and better in the size. Bigger plants produce more branches and leaves and therefore there are more pruning requirements for the ground growing curry plants. Pruning is also important for the pot-growing curry plants and thus growers must consider the pruning requirements according to growing nature and prevailing climatic conditions.

Plucking the flowers buds after pruning gives more energy to the growing plants and curry leaves. If these flowering buds are not properly removed plants will spend more energy on the flowering and thus the growth and development of leaves will be affected. Growers must have to take good care of growing plants after pruning because curry plants go to dormancy or resting state in the cold season that is also known as winter dormancy. The yellowing of curry leaves is known as chlorosis and it is one of the biggest indications of winter dormancy. All curry leaves may fall from the growing plants during winter dormancy and there is no specific need to worry about this condition.

The curry plant can be prepared for winter dormancy by cutting down the water application to the plants by the end of the winter season. This will be helpful for the curry plant to shift from the growing period to the resting state. The leaves on curry plants can be saved in the winter by moving these plants to indoor conditions and by improving the temperature in the indoor growing conditions.

The harvesting of curry plants is a simple and easiest approach but most people make a general mistake of harvesting leaves and curry leaves skeletons on the branches of the trees. These plants only harvest the bottom of plants and leave the skeletons of leaflets on the plants.

Can you grow the curry leaf plant indoors?

The Cury tree is a frost-tender plant but can be easily grown in indoor spaces. However, growers must try to grow it in the outside growing environment if conditions are feasible. The plant should only be grown in indoor conditions if the outdoor environment is too harsh to support the growth. It is important to note that the best growth in indoor conditions can only be supported by the right care and proper management measures. Feeding the plant with diluted seaweed fertilizer solution is significantly important to get better growth and development.

How Long Does a Curry Leaf Plant Take to Grow?

Usually, the curry plant can grow to its maximum potential in 1-2 years but the growth and development are greatly dependent on the prevailing climatic conditions and selection of the right variety. Proper pinching and pruning practices are also helpful to encourage the growth of multiple branches on the plant. Growers performing right pinching and pruning can get much better growth than those who don’t perform pruning and pinching in the right way.

How to Store Curry Plant Leaves?

Curry leaves can be used for cooking immediately after the harvesting and can also be stored for the latter. Effective storage of curry leaves can be achieved by using the following instructions and practices.

  • Cut the curry leaves with great care and avoid breaking and cutting the leaves.
  • Wash with clean and good quality water and gently remove the water from leaves by using tissue paper or a clean towel.
  • Spread the leaves in a single sheet of newspaper and let the leaves dry in the air.
  • Curry leaves can be spinned in the salad spinner for the removal of excess water. These leaves can be immediately stored in airtight containers for later use.
  • Curry leaves can be easily separated from the stems and can also be stored and processed by wrapping in the kitchen paper towels.
  • These leaves must be properly covered to allow wilting and color changing.
  • Drying the curry leaves in these paper towels helps to usually take about 10-15 days for drying.
  • Curry plants can also be dried in the sunlight. The dried leaves must be stored in airtight containers for better results and taste.

Storage in Refrigerator

  • Curry leaves can be easily stored in refrigerators by wrapping the leaves in a clean and dry paper towel.
  • Place the wrapped leaves in the airtight mason jar or container.
  • Keep the container in the fridge.
  • Wipe away the moisture contents or droplets in the jar and close the lid again.
  • These practices are essentially helpful to store the leaves for longer periods.

Storage in Freezer

  • Place the curry leaves in the ziplock bag or box.
  • Place these bags in the freezer.
  • Take out these leaves from the freezer and must lock the bag after taking the desired number of leaves.
  • Curry leaves can be placed in the tiffin box.
  • It is important to cover curry leaves with a white hanky for better storage.
  • Close the box and place it in the freezer for about one to two months and use whenever desired.

Air Drying of Curry Leaves

  • Carefully spread the curry leaves on the plate, newspaper, or tray.
  • Allow these leaves to dry in the air for about 2-3 days.
  • Properly dried leaves appear crispy or wilted. These leaves can be stored in the exactly wilted form or can be crumbled, crushed, or ground to make curry powder.
  • These leaves must be stored in an airtight container to maintain the test and freshness of leaves.

Some Facts About Curry Plants

The curry tree is an herbaceous shrub and is known to be originated from Turkey. This plant is well known in all regions of the world due to its unique taste and aroma. This plant can grow well in different geographical locations and can grow well in arid areas, rocky cliffs, and hillsides. Although this plant grows well in the well-drained, sandy, and nutrient-rich soil and the properties of soil and growing media can be greatly improved by the addition of organic fertilizers and composts. The Curry plant is also an essential source of good quality nutrients and essential oils and helps to improve the overall health and wellness of human beings.

Botanical Features and Growing Conditions

Curry leaves have smaller size, long, oral and slender shape that gets narrow at the specific point. The average size of its leaves is about 1-2 cm in width and 2-4 cm in length. Its leaves are dark green and shiny and grow pinnately on the curry stems. Each branch of curry leaf can hold more or less twenty tight clustered leaves. Its leaves produce a strong aroma and flavor but the extent of aroma and flavor production is greatly dependent on the specific climatic conditions and type of curry variety. Curry plants can also be grown in dry regions and arid, and semi-arid climatic conditions. Better growth and development of curry plants can also be supported by following the above-mentioned right care and management strategies. Curry plants produce a strong smell so curry trees can also be planted to repel, cats, deers, bugs, and other insect pests from gardens and growing spaces.

Antioxidative Properties of Curry Leaves

Curry leaves are easily available throughout the year, but different biotic and abiotic stresses can affect the growth and development of leaves. The growers can harvest and store the leaves for later use because sometimes curry plant goes dormant under unfavorable conditions. The harvested leaves can also be used to make the curry powder and this powder can be mixed with other spices for better flavor addition to dishes. Curry leaves contain rich protective substances such as phenolic compounds, glycosides, alkaloids, alpha-pinene, muurayanol, caryophyllene, mahanimbine, myrcene, alpha terpinene, and linalool. All these plants have powerful antioxidative properties and play a direct role to suppress oxidative stress and free radical damage to the body.

What is Lemongrass?

Lemongrass is a perennial and tall growing grass, and its bulbs and lower stalks produce a lemony, and fresh scent. Its leaves are used to make broths, curries, marinades, and teas. According to folk medicine, lemongrass contains essential oils having important medicinal properties and therefore its leaves are used for curing numerous medical conditions. Lemongrass contains fibers, minerals (calcium, manganese, iron, and magnesium) niacin, folate, vitamin C, and vitamin A. According to folk medicine, it is believed that the regular and optimal consumption of lemongrass is believed to be helpful in burning fats, reducing cholesterol levels, body detoxification, helping insomnia, curing fever, reducing aches, boosting immunity, treatment of infections, calming nerves, and alleviating fatigue, and anxiety due to stress.

Lemongrass grows in the form of dense clumps and produces blade-like and slender shaped, and stiff stems. Typically, the economic life span of this plant is four years, but it can grow for various years by the provision of ideal growing conditions, care, and management. Lemongrass produces base stems of red color and can grow up to the height of about 10 feet in favorable environmental conditions. Lemongrass grows well in rich and moist soil so its ideal growth can be promoted by improving soil health. Its roots can easily grow and take over in the lawns and gardens so growers must use physical barriers to prevent the interaction of its roots with the roots of other growing plants. There are various layers of the stalks of lemongrass and each layer is tightly wrapped around the core. Its top layers are green and tough. While the inner layer is white core and can be easily explored by peeling. Usually, the outer layer is removed, and the inner layer is used for cooking and medicinal purposes.

How To Grow Lemon Grass from Propagation/Cutting.

Lemongrass can be easily grown from the cuttings at home or in the living spaces. Growing lemongrass from the cuttings is simple and easy and you can also use the lemongrass purchased from supermarkets or stores. The stalk of lemongrass is enough to grow more plants and thus leaves should be stripped off from the cuttings. Additionally, there is no requirement to keep the roots along with the stalk because lemongrass has good capability to produce more roots.

Lemongrass cuttings can be easily grown both in the soil and water and growers can use any media according to the availability of materials and quality of available materials. If the cuttings have some roots these can be directly transplanted in the soil. However, if there are no roots in the stalk, it must be placed in the water-filled glass for a few days. Root emergence can be observed within days and this cutting can be used for further propagation.

Although, lemongrass cuttings can grow well in the water provided by optimal management. But the provision of aeration, management of pH, and application of liquid fertilizers according to the requirements of growing cuttings is a difficult task. Growers can get lush green, and healthy foliage by growing lemongrass in the soil. Addition of compost, and grow mix helps to produce better growth throughout the growing cycle because organic matter is a slow but steady source of nutrients.

How To Grow Lemon Grass from Seed

Growing lemongrass from the seeds is also pretty easy as it requires little or no specific management. However, seedlings must be kept in humid and warm conditions for the first few weeks of germination. Growers can easily get the seeds from any trusted dealers, friends, and neighbors. However, the use of contaminated and low-quality seeds must be avoided to reduce the chances of poor growth, insect pest attack, and disease development in the later stages of growth.

Seedlings require more nutrients and water to grow and are much sensitive to external climatic conditions and different types of stresses. Seedlings can be transplanted to the pots, or garden when these have reached a size of about 6 inches. The seeds of lemongrass are vulnerable and fragile so these seeds must be placed in a warm and dark place for about one to two weeks. Thus, seed sprouting can be accelerated easily in a warmer environment. The seedlings produced by this practice will be more vigorous, and healthy and will produce good growing plants.

After exposing seeds to a warm environment, the seeds can be placed in the seedling trays. The seeds must be inserted about ¼ inches deep in the growing media such as soil or perlite. The seeds must be covered with plastic bags or domes. Heat mats can also be placed beneath the seedling’s trays in the presence of cold climatic conditions. Growers must sprinkle the water on the seeds daily followed by the replacement of a plastic bag or dome. Domes can be removed from the trays after the emergence of seedlings.

Once the seedlings are reached to 6 inches in length these can be transplanted in the soil. The use of well-drained, good quality, rich and organic soil is essentially important to get excellent growth and development.

How to Properly Pot Lemongrass

Growers must select 300 mm deep and wide pots for potting lemongrass. The pots must be placed in partial shade or full sunny conditions. However, the selection of pot size is greatly dependent on the variety of lemongrass. The selection of pots with the holes at the bottom is essentially important to facilitate drainage. Moreover, the use of soil with good drainage properties is also important to minimize the effects of water retention in the soil. Growers must transplant the individual plants at least 24 inches apart to allow good growth and development.

Growing Requirements of Lemongrass

  • Soil

Lemongrass grows well in the well-drained, loamy, and rich soil. Growers can make the best quality soil by the addition of different amendments such as compost, organic matter, manure, and potting mix. The soil must be tested properly before using for growing lemongrass, because the presence of contaminants may cause negative effects on growing plants. The use of sandy and clayey soil is not recommended because sandy soils cause immediate leaching of water and nutrients below the root zone. Whereas, clayey soil offers poor drainage and may lead to the development of disease and pest attacks.

  • pH

The best growth of lemongrass can be observed in the soil having a pH range between 6.5-7.0. The use of inorganic fertilizers and synthetic chemicals causes major fluctuations in the soil pH. However, the pH of the soil can be maintained in this range by the application of amendments and by reducing the use of synthetic chemicals.

  • Light

Lemongrass enjoys intense and direct sun so it must be grown in sunny areas or partially shaded spots. This plant needs sunlight even during winter conditions so growers must plant it at the spots where growing plants can receive enough natural light. No exposure to sunlight causes browning of stems and compromised development.

If there is no sunlight in the specific climate or region, the plant can be grown in indoor conditions. the use of a light-emitting diode (LED) is a significantly important alternative to improve the growth of plants. However, direct contact between these lights and plant foliage should be avoided because it can cause burning.

  • Water

Regular watering is important to practice to get the best growth and development of lemongrass. However, the watering schedule must be carefully designed according to prevailing climatic conditions and the requirements of plants. The moisture level in the soil must be tested before the next watering. Watering requirements are significantly less for the plants growing in the colder areas. Whereas plants growing in the hot and dry regions requires frequent watering. Heavy irrigations must be avoided as the main objective is to keep the soil moist. The best time for watering lemongrass is late in the evening and early morning. Watering must be avoided at noon as it can exert negative effects on growing plants.

  • Temperature and Humidity

Lemongrass grows well in humid and warm climates. However, the plants can also be grown in the colder regions by overwintering in the protected environments. Lemongrass loves humidity in the surroundings and growers can improve humidity levels by sprinkling water in the gardens and lawns. However, complete control over humidity is possible in indoor growing conditions by the use of humidifiers and dehumidifiers.

Tips for Growing Lemongrass

  • Lemongrass is easy to grow plant and its best growth can be observed by minimal care and management.
  • Ideally, it grows well in tropical and moderate climatic conditions but can be grown in other conditions in indoor spaces.
  • Lemongrass can be grown in both outdoor and indoor conditions.
  • Only one seedling or seed should be planted in the one-pot because too many plants cannot grow well in space-limited conditions.
  • Pots must be placed in sunny spots or partial shade conditions so that plants can have enough sunlight for survival and growth.
  • Use well-drained, rich, and moist soil to allow root development and growth.
  • The use of organic fertilizers is greatly recommended than inorganic fertilizers.
  • Irrigate the growing lemongrass when the soil is getting dried. Overwatering must be avoided because it may cause root rotting, disease development, and insect pest attack.
  • Lemongrass thrives well in humid climates so good humidity should be maintained.
  • Frequent watering is required for the plants growing in dry and hot climatic conditions.
  • Lemongrass is extremely sensitive to cold climates and therefore its exposure to frost must be avoided.
  • Growers must clear all the weeds because weeds compete with the plants for space and nutrients.
  • Pruning is also helpful to improve the growth and development of lemongrass. So regular pruning must be practiced for ideal growth.
  • Generally, first pruning is recommended after 5-6 months of planting. Whereas second pruning should be done after 1 year.
  • The end of winter is an ideal choice for pruning lemongrass.
  • The use of a sharp knife is essentially important to cut the slice of lemongrass.
  • All dead grasses must be removed from the stalks to minimize any adverse effects on growing plants.
  • Harvest lemongrass every six months. There is no requirement to wait for a specific season or time for harvesting. Moreover, young and tender plants can also be harvested for cooking.
  • Use fork or hand towel for removing individual stalks with roots.
  • Regularly inspect the plants for early detection of insect pests, nutritional deficiencies, and diseases.
  • Lemongrass produces allelopathic compounds so their plantation along with other plants should be carefully planned.
  • Lemongrass is more prone to spider mites so growing plants must be sprayed with insecticidal soaps or water.
  • Powdery mildew can attack the growing lemongrass in the damp soil. This problem can be reduced by the use of organic fungicides.

How to Treat Root Rot and Other Diseases on Lemongrass

The common disease of lemongrass includes root rot, smut, grey blight, leaf blight, clump rot, leaf spot, and malformation of inflorescence. Little leaf disease is caused because of virus and causes size reduction of leaves and compromised flowering inflorescence. Rust attack causes browning of foliage and the appearance of yellow-colored faint spots on the foliage. Sometimes brown pustules can also appear on the foliage and if left untreated it can cause the death of plants.

The problem can be minimized by removing and dumping the infected plants. Careful removal is essentially important to reduce the further spreading of disease. Leaf rust causes the development of dark brown, stripe-like, and elongated lesions on both sides of the leaves. This problem can be reduced by spraying contact fungicides on the plants.

How to Deal With Insects and Pests on Lemongrass

The common insect pests of lemongrass include termites, nematodes, spittlebug, stem borer, and mealybug. A pest problem can be greatly minimized by maintaining neat and clean growing conditions. Usually, the pest attack causes root damage, stunted growth of plants, death of tillers, and drying of clumps. Grass bagworm is the most common insect pest of lemongrass and it produces sharp holes in the leaves by eating them roughly and unpleasantly.

Yellow sugarcane aphids and some other types of aphids are well known for sucking lemongrass leaf sap. Spider mites can easily attack the lemongrass in indoor growing conditions. The populations of these insects can be reduced by using neem oil, insecticidal soap sprays, and water sprays. Extensive care and management of lemongrass during winter is essentially important to minimize the probability of disease development and insect pest attack.

Integrated Management Practices to Reduce Diseases and Pests on Lemongrass

  • Use organic fertilizers, mulches, and compost to promote the vigor and growth of growing plants.
  • Maintain 24 inches of distance between the individual plants.
  • Close plantation causes good habitat and hiding spaces for the insect pests. Moreover, no distance between plants also favors the fast-spreading of diseases.
  • Purchase plants from trusted retailers only.
  • Periodically thin, cut back, and prune the plants to stimulate disease-free growth.
  • Immediately destroy the diseased plants.
  • Never use the diseased or infected leaves as a mulching material for other plants or crops.
  • Remove the weeds immediately after emergence.
  • Use well-drained soils to avoid the water stress on growing plants.
  • Reduce the use of overhead irrigation.

Why do mosquitoes hate lemongrass?

Lemongrass contains citronella oil that helps to repel mosquitoes from the surroundings. Although it is helpful to repel mosquitoes, its plantation does not cause complete repulsion of heavy infestation at homes and living spaces. Lemongrass contains citronella oil, but it is not released to the environment when the plant is still alive. However beneficial results can be obtained by planting many lemongrass plants in a specific space.

Lemongrass leaves can be used to make spray against mosquitoes. This spray can be made by adding lemongrass and water to the pots. The boiling causes the yellowing of water. The water must be allowed to cool and set for at least 24 hours. This mixture can be added to the spray bottle for further use. However, it must be protected from contamination as otherwise its effectiveness will be reduced.

However, the burning of lemongrass leaves is not helpful to repel mosquitoes. Burning its leaves may irritate the nose and bad smell at home so its burning must be avoided. Whereas the addition of essential oils to the above-mentioned prepared mixture is significantly important to get better results.

Citronella found in the lemongrass is not only helpful to repel mosquitoes but is also effective to deter Gants, ants, ticks, and flies. Planting lemongrass as a companion plant next to flowers and plants being affected by the nuisance pests is also an effective technique to protect them from insect pests. Furthermore, citronella extract can be sprinkled over the growing plants and smaller clippings can be added in the growing spaces to repel notorious insects.

Companion Plants For Lemongrass

Lemongrass is a good companion for numerous plants such as thyme, mint, marigold, lemon verbena, cilantro, basil, ginger, mangoes, turmeric, onion, and fennel. Other than this pepper, tomatillos, and tomatoes also enjoy growing along with the lemongrass. While some ornamental herbs such as hibiscus, geraniums, and flowering summer bedding plants are also growing well with the lemongrass.

Hoya Pubicalyx Care and Management Guide

The Hoya Pubicalyx is a flowering plant belonging to the Hoya genus species and is known to be native to the Philippines. This plant has lanceolate and succulent foliage and has a vining growth habit, so it grows epiphytically. It grows well as a houseplant in the temperate climatic regions and is also available in the variegated forms in some gardening stores and nurseries. Often its leaves are mottled with slivery variegated flecks and the level of variegation is dependent on its exposure to sunlight. There are numerous cultivars of this species and growers can decide according to their personal preferences.

The Hoya Pubicalyx produces star-shaped fragrant flowers of purple, pink and red color. The color of flowers is dependent on the type of cultivar and the level of care and management. On average the mature plants can reach a height of about 8-10 feet. Its leaves are narrow and their size ranges between 5-12 cm in length and 5-6 cm in width. This plant is also known as a wax plant because it produces glossy and thick leaves. It is a low-maintenance plant and requires minimal care for growth, but growers must do some care to avoid compromised and stunted growth.

USDA Zones

This plant grows well in the USDA hardiness zone 10. It can also be grown indoors in the other zones, but the management of the right conditions, temperature, and humidity is a must factor to ensure good growth.


This plant grows well in well-drained and good structured loamy soils. Growers can add good quality and contaminant-free compost, organic matter, and potting mix to improve the properties of growing media.


This plant grows well in the soil pH range of 6.5-7.5. Although slight fluctuation from this range will not cause major damage to the growing plants the management of the right pH according to the mentioned range is significantly important to ensure good uptake of nutrients by the plants. Growers can always adjust the pH of the soil and grow media by the addition of amendments after pH testing.

Sunlight Requirements

Hoya Pubicalyx grows well in the presence of indirect and medium to bright sunlight. This plant can be placed near the window in indoor conditions. The use of grow lights is greatly recommended for the areas that are not receiving enough sunlight to support their growth. The plant must be protected from the intense direct sunlight in outdoor conditions. It is also possible to protect the plant by covering it with a clean cloth that can allow some aeration and sunlight penetration.

Never place the plant in the bright sunlight during the peak sunny hours as it can cause scorching and leaf burning. Healthy growing and blooming plants require at least 6 hours of exposure to the indirect bright sunlight so growers must manage the lighting requirements accordingly. Various scientific studies have shown that placing this plant in the morning and evening sunlight for 1-2 hours helps to grow beautiful foliage.

Watering Requirements

Hoya Pubicalyx is a drought-tolerant and hardy plant so it can grow well even after some negligence. The fact is that all growing plants need some water to continue metabolic activities and nutrient absorption from the soil. Therefore, controlled regular watering must be done during the growing season. Growers can make a watering schedule according to the prevailing climatic conditions and soil moisture contents. Checking the moisture levels in the soil is the best way to avoid watering stress and diseases. Check soil moisture by inserting fingers in it and water if the upper 2 inches of the soil is dry. A light sprinkling of water is enough if the only top layer is dry. More watering intensity is required if the subsoil in the container is also dry.

Growers should not allow the subsurface to get too dry as it will negatively affect the microbial communities and soil biota. The use of filtered water or rainwater is greatly recommended for this plant as it encourages better growth. Impure and contaminated water can cause adverse effects on its growth and maturity so growers must avoid tap water for this plant. The watering requirements of this plant are moderate, and the average watering frequency is only once in 7 days in the winter season and two to three times a week during the summer seasons. The watering requirements of growing plants greatly vary according to the prevailing climatic conditions.

Plants need less water on cloudy days during the summer seasons so estimating the soil moisture contents is greatly recommended before the next watering. Moreover, the watering requirements are also variable according to the nature of growing media. Hoya Purbicalyx grown in the peat-based grow mix requires optimal watering. Whereas these plants grown in the lighter soil mix requires deep watering until the applied water starts escaping the drainage holes. Never allow the water to stand in the soil or grow mix as it can cause root rotting, leaf dropping, and development of diseases. Discard the excess water immediately after the drainage and don’t allow this water to stay in the saucer. This is rewarding and easy to grow plant and forgive the skipping of 1-2 irrigations.


Maintain the temperature between 5-25 degrees Celsius in indoor conditions. This plant is sensitive to frost so avoid growing in the cold outdoor regions. Never allow the indoor temperature to fall too low as it can cause direct death of the plant.


It is a tropical plant so it loves to grow in humid conditions. Maintaining 60-70% humidity in the surroundings is the best way to support good growth. The use of humidifiers is the best way to improve humidity in drier climates. Gently mist its leaves by using a water spraying bottle. Evaporation of water creates enough moisture around the growing plant to support its humidity requirements.

Avoid misting at the budding and flowering stage as it can cause reduced flower formation. It is important to note that plants need less water when its surrounding is more humid so growers must avoid overwatering in humid climatic conditions. Also keep these plants at some distance from air conditioners, heaters, and vents.


This plant is not a heavy feeder, but its growth is greatly improved by the application of fertilizers. The use of organic fertilizers is greatly recommended as synthetic chemicals are harmful to surroundings, soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem functioning. The application of liquid fertilizers with a high dose of potassium helps to promote flowering in this plant. A monthly dose of diluted fish emulsion and compost tea also helps to improve soil quality and plant growth on a sustainable basis.

The use of inorganic fertilizers is not inhibited but it is important to maintain a good balance of organic and inorganic fertilizers. Fertilization at the start of blooming season and bud formation helps to ensure good quality and larger-sized flower formation. The plant goes under dormancy during the winter season so avoid fertilizing the plant at this time. Always do watering after fertilizing because the best use and uptake of fertilizers can only be ensured when the soil is damp.

Some common nutritional deficiency symptoms for this plant are as follows.

Potassium deficiency: It causes the appearance of the tan color on the leaf edges and closer growth of new leaves on the stems.

Phosphorus deficiency: It causes the appearance of rust color on the leaf edges and completely ceases the new growth.

Nitrogen deficiency: It causes yellowing of lower and older leaves followed by falling off and stunted growth due to lack of chlorophyll.


Each flower can reach a size of 0.4 cm and numerous tiny flowers join together to make a bouquet-type cluster. These clusters appear on the tips of peduncles and are connected to the main stem via a stem-like tiny structure. Late spring to late summer is the peak flowering time for this plant. Its flowers produce a strong fragrance that is even more prominent at the night. The flowers are also waxy and grow on the smaller stalks having a length of less than one inch.

The plant can start blooming after 1-2 years of planting and the flowering initiation is variable according to the type of cultivar, care, management, and prevailing climatic conditions. Removal of stalks after blooming season should be avoided because it can delay the blooming time. Allowing the old stalks to stay on the plants helps to grow new flowers in less time. Moreover, it also helps to save the energy that the plant has to use for the development of new stalks. More blooming can be ensured by keeping the plant in the sunlight, but direct exposure of the plant to intense and scorching light should be avoided.


It is a low-maintenance plant and can survive well with little care and no pruning. Spring and summer season is the ideal time for pruning this plant. Pruning after the blooming season is also helpful to ensure better growth and development. Trimming leaves from the lower plant parts helps to improve the overall look and beautification of the plant.

Prune larger growing stems and plant parts and use these for new growth and propagation in the new pots. It is important to remove all damaged, and dead stems, yellow leaves, and diseased parts to avoid the further spread of the problem. Always wear gloves during pruning and cutting because the sap from the cut parts can cause skin allergy.

Hoya Pubicalyx Growing Tips and Guide

  • Use fertile, loose, and well-draining soil.
  • Frequently water the top 2-3 inches of the soil to avoid drying.
  • Place the plant in bright but indirect sunlight for better growth.
  • Maintain the temperature between 10-25 degrees Celsius for indoor growth.
  • Grow the plant in the plant outdoors in the recommended zones only as otherwise it will be killed by the temperature extremities.
  • Maintain 60-70% humidity level in the surroundings and use humidifiers and dehumidifiers if required.
  • The plant has a trailing growth habit so provide some support to allow climbing.
  • Fertilize plants at least once a month during the summer and spring seasons.
  • Regularly check the plants for disease attacks and insect pest populations.
  • Prune it in the spring for aesthetic purposes only. However, removal of diseased and dead parts is a must practice.
  • This plant is not toxic but can cause some skin allergies, irritations, and health concerns so are careful while cutting and dealing with the sap.

How to Propagate Hoya Pubicalyx

Propagation through leaf-cutting and stem cutting is the ideal and easiest way of propagation. Spring and summer are active growing seasons for this plant and growers must propagate it during this time to get good results.

  • Use sterilized scissors or pruning shears to prune the plant. The gardening tools can also be sterilized by using isopropyl alcohol.
  • Cut five to seven inches cutting from healthy growing stalks having good nodes.
  • Remove all the leaves on the lower end.
  • Place the cuttings indoors in the shade to allow the healing of tissues.
  • Plant the cuttings in the soil or grow medium by keeping the nodes in the soil to a depth of about 4 inches.
  • Generously water the soil three times a week to keep it moist until the start of the growing season.
  • Keep the plants in a humid and warm place where they can receive bright indirect sunlight.
  • Root development can be observed 3-4 weeks after planting the cutting in the soil.
  • The rooted cutting can be repotted after to boost new growth and development.
  • Choose a partially shady and sunny location to protect foliage from burning.
  • The use of zip lock and plastic bag method is also helpful for propagating the Hoya Pubicalyx.
  • Placing the cuttings in the potting mix and sphagnum moss helps to produce better growth than the soil media alone.

Growing Hoya Pubicalyx from Seeds

This plant is very easy to grow from seeds but the selected seeds must be of good quality and free from contaminants.

  • Store the seeds in the dry and dark location to get good germination and vigorous seedlings.
  • Sow the seeds in a good quality potting mix or peat moss-based soil mixture.
  • Provide enough humidity and light to ensure germination.
  • The maximum temperature during the daytime should be maintained at about 25 degrees Celsius.
  • Sow its seeds indoors to ensure better germination.
  • Regularly water the soil to keep it moist. Avoid overwatering.
  • Cover the container or pot with a plastic bag for protection of the plant from cold and wind.
  • Germination can be observed after two to five weeks of sowing and germination time is dependent on environmental conditions.

Potting and Repotting Hoya Pubicalyx

This is a vigorously growing plant and can gracefully and easily spread on all sides of the pot. Therefore, the selection of the right pot size and type is greatly important to get better looks. It is not a root-bound plant, so repotting is not a major requirement for its better growth and development.

This plant requires good drainage and climbs upward so the provision of some vertical support will be helpful in both aspects. The use of terracotta pots is also a good choice to ensure good drainage. While the use of larger containers is essentially helpful to keep this plant root-bound.

Common Problems and How to Treat

Hoya Pubicalyx is a long-lasting, rewarding, and easy to manage plant and can be easily grown in containers. Growers can place it both indoors and outdoors and can be placed in the windowsills, patios, and porch. However, the presence of insect pests and diseases can cause severe damage to its foliage and flowers. Its flowers and sweet-smelling can attract numerous pests and bugs.

  • Mealybugs

Mealybugs are common pests infecting all Hoya species and can be controlled by using insecticides and proper management. Spray the plants with neem oil and water spray to remove mealybugs. Rub isopropyl alcohol-based cotton swabs on the leaves and stems to kill mealybugs.

  • Aphids

Aphids are commonly found on all household plants and can be seen on the backside of the leaves, base of stems, and flower buds. These can be easily removed from the plants by using the gentle water stream from the hose, insecticidal soap sprays, organic and inorganic pesticides. The use of inorganic and chemical-based pesticides is greatly discouraged as these are harmful to pets, children, beneficial insects, and the environment.

  • Whiteflies

Whiteflies are sap-sucking smaller insects that are commonly found on indoor plants. The population of whiteflies especially rises during the summer season so growers must be more careful at this time. Their higher infestation can cause leaf drying, falling, and yellowing. The use of yellow sticky traps is the best way for monitoring and control their populations. Optimal use of insecticidal oils and soaps also favors reducing whiteflies populations on a sustainable basis.

  • Root Rot Nematodes

Root rot nematode is the worst pest of Hoya Pubicalyx and can cause significant quality losses. Some of the major symptoms of this pest include stunting, yellowing, and wilting. These nematodes survive well in the warmer areas and can cause the complete death of plants in case of severe infestations. These nematodes cause damage to the rooting system of the plants and thus the overall health of plants is negatively affected.

Growers must remove the infected plants immediately to prevent further spread. Seed treatment before sowing and soil treatment before planting helps to minimize the root rot nematode infestations on the plants. The addition of organic matter and compost to the soil or growing medium is also helpful to promote the biological control of root rot nematodes.

Disease Development

Most of the Hoya Pubicalyx diseases develop due to overwatering and are related to soil moisture or fungal infections. Maintenance of moderate moisture levels is significantly helpful to reduce the problem of disease development.

  • Sooty Mold

It is also known as black mold and usually develops on the leaves of numerous plants. It makes nectar-like sugary liquid and appearance of black spots on the leaves. Nectar from flowers and honeydew from the pests are major reasons for sooty mold development on the plants. It can be easily removed from the plants by gently wiping with a wet paper towel or cloth. Immediate removal of pests and nectar flies is also helpful to reduce the appearance of sooty mold on the plants.

  • Blight

Blight is specifically a fungal infection and it can affect all parts of the growing plants. Common symptoms of blight include the appearance of gray patches on the stems and leaves of the plants. Severe infections can lead to the mushy appearance of plants and leaf drooping. Further spread of blight can be reduced by immediately removing the infected parts.

The use of copper-based fungicides is also a recommended approach to get rid of blight. However only recommended concentrations of this pesticide should be used to avoid adverse effects on growing plants. Lowering environmental humidity, avoiding overwatering, and misting are also helpful to reduce the blight problem on a sustainable basis.

  • Leaf Yellowing

Yellowing of older and lower leaves is a sign of trouble and can be avoided by using proper care and management. Avoiding overwatering, allowing proper exposure of the plant to sunlight, and controlled irrigation scheduling are the best practices to avoid leaf yellowing. Moreover, fertility testing is also a good way to get an idea about the nutrient deficiencies and toxicities in the soil because nutritional imbalances can also cause leaf yellowing.

Varieties of Hoya Pubicalyx

  • Royal Hawaiian Purple

This plant has green leaves with specifically greyish or silver patterns and produces black or pinkish-red clusters of flowers.

  • Red Buttons

This variety produces dark, purple-colored flowers having a reddish center. Purple and red blotches are also evident on its green leaves.

  • Black Dragon

This variety produces lime green leaves without any marks and black flowers with red centers. The blooming of this plant can be achieved by placing in the optimal sunlight or providing light by the means of artificial grow lights.

  • Pink Silver

This cultivar produces green leaves having silver splashes. The color of its leaves turns pinkish silver in the presence of sunlight and thus it is named pink silver due to this feature. Its flowers have light red color and pink colored small centers.

Some other popular varieties of this plant include silver sheen, jungle garden, dapple gray, and bright one.


Is it possible to remove hard water spots from its leaves?

Yes, these spots can be easily removed from the leaves. Take a pint of red or white vinegar and add it to the warm water to make a solution. Dip a small paper towel, or clean cloth in the prepared solution and gently rub the leaves in a circular motion. Properly rinse the leaves with contaminant-free water and dry the rinsed leaves with another paper towel or cloth.

Why is my Hoya Pubicalyx plant not blooming properly?

Less exposure to light is the most common reason for no blooming in the Hoya Pubicalyx. Blooming can be achieved by keeping the plant in the bright indirect sunlight and providing all essential inputs most appropriately.

Is it possible to train these plants to grow in a specific path?

Growers can easily train growing plants to grow along a specific path such as these can be directed to climb at any wall, tree, or hanging planter in the home. These plants have vining growth habits and can grow to a length of 20 feet by the proper training. Any vertical support or bamboo can be placed in the center of the pot. It is also possible to tie the strings and twines so that plants can spread in all possible directions or patterns.

Is the Hoya Pubicalyx toxic in nature?

This plant contains milk-type fluids in its structure that have toxic nature. Contact with this sap or consumption of this fluid can cause skin allergy and health issues. Therefore, pets and children should not be allowed to touch this plant.

Is the Hoya Pubicalyx a succulent?

Hoya Pubicalyx is not a succulent plant. Although it has waxy leaves, it does not belong to the category of succulents.

Does the Hoya Pubicalyx have a deep rooting system?

Hoya Pubicalyx has an epiphytic rooting system and can grow on other plants and trees. Typically it has a shallow rooting system in the soil so can be easily grown in the pots and containers

Where to buy the Hoya Pubicalyx?

If you’re looking to add character to your space in a fun and unique way, then you may want to consider getting a face planter. These unique pieces of art make great conversation starters while giving your flowers and plants a place to grow. There are a variety to choose from, which is what we are going to discuss in this post. We will look at the best ones for indoor, outdoor, and the types of plants ideal for each one.

What is a face planter?

A face planter is exactly what the name suggests… It is a flower pot-like planter that is made in the form of a head with a prominent face. You can find them small enough to be the centerpiece of a table or big enough to be statue-like outside on your porch or lining your driveway.

The faces also come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and looks. From a happy and cheerful face to a sad or droopy face, you can find just about every kind of expression. In addition to face types, some also come in the form of a half-face or on top of short legs. As you’ll see below, they can get pretty eclectic!


What are the best flowers and plants for face planters?

Since the flower and/or plant portion of the planter will act as the planter’s “hair,” you can get pretty creative with how you want it to look. There are many plants to choose from, but here are some of the most sought after plants and looks:

  • Spider plants: gives the appearance of wild hair.
  • Ornamental grass: also gives the appearance of a wild hair do.
  • Succulents: can give the appearance of a very chic and unique updo.
  • Christmas cactus: flowy and colorful.
  • String of pearls: gives a flowy look of pearly (or braided) hair.

The choice of what kind of plant or flower to put in your face planter is totally left up to you and your style. If you don’t quite have the green thumb to keep plants alive, you can always use artificial plants. These are easy to take care of (just give them a good dusting every so often) and you can easily change them out when you’re ready for a new look.

One of the main things to keep in mind if planting real plants is to provide a drainage hole so your plant doesn’t die from being waterlogged. While most planters come with holes or drainage systems, you may need to be prepared to put a few holes in the bottom. This can usually be done by using a small drill bit. Always check with the material of your face planter before drilling holes so you don’t crack it.

How to Plant in a Face Planter

When you take a good look at a face planter, it can seem a bit confusing about how to actually transfer a plant into one. Whether you’re going with a succulent or some other kind of plant, there is an easy way to do it to ensure your plant isn’t disturbed.

Step 1: Soak your pots in water.

Depending on the size of your face planter, you’ll most likely have small pots of plants (typically 2” pots). Place them in a shallow dish filled with water. This will allow the soil to soak up the water from beneath your plant (versus having to pour water over them once planted). When the soil turns dark, that is your indicator that they’re ready.

Step 2: Place a coffee filter in the bottom of your face planter.

If your planter doesn’t have drainage holes, be sure to add a few before placing the coffee filter in the bottom. The coffee filter will keep your soil mix from falling out of the bottom.

Step 3: Fill the planter with potting soil.

When filling your planter with potting soil, leave a dip in the middle for placing the plant and the soil attached to it. Also be careful to not fill the sides with soil. This will prevent soil from washing over once you water your plant.

Step 4: Place empty pots inside the face planter.

This will help give you an idea of if more soil needs to be added. If so, now is the time to do it. Also, it is best to use the empty pots that your plants came in. Fill in the gaps and holes with soil and really pack it in. The soil will settle over time and you’ll want to consider “hair” placement once your plant starts to grow.

Step 5: Remove empty pots and replace them with your plants.

The pots served as a guide, so to speak, for this step, which is when you’ll add your plants into the face planter. The plant should fit snug into the hole created by the pot it was once it. By doing this, you are providing a non-invasive way of transferring your plant from its pot to the face planter.

This method will work for any size planter and with any type of plants you decide to put into your planter.

12 Best Face Planter Ideas

The suggestions below will be broken up into indoor and outdoor options. I’ll also be sure to mention the material as well.

Top Indoor Face Planters

Bossa Linda Head Wall Planter

Bossa Linda Head Wall Planter | 3 Colors Available | Unique Face Planter for Indoor Wall Decor | Planter Pots for Outdoor Plants, Cute Plant Pots, Succulent Cactus Head Planter Pot - Tranquilo Design

Face planters aren’t just meant for tables. You can also find wall face planters like this one. It is made from concrete and has a sturdy metal hanger. This one is unique as you can use it indoors or outdoors. The dimensions are 6.5in tall x 5in wide x 3in deep. The head planter cavity is 5in wide x 5.5in deep. This wall head planter has a concealed drainage hole on the bottom to drain excess water and protect your plant’s roots.

Closed Eyes Head Planter

AIMEBBY Face Flower Pot Head Planter Pot Succulent Planter Cute Resin Cactus Planter with Drainage Hole Closed Eyes

Made of high-quality resin, this durable and lightweight planter is designed for long-term use. You can grow mini cute plants in the head planter, such as herbs, succulents, or cacti. The cute face planter has a drainage hole to drain excess water and protect the plant’s roots. The opening diameter is 3.74 inches with a  bottom length of 2.76 inches and a height of 6.7 inches.

Large Ceramic Head Planter Pot

Ceramic 8 Inch Large Head Planter Pot - Self Watering Face Planter Pot for Plants with Drainage Holes. White Face Vase Planter Head Flower Pot. Dual Use as Head Vase or Face Planter. Fun Gift

This decorative plant pot with a drainage hole system comes in a large size of 8″ high x 6.3″ wide to accommodate a variety of indoor plants comfortably. To ensure ultimate practicality with mess-free utilization, this user-friendly face pot for plants comes armed with a perfectly sized removable plastic inner container with drainage holes and absorbent cotton wick. Simply add water to the base of the face planter, which will then get absorbed up the wick to self-feed thirsty plants without the need of constant watering or messy saucers.

Terracotta Face Planter with Glasses

Face Planters Pots,Terracotta Plant Pot Unglazed Modern Ceramic Human Face Vase Succulent Head Planter Pot Indoor Face vase Clay Bonsai Containers with Drainage Holes /Saucer (5.12 inch-Small)

Made of top-quality clay and baked at high temperatures, this terracotta planter promotes drainage and breathability. It is a cute cartoon abstract head face planter with glasses, which leaves the design of the boy’s hairdo up to your creative touch. The small hole at the bottom allows for easy drainage and cleanup without the need for a tray.

Zen Face of Buddha Face Planter Pot

ART & ARTIFACT Head of a Man Indoor/Outdoor Planter - Handpainted Resin Zen Face of Buddha Flower Pot - Plants Look Like Hair, 9

This resin-made Head-of-a-Man pot features the tranquil expression of a meditating Buddha. Add a houseplant to give this serene-looking gentleman his own hair. The possibilities are endless – long, short, curly, straight, spiky, soft, bursting with flowers, or a single dramatic bloom. It measures about 8″W x 9″H x 7″D.

Ceramic Half-Face Face Planter

GeLive Indoor Ceramic Face Planter Cute Head Succulent Plant Pot Modern Statue Artistic Flower Vase Bonsai Windowsill Box Urn for Home Decoration (Large, White)

Considered a modern unique head plant pot, this planter is half of a head face shape with a minimalism style. It will look great among the “regular” pots. It’s made of top quality porcelain with a smooth, silky finish making it elegant, clean-looking, and decorative all in one. Use it to brighten up any space. Size: 4.3″ x 4.3″ x 3.5″.

Top Outdoor Face Planters

Female Head Design Face Planter

YIKUSH Female Head Design Succulents Plant Pot with Drainage Hole/Cactus Planter Indoor Outdoor Resin Planter, Cute Plants Flower Pot,No Plant

Made of High-quality Resin, this plant pot is lightweight and durable to use. The Planter’s cavity is approximately 4.92″ wide x 4.92″ deep. The whole pot size is 8.67″ height x 6.3″ width x 7.48″ length. The planter is made with a drainage hole that has a removable rubber stopper that meets your demand for directly planting plants in the pot. It also comes with 4 invisible rubber flower pot feet on the bottom of the pot. The wide and sturdy base keeps the head pot steady when you change plants, prune, or water your plants.

Goddess Head Design Face Planter

FOVERN1 Goddess Head Design Succulents Flower Pot, Lady Face Planter Pots with Drainage Hole, Head Planter Pot Succulent Planter Resin Planter for Indoor/Outdoor Plants Home and Garde (Gold)

The exquisite carving makes the image of the goddess come into being. The lady head planter originates from the goddess in ancient Greek mythology. It has the beautiful meaning of bringing good luck and health to people. When you fill it with bright flowers or artificial plants, a totally classy artwork appears. The head planter pot is made of high-quality resin material, which includes environmentally friendly and no peculiar smell, sturdy, and not easy to be deformed.

Tree Face Garden Planter

Bits and Pieces - Tree Face Garden Planter - Durable Polynesian Indoor-Outdoor Urn for Plants - Forest Inspired Whimsical Garden Décor

Add a touch of forest magic with a planter featuring the face of an old man emerging from the stump of a tree. Sculpted of cast polyresin, the wood grain base and bark accents are painstakingly hand painted in realistic detail. It measures 5-1/4″ x 4-3/4″ x 5-1/2″, and comes with a drainage hole.

Funny Expression Head Planter

Head Planter Funny Smile Happy Face Planters Statue, Funny Expression Flower Pot Garden Sculpture Lawn Figurine Ornaments Decoration Indoor Outdoor planters pots (A)

Combines a unique, humorous statue with a functional planter. Hand-painted with a beautiful finish (shades may vary), it is then treated with a weather-resistant UV protectant. Also has a strong cold cast designer resin for years of enjoyment and stable positioning. It is recommended that all outdoor decor and fabrics continue to be treated with to preserve and protect the original appearance from fading, cracking and peeling.

3-Pack Eclectic Face Head Planter

Kelendle 3 Pack Indoor Outdoor Heads Planter Resin Succulent Planter Vase Abstract Statue Planter Urn Home Garden Decor Face Sculpture Office Decoration

The 3 pieces all have combined micro-expressions and exaggerated facial features to create abstract and playful appearances. This also makes them more vivid and lively. Each one has a top with a large opening that allows you to insert different dried or artificial flowers to meet your various creative needs. The unique craftsmanship provides an excellent and smooth touch feeling to effectively prevent your hands from hurting.

The wider and flat base provides good stability to help rest on any smooth surfaces. They are each made of resin, eco-friendly and odorless, lightweight and portable, making them safe and durable to use. The sizes are approximately 6.30 x 4.72 x 3.74 inches; 6.30 x 2.95 x 8.07 inches; 5.51 x 3.15 x 10.43 inches.

Cute Human Head Face Planter

YARNOW Head Face Planter Cute Human Head Face Resin Flowerpot Vase Succulent Cactus Planter for Garden Indoor Outdoor

This charming face planter is suitable for indoor and outdoor use, such as an office, home, garden, kitchen, porch, courtyard, etc. It features a girl shape design, delicate and exquisite, a perfect planter or a home decoration. This cute face planter is made of premium resin material, sturdy, and durable for long-term use.


Buying a face planter to give your space a special touch isn’t hard. All you need to do is go with what you feel drawn to. This is one of those areas where you can truly let your creativity shine through. Some people even like to paint their face planters and decorate them with accessories such as headbands, sunglasses, or face paint (for makeup). The choice is totally up to you. Dedicate a special space for your face planter or fill an entire room, office, or yard with them. They can truly add a unique touch and will definitely become the topics of good discussions.

Start small and build on your stash. Before you know it, you’ll have lots of them. And don’t forget to give them names. If you are on the search for the perfect face planter, use the tips and suggestions above to help you get started.

The monstera pinnatipartita is a beautiful climbing and rare evergreen plant. It is known to have originated from South America and has similar appearances to that of Monstera Deliciosa. It is native to Colombia, Peru, Panama, Venezuela, Bolivia, El Salvador, Costa Rica, and Ecuador and belongs to the family aroids also known as Araceae or arum. Its leaves are divided at the maturity stages and white-colored waxy flowers are produced along with the aerial roots. The appearance of flowers in this pattern favors the wild looks of this plant but is a good option for growing in homes because of its beauty.

It is also known as philodendron silver queen and has climbing evergreen Hemi epiphytes. It can grow to a height of about 33-66 feet in the native climates and habitats but can grow only 4-6 feet in houses and enclosed areas. It produces juvenile, slightly bullate, oval, elliptical, and BI-colored leaves having light green and green variegation.  Its stems are vine-like greenish and have short nodes. Typically, this plant flowers all year round after maturity by right care and management is essentially important to promote flowering.

Monstera Pinnatipartita Growing Guide


Monstera Pinnatipartita grows well in the USDA zone of 11-12 but some growth and development can also be supported in the other zones followed by the right care and management. People living in the USDA zones of 10b-12 can grow this plant all year round, but these plants are sensitive to frost so the exposure of growing plants to cold temperatures must be avoided.

Soil pH

Growers should maintain a pH of soil between 5-7.5 by the addition of organic matter and other relevant amendments. The addition of potting mix helps to maintain soil pH, drainage, health, and overall physical, chemical, and biological properties.


Direct placement of this plant in sunny locations is not recommended because long-term exposure to intense heat can cause sun burning.  It can tolerate mild heat and low sunlight levels, but slow growth becomes evident in the presence of prolonged lighting periods. Moreover, light also causes the darker color of its leaves so must be placed at a place where it can receive minimum light of optimal intensity. However, its growth and development can be accelerated by placing it in the bright light in the morning for one hour. Never forget your plant in the sunlight as the damage caused by the sunburn will be difficult to manage.


Water the plants when growing media or soil is completely dry. The water requirements of growing plants are greatly dependent on the surrounding conditions such as humidity, temperature, and the amount of light the plant receives on daily basis. Generally, these plants must be watered once a week, but growers should water them twice if the drainage capacity of soil is good and the plant is being grown in warmer climatic conditions.

Periodical watering is greatly recommended for these plants as it is something that helps plants to get used to specific irrigation intervals and scheduling. Continue watering the plant until water starts emerging from the drainage hole of the pots. Plants can also be watered by placing their roots in the water and the required amount of water will be absorbed by the growing media and plant roots.

The use of heavy soils, oversized pots, and excessive watering can cause yellowing of the leaves. Overwatering for longer periods can cause brown spots, root rot, leaves dropping, wilting, a mushy stem base, and moldy potting mix. While underwatering can cause leaf curling, drooping, loose leaves, wilting, and stunted growth.


This plant requires average humidity levels in its surroundings and any fluctuation from the normal levels affects its growth and development. Increasing humidity to a certain level is a good aspect to improve its growth because it is a humidity-loving plant by nature. However, some growers may enhance humidity to much more level than required so they must be careful to maintain humidity in their surroundings.

Moreover, indoor placement of certain plants requires uniform growing conditions, so increasing humidity to a greater extent for one plant may cause death or injuries to the other indoor growing plants. Ideally, 60-80% humidity should be maintained in the growing environment and the humidity levels should be checked regularly.


Monstera Pinnatipartita must be fertilized at least once a week in the summer and spring conditions. Fertilization can be reduced after the proper establishment and fast development of the plants. The use of organic fertilizers is a much better choice than synthetic fertilizers so growers should try using compost and potting mix.


This plant grows well in the temperature range of 18-27 degrees Celsius, and therefore it can grow well in the household temperature. Lower temperature than 15.6 degrees Celsius slower the growth and growth is stunted below 10 degrees Celsius. The surrounding temperature must also be maintained in the indoor growing conditions to favor good growth.


Pruning practices for this plant include cutting off diseased, dead, and dry leaves to allow newer growth, deter pests, and boost growth. Growers can also prune the plant to control its shape and size of the plants. The best time to prune the plants is during the growing seasons. Sterilized pruning knife or shear must be used to avoid insect pest attack and disease spread. Damp cloth must be wiped on the leaves and stems after pruning to repel the insects.

Potting and Repotting

This plant must be repotted after two years of growth or when the pot is properly bound by the roots. Repotting must be done during the growing season to avoid any adverse effects on the plants. Other than the emergence of roots from the drainage holes the leaves of plants will start getting curly and stunted growth will be observed. Some other indications are leggy, discoloration, and drooping of leaves. It is important to select the pots having a diameter of about 2-3 inches. Selected pots must have enough depth to support and accommodate the root while leaving enough space for more growth.

Monstera Pinnatipartita Growing Tips and Guide

  • Give bright light to the growing plant for at least one hour in the morning.
  • Provide good temperature and humidity in indoor conditions for better growth.
  • Rotate the plant periodically.
  • Allow the plant to trail on walls, grills, and totems.
  • Do not place the plant in water for long durations.
  • Wipe the leaves with a clean and damp cloth to remove the dirt on their leaves.
  • Provide sufficient space for better growth and development.

Monstera Pinnatipartita Common Problems and How to Treat


Indoor-grown monstera Pinnatipartita is not prone to insect pests but still, some bug infestations can be observed in this plant. Other common pests of this plant include fungus gnats, spider mites, aphids, scale, and mealybugs. Generalized symptoms of insect pest attack are leaf yellowing with spots, holes, powdery substance, webbing, and honeydew.

Horticultural sprays and neem oil can be used to deter insect pests without causing any harm to the environment. Moreover, manual removal practices and insecticidal soaps can also be used. These soaps can be sprayed directly or can be rubbed by dipping the cotton in the alcohol. The selection of spray and manual practice is dependent on the kind of infestation and type of pests present.


This plant is susceptible to southern blight, powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot, and root rot. The problem of these diseases is not much common for this plant, but the presence of favorable conditions may promote the disease attack. So, the problem can also be reduced to a greater extent by the management and control of growing conditions.

Root Rotting

Root rotting is most evident in this plant and the major responsible factors include lower oxygen levels in the root zones, poor soil drainage, and overwatering. Prolonged rooting can also lead to mushy stem base, wilting, leaf yellowing, and browning. So, the reasons for rotting must be avoided to promote better growth and development.

Leaf Yellowing

Mostly the yellowing of leaves is an indication of overwatering but lack of nutrients, pest attack, underwatering, and diseases can also cause discoloration. Moreover, transportation stress, cold drafts, and aging may also be major reasons for leaf yellowing. The problem can be avoided by proper monitoring and the right management.

Leaf Curling

Leaf curling in this plant is mainly caused due to underwatering. Moreover, pest and disease attacks, light issues, and higher temperatures can also cause leaf curling. Right monitoring of inputs and maintenance of conditions can help to reduce this problem.

Leaf Dropping

The dropping of older and newer leaves may result due to poor management conditions or stresses. Low humidity, underwatering, and overwatering are major reasons for the leaf dropping and the problem can be minimized by proper care and management.

No Splitting

Improper or no splitting in the new foliage may happen due to poor light and lack of climbing support. The attachment of aerial roots with some surface helps for maturity and fenestration of foliage. Therefore, the provision of trellis or moss pole is essentially important to ensure proper splitting.

Monstera Pinnatipartita Propagation methods. Step by step guide.

Usually, this plant is propagated by the means of stem cuttings in the water or potting mix but can also be propagated by division or air layering. Spring is the best time for its propagation as in this season plants will get more time to grow and develop roots. However, propagation practices can also be done in the summer but the efficiency of propagation in the summer will be less than the spring season propagation.

  • Well-drained soil or potting mix is required for propagation. The use of 50% perlite and 50% peat moss is also a good choice.
  • Use of sterilized and clean knife or shear is a must.
  • Use appropriate size pot.
  • The use of hormones and sealable plastic bags is optional, but their use helps for better propagation and growth.
  • Add the potting mix in the clean pot and apply water until the saturated point is attained.
  • Discard the excessive water collected in the saucer.
  • Select a healthy growing plant to cut the stem.
  • Carefully cut the stem of about 4-6 inches having two clear nodes.
  • Remove all leaves on the lower parts of the stem and allow two-three leaves to stay on the upper part.
  • Apply rooting hormone on the cuttings to favor effective rooting and development.
  • Poke the potting mix with the stick or fingers before placing the cuttings in the pots.
  • Cover the two nodes properly with the soil.
  • Tamp the soil lightly so that the cutting is standing in the upward direction.
  • Provide light misting on the cutting, cover, and seal it with the plastic bag. Leave a smaller opening in the plastic bag to allow the movement of air.
  • Alternatively, growers can also poke different-sized holes.
  • Place the pot in a bright location or maintain the temperature between 21-24 degrees Celsius in the indoor growing conditions.
  • Remove the plastic bag routinely to allow breathing for a few hours. Also, mist the soil lightly to keep it moist.
  • Root growth can be observed after three to four weeks of propagation.
  • Cutting can be transplanted to the pots after the development of two to three leaves.

Propagation in Water

Monstera Pinnatipartita can also be propagated in the water. Simply place the cutting in the jar and add water to this container. Roots growth can be observed after three to four weeks. The leaves must not be allowed to submerge in the water. Change the water in the jar after every 3-4 days as otherwise, it will appear cloudy.

Soil vs Water?

Ideally, the seeds of this plant germinate well in the droppings and feces of forest animals. The growth in water is also possible but seeds must be allowed to germinate in the soil. This is an epiphyte plant, and its growth is without the development of the roots. It only creeps above the soil surface and obtains the nutrients from animal droppings, decaying vegetation, organic debris, and air. Although it can grow well in the mineral soil as well, the growing soil must be mixed with the organic matter, compost, peat, muck soil, and potting mix to ensure a good supply of nutrients to the growing plants.

Growers should mix 50% of mineral soil with 50% organic material and compost as the addition of organic matter is also helpful to improve soil health, and soil structure. The drainage capacity of the soil should also be improved as excessive retention of irrigation water may cause problems for the health of growing plants. Specific potting mixes are available for Monstera pinnatipartite and growers can easily purchase it from any online market or nearby store. Some characteristics of these plants are also similar to the Anthurium species so the potting mix of Anthurium plants can also be used to support its growth.

How to Air-Layer Your Monstera Pinnatipartita

This plant can easily be propagated by air layering. Growers need to have twisty ties, sphagnum moss, and six inches transplantation plastic bags.

  • Select a healthy growing node having aerial roots on a leggy and strong stem.
  • Make shallow silt of about ¼ thickness of the selected stem immediately lying below the node.
  • Carefully punch smaller holes at the bottom parts of the plastic sheets and evenly add a fist of moist sphagnum peat moss at its bottom.
  • Cut the upper end of the plastic bag to get flaps for rolling around the stem.
  • Take water-soaked moss in one palm in a plastic bag in such a way that it is against the aerial roots of the selected node.
  • Wrap plastic flaps properly around the stem with the freehand.
  • Secure the moss bag to the selected stem with the help of twisty ties to make a wet cocoon of moss for the node.
  • Water the moss to keep it moist. This watering can be done through the specific holes in the plastic sheet.
  • Root emergence can be evident within two weeks in the moss.
  • Carefully remove the moss and try to keep the roots intact.
  • Cut the stem below the newer roots so that the cutting can be separated from the parent plant.
  • Pot the new cutting or plant and apply water to the soil to keep it moist for supporting proper growth.
  • More success can be achieved by doing this practice for multiple nodes at a time so that if one node gets failed others can catch proper rooting.


Monstera Pinnatipartita VS Split Leaf Philodendron?

The genus monstera and philodendron have a good resemblance to each other, but these are not the same and have significant differences. These plants cannot be cross-pollinated. Some major differences are that the monstera genus has unisex flowers whereas the flowers of philodendrons are bisexual. The leaves of monstera have fenestrations, while philodendrons have split in their leaves.

How to get the bushy look for your Monstera Pinnatipartita?

Generally, this plant tends to get leggy at maturity stages and it does not produce many branches. Still, the bushy growth and appearance can be observed by planting numerous cuttings in one pot.


This plant has mild toxicity hazards and growers must be careful while growing it at home. The ingestion of its leaves and other parts must be avoided. Children and pets should not be allowed to go around this plant as any accidental ingestion can cause toxicity hazards. Its toxicity is due to needle-like, sharp, and microscopic calcium oxalates which are also known as raphides.

Chewing of these raphides will cause a burning sensation and severe pain on the mouth lining. Moreover, it can also cause tongue, lips, and mouth followed by difficulty in swallowing, mouth pawing in pets, refusal to eat, and skin irritation. Gardeners must also use pruning and gardening gloves to avoid injuries.

Some Important Varieties of Monstera Pinnatipartita

Monstera Deliciosa

It is the most commonly grown variety of monstera and produces gorgeous, big, holey leaves. This plant is known as deliciosa due to the production of Mexican breadfruit.

Monstera Borsignia

This plant is delicosa’s variegation and sometimes it is being sold under the name because it is very difficult to differentiate between these plants at the younger stages. Deliciosas plants tend to pucker, ruffler, and produce little cute bumps at the attachment points of leaves and stems. Whereas Borsignia plants grow faster than the delicosas but have smaller growing dimensions. Mature plants make two slits or holes in the willy nilly styles.

Monstera Variegata

These plants have a beautiful color variation and may look like painted with white-colored paint. Variegation of cream, white and green colors is most evident. Its leaves are harder than other varieties and are much more expensive than others.

Monstera Dubia

This variety is well known for its heart-shaped and smaller leaves with light and dark green coloration. It does not have proper variegation but grows like a vine due to its climbing habits.

Monstera Siltepecana

This variety has teardrop-shaped, larger leaves and is provided with smaller holes that are specifically concentrated in the regions of central veins. Often these have lighter colors and contain light green and dark green hues.

Monstera Obliqua

These plants have characteristic holes and can take up to 90% paper-thinned leaves. These plants are extremely delicate and can be easily broken so great care is needed to manage the plant health and vigor. Due to their delicate nature, these are not available in the nurseries but can be found in the botanic gardens.

Mini Monstera

Technically this plant is not monstera but has a monstera type appearance and characteristic holes. The holes in its leaves are larger and appear notched due to the spread of holes toward the edge of leaves. These plants have deep green stunning color and their leaves are more exotic than the other varieties. It does not require much care and management and can be easily grown as a houseplant.


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