How to Grow Lemon Lime Maranta -The Ultimate Guide

The Lemon Lime Maranta is one of the most unique plants in the world. As a prayer plant, it’s moving and shifting throughout the day, so there’s always something interesting going on. They’re usually relaxed and open in the daytime and close up during the evening. 


What makes these plants so great is that they’re easy to grow, are great to keep indoors, are versatile in terms of where you put them, on the floor, or suspended in the air, and since they’re non-toxic, they’re also super safe around pets. 


They’re the quintessential “perfect plant,” but it can be a bit difficult to grow for people that don’t exactly know what they’re doing. 


This post is going to be a complete guide on Lemon Lime Maranta. How to grow it, how to care for it, and how to deal with any possible problems too! 


How to Grow Lemon Lime Maranta

Growing the Lemon Lime Maranta isn’t extremely complicated; granted, you do it using the correct growing method. 


Below are some of the ways that the Lemon Lime Maranta can be grown. 


Growing Lemon Lime Maranta from Seed

While most plants are usually grown from seed, the Lemon Lime Maranta isn’t usually grown this way. That’s because coming by the viable seed of this plant is fairly difficult, and even if it’s found, growing it from seed takes about two years. 


However, those that want to go this route would have to plant their seed in moist soil and keep watering it to keep it slightly moist all the time. The soil should stay between 50 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit consistently for the seeds to be able to sprout. Most people find this method the hardest one, but there are other methods too.


Growing Lemon Lime Maranta from propagation 

Propagation is one of the best ways to grow the Lemon Lime Maranta. For this, only a plant that’s around a year old is going to be ideal. Take a pair of sharp gardening scissors and cut the plant at a stem that has 2 or 3 leaves on it. 


Take the cutting and either place it in water or moist potting soil. Soil is the best bet here as the plant can easily begin to grow. The only thing to keep in mind here is that the crowns of each plant should be around 3-4 inches beneath the soil. Once the stem has been planted, just mist the soil frequently to keep it moist and make sure it remains in a cool environment. Within a couple of weeks, the plant’s roots should begin to spread, and once the plant is in the earlier stages of growth, it can be moved to the main garden or its forever pot if that wasn’t the case already.


Growing Lemon Lime Maranta from Air layering 

A zero effort way of growing Lemon Lime Maranta is by air layering. This is when a fresh pot of soil is placed next to a Lemon Lime Maranta that’s already growing. That’s easy because this plant can easily keep growing even if it’s on the floor. A stem from the existing plant would be able to take root in the new pot and grow from there. 


Caring for the Lemon Lime Maranta:

Once the Lemon Lime Maranta starts growing, it’s going to require specific conditions to grow properly. 



The Lemon Lime Maranta doesn’t need super fancy soil. All houseplant potting mixes would work well here because they’re rich in nutrients. The only thing that needs to be taken care of is that the soil is well-draining, so the root doesn’t accidentally end up rotting. 



Apart from the soil being rich in nutrients and well-draining, it also needs to have a PH of 5.5 to 6.0, about the middle ground in terms of acidity. It’ll allow the plant to grow as fast as possible.



The Lemon Lime Maranta plants like sunlight, but in moderation. They can’t be kept in direct sunlight because their lives are fairly sensitive and can burn. However, they benefit greatly from filtered sunlight or indirect sunlight. So place them at the furthest end of the room, away from the window, or place a curtain or something to make sure it’s not getting too much direct sunlight, and the plant will grow just fine! 



One of the most crucial aspects of this plant’s growth is that it’s never dry. It wants its soil to always stay cool and moist. So it does need frequent watering. If it’s getting a little difficult to figure out when the plant is too dry, get a plant moisture meter to accurately water the plant. This way, it won’t be under or overwatered and will be able to thrive.


Temperature and Humidity 

The ideal temperature for the lemon-lime maranta to grow is the 50 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit window. Any higher and the plant will scorch, and any lower and its growth will get stunted. As for humidity, this plant loves a lot of it. Maintain humidity of at least 65% around the plant to grow as well as possible.



The lemon-lime maranta doesn’t need too much fertilizing, but if the growth is slowing down, start adding fertilizer to it once a month as summer ends until before winter begins. This will give the plant the boost it needs to keep things growing properly. 



The Lemon Lime Maranta isn’t exactly the tallest of plants. It only grows around one foot in height; after that, it begins to spread outwards. That also makes it a great hanging plant because it’ll just begin to cascade down to the floor. 


Growing Tips for Lemon Lime Maranta


  • Use room temperature water to avoid drastically changing the plant’s temperature overall.
  • When potting, add layers of materials like rocks, gravel, and sand to create an appropriately draining system. That way, even if the plant is accidentally overwatered, it won’t pool up in one place and affect the roots.
  • Mist well, but not too often that it develops fungus or other bacterial infections. 
  • If the plant is getting a little dull, bring it over to receive a couple of hours of very light morning sunlight.


Common Problems with the Lemon Lime Maranta and how to treat them 


While Lemon Lime Maranta usually just needs to get strong enough that it starts to grow, there are a couple of problems that the plant might run into that should be dealt with immediately, so the problem doesn’t get worse. 


Leaf Problems

Lead problems are usually the first ones to arise here. If the plant isn’t doing well, its leaves will make it obvious so the problem can be fixed. One of the most obvious warning signs is leaves that are either curling inwards or turning brown. This means that the plant is either getting far too much water, or the water isn’t right. If the tap water it’s being watered with is too high in chlorine or has salt, the plant won’t be able to grow properly. Try switching the water to filtered water instead and see if that improves the condition at all. If it does, install a water filter in your home and use it to water the plant going forward.



Because of how moist the plant needs to stay to grow properly, paired with the fact that the leaves are also on the stickier side, it creates the perfect breeding grounds for mealybugs. These are the bugs that tend to leave a white, powdery residue behind. This type of bug can easily spread across other plants, too, and take over the entire garden. To avoid that from happening, frequently check all of the plants inside the house to make sure there aren’t any signs of mealybugs anywhere. If there is, get a cotton ball, soak it in alcohol and run it across the plants in the areas that the bugs are in. This will kill them immediately and won’t leave the area a viable place for the bugs to spread further.


Root Rot

Root rot is one of the most common problems that plants that need a lot of water tend to go through. It can be a little difficult to figure out just how much water the plant actually needs and when it’s time to stop. When that happens, people often just overwater the plant drastically or underwater it. Either way, unless the plant is being watered exactly how much it needs to be, the roots will get compromised. Use a moisture meter, or just stick a finger, 1 inch into the soil to see if it’s still moist. If it is, don’t water it any further. If it isn’t, you’ll know that it’s time to give it a little spritz. This way, the roots will have moisture, but they’ll still be able to breathe and grow just fine.  




Is Maranta Lemon Lime considered toxic or poisonous to any species?

No, the Lemon Lime Maranta is non-toxic. So it’s completely safe to keep it indoors with people, children, and pets. 


Is Maranta Lemon Lime invasive?

That depends on the living conditions of the plant. In areas that are too hot or humid, the plant can get a bit invasive, so pruning it at appropriate times is the best bet, so the plant does grow, but does it where it’s supposed to be.


Is Maranta Lemon Lime difficult to grow?

For those that are growing the plant from seed, it might be a long strenuous journey because they take years to even sprout. However, growing it through propagation or air layering is fairly easy.


Will Maranta Lemon Lime get flowers?

The Maranta Lemon Lime does have a flower, but it almost never blooms indoors. That’s also why it’s so hard to find its seeds. However, those that are growing outdoors or in the wild,

may have flowers.


Can Maranta Lemon Lime be grown indoors?

Yes, since the Maranta Lemon Lime loves indirect sunlight, so it’s very easy to grow this plant

indoors. However, it does just as well outdoors in the shade as well.


Why has the Maranta Lemon Lime stopped closing its leaves?

Part of why this plant is called a “praying plant” is that it opens and closes its leaves. If it stops doing that, it’s a clear sign that something is wrong. This is usually when the plant isn’t getting adequate sunlight. It’s either getting too much direct sunlight or not enough sunlight altogether. Either way, move the plant around to the point that they want, and it’ll be that much easier for the plant to grow exactly how it needs to! 


All Set to Grow Lemon Lime Maranta

Lemon Lime Maranta might be one of the most beautiful plants out there, but they don’t get there without proper care. But caring for a Lemon Lime Maranta isn’t particularly difficult. They just need their owners to stay a little mindful of what they’re doing, and with it, they’re able to grow and thrive and will stay alive for decades if cared for properly.

How To Grow Philodendron Gigas – A Complete Guide

Philodendron Gigas is one of the most sought-after plants in the world. They’re a bit hard to come by because of their popularity, but those that can manage to find one or just their seed can add a beautiful touch of greenery to their home. 


This post will cover everything one needs to know about growing a Philodendron Gigas in their home. This isn’t a plant that’s too difficult to care for, but the right care techniques will get it to the point where it really thrives! 


What are Philodendron Gigas?


The Philodendron Gigas is from the Araceae family. That means that it’s going to have huge, thick, and velvety leaves that are super bright and vibrant, with light green veins running through the actual leaves themselves. 


One of the most unique things about this plant is the fact that its leaves don’t start out the beautiful green the plant is actually known for. It starts off more of a copper color and even turns back at one point. The final form of the leaves, however, is the bigger, greener leaves that are in a long heart shape.  


This is a plant that does well outdoors and indoors too. If the goal is to have the plant’s flowers bloom too, it’s important to keep them outdoors because the plant can’t really get the environment and the nutrients it really needs to help the flowers bloom. However, some Philodendron Gigas have also bloomed indoors too, but the process takes several years. 


How to Plant Philodendron Gigas?

There are a few different ways to grow the Philodendron Gigas plant. The two main ones are the seed method and the propagation method. 


Growing Philodendron Gigas from seed:

Growing the Philodendron Gigas from seed is a much slower method but is also usually more accessible for people that can’t get the plant as a pre-grown specimen and have to do all of the work from scratch. 


For this method, the seeds have to be planted around ⅓ of an inch under the soil. They don’t need any pre-planting prep or soaking time. They are ready to go straight out of the packet. 


The only care required until the seeds sprout is to make sure the soil is usually moist to the touch and at around 68 and 73 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s fairly cool outdoors, so it might be best to plant it in the fall or just keep it indoors where the temperature can easily be controlled. A thermometer might be best to keep check on the temperature here.


It will take a couple of weeks for the seedling to sprout. After it does, continue to water it and once it’s grown enough that it can be handled without it breaking, move each of the sprouted plants to their own little pot so the roots can grow and spread without having to compete with the plant next to them. 


Growing Philodendron Gigas through Propagation:

Since Philodendron Gigas seeds aren’t very easy to come by, most people grow them by borrowing a healthy Philodendron Gigas stem from a plant that’s already in its later stages of growth. The stem can be taken from a healthy houseplant or one from the wild. 


The only important aspect here is that there is at least 3 inches of stem still there. Take that stem and put it in a container with water in it. It’ll take a couple of days or weeks for new roots to sprout. Once they do, the plant can be moved over to a pot and will continue to grow there. 


Growing Philodendron Gigas – Plant Requirements 

The “Giga” in Philodendron Gigas isn’t just a name. It’s because this plant grows to be pretty massive compared to its original, tiny seedling size. 


On average, a Philodendron Gigas plant will grow to be around 4 feet tall. If they grow exclusively indoors and are taken care of the right way, they can even grow longer than that and climb their way up to the ceiling! 


Here is exactly the care each Philodendron Gigas plant needs to grow as healthy as possible. 



Plants are as good as the soil they’re in. That’s why it’s important to plant them in soil that’s actually going to be good for them. Use soil that’s got good drainage and is high in nutrients for the Philodendron Gigas. If this type of soil isn’t available in the area the plant is being grown in. It’s best to buy nutrient-rich soil to add to the pot before planting the seed or the roots to the plant as a better chance of growing as well as possible. 


It’s also important that the soil both drains well and is able to stay moist after watering. So soil that’s too dry won’t work. However, it’s also important that it’s not so moist that it water logs because that will just ruin the roots, and the plant won’t be able to grow at all. 


The healthier the roots, the better the growth will be!



The Philodendron Gigas thrives only when it’s getting enough water and nutrients. It’s best to water the plant every 4-7 days, depending on how dry the environment it’s in is. An easy way to know if the plant is due for water is by checking the top one inch of the soil. If it’s dry when you touch it, it’s time to water it. 


Some people have trouble figuring out when to water their Philodendron Gigas. For them, it’s a great idea to use a moisture meter because it’ll allow them to know exactly how much moisture the plant needs at which point of the week. 


The plant will need less water in the wintertime than it will in the peak of the summer as the levels of humidity change, and the soil dries out a lot slower in comparison. 



The Philodendron Gigas does enjoy sunlight, but it can’t be direct. With indirect sunlight, the leaves can very easily end up burning, which can eventually kill the entire plant. 


For the plant to really thrive, it’s best to expose it to bright but indirect sunlight. It will need a moderate amount of light exposure every day to ensure that it grows. If it’s getting too much sun, it’ll just burn. On the other hand, if it’s getting too little sun, it just won’t grow properly.


If the room that the plant is in can’t get indirect sunlight, a light cover might help! Otherwise, just place the plant at the furthest end of the room, as far away from the windows as possible. That way, it will get plenty of indirect sunlight because of all the light bouncing around the room throughout the day but won’t burn because no light actually touches it directly. 


Temperature and Humidity 

Philodendron Gigas are moderate, tropical temperature plants. That’s why it’s important that the plant isn’t exposed to extreme temperatures of any kind. 


The temperature that the plant will do best in is the 65 and 80 F range. Any hotter than that, and the plant will stop growing, and any lower, and it’ll actually start to wither and have permanent damage to deal with. This type of damage would mean that the affected leaves would just have to be cut because there’s no way around the damage that’s already done. 


That also means that the people that want to plant this need to live in moderate temperatures or keep the plant indoors to protect it from the elements. 


The Philodendron Gigas has different fertilizer needs according to the area it’s being grown in and the time of year. In the spring and summer times, the plant is going to need a good amount of fertilizer. A once a month update on that front might be best. 


In the wintertime, it’ll need fertilizer a lot less often. Some plants won’t even need any throughout the winter months altogether. Generally, the warmer it is and the more light it’s exposed to, the more fertilizer it’ll need to keep growing properly.



One of the best things about this plant is that it’s a grower. The vines from this plant will naturally grow and spread. However, those that are trying to keep this plant under a certain length would need to make sure they’re keeping the length under control by pruning the very tops of the plant itself. The great thing is that the pruned sections don’t need to go to waste. They can be used to propagate a whole new plant in a different pot as well. 


If any of the leaves of the plant are beginning to scorch, rot, or yellow, it’s best to cut those off, too, so the dead parts of the planet do not end up consuming too much energy, and the leaves that are actually healthy have the best chance at growing.



Because the Philodendron Gigas have leaves that are very velvety, they end up being the perfect breeding grounds for dust particles. If left on its own, the plant will just continue to gather dust and debris. Not only is that particularly unsightly, but it’s also going to get in the way of photosynthesis because it’ll just end up clogging the plant up. 


To avoid that from happening, give the plant a good wipe with a damp, soft cloth. Be extremely gentle so as to not damage the plant as a whole and keep it in the state that it continues to grow properly.


Things to Keep In Mind While Growing Philodendron Gigas 

Now that the basic care requirements are out of the way, here are some of the things to keep in mind while growing a Philodendron Gigas plant.



One of the things that this plant just can’t deal with is overwatering. If the soil doesn’t have appropriate drainage or the plant is just being watered far too often, the pot will become waterlogged, and the super damn soil will take the roots with it. That’s why it’s essential to only water the plant as much as it needs. Any more than that would be too much. Prevent water stress and only water the plant enough to keep things moist. 


Plant Lice

Even though the Philodendron Gigas only needs to be watered once every couple of days, it’s still important to check up on the plant as frequently as possible to make sure there are no inconsistencies out there. One of the inconsistencies you might notice is bugs! Bug-like plant lice can choose a plant like this and just take over in hundreds before someone would notice. That’s why it’s best to keep a check on the plant and wipe it regularly so no bugs make their way onto the leaves and call it home!


Wipe the plant with a water and soap mixture to keep things super clean while the leaves grow. That way, no bugs will be able to set up their colonies in the plant, and it’ll stay as healthy as possible as it grows. 


Lack of Support

The Philodendron Gigas is a vining plant, so it needs to be able to grow up. If the plant seems to be dropping a little bit, add some support ropes or a post in the middle that the plant can just wrap itself around as it grows. That way, it’ll grow healthy and won’t droop all over the place.


All Set to Grow Philodendron Gigas!

The Philodendron Gigas is a plant that really relies on its owner to know how to take care of it. Even though it’ll be able to survive with a newbie owner that doesn’t really know what they’re doing, making sure the plant really gets to thrive, it’s important to know how to really put in the effort and care for it.


With all of the care instructions packed in one place in this guide, any new plant power, or one that’s been in the game for years, would be able to grow happy, healthy Philodendron Gigas for their home!

Caring For Your Hoya Shepherdii

If you are bored of the typical tropical plants with big leaves, Hoya Shepherdii is a breath of fresh air. Aptly nicknamed the String Bean Hoya due to its thin, long, and narrow leaves, this plant will add an interesting twist to any indoor houseplant collection.

Hoya Shepherdii was first discovered in the mountains of the Himalayas and Assam. Soon, its unique foliage coupled with the sweet-smelling, star-shaped creamy blooms had captured the hearts of many, and it started appearing as a houseplant in living rooms around the world. Today, this gorgeous plant is one of the most highly sought-after species of the Hoya family.

Not only does the Hoya Shepherdii look appealing to the eye, but this plant also has a very forgiving nature. So if you are just starting out with your houseplant collection and don’t have a natural green thumb, the String Bean Hoya is a great place to begin. Simple to care for and hardy in the face of neglect, this is a great plant to facilitate your learning about taking care of greens.

This guide below will talk about everything you need to know when starting off with a new Hoya Shepherdii plant in your collection.

How To Care For Your Hoya Shepherdii


If there is one thing that you need to be careful about when rearing a Hoya Shepherdii, it is the potting medium. If the soil is anything other than airy and well-draining, your String Bean Hoya is set up for a whole lot of struggle to survive. Water-retaining soil mixes tend to trap excess moisture between the soil particles instead of letting it run through them, and this creates the most favorable environment for root rot.

To avoid any such problems, make sure that your potting mix allows excellent drainage of excess water. For this, you can either pick up a well-draining mix meant for tropicals off the shelf of your local gardening store, or be a little creative and make a tailor-made concoction for your leafy baby.

For those taking the DIY route, some regular houseplant soil and a few handfuls of perlite, orchid bark, and charcoal are all you need. Mix these ingredients together until you achieve the desired drainage and porosity.


Hoya Shepherdii best thrives in plenty of indirect, filtered sunlight. If you are solely relying on the sun, the plant will need at least 6 hours of bright sunlight to show its best potential. But if you don’t get a lot of sun exposure where you live, you will need to supplement what you get with about 10 to 12 hours of artificial lighting.

Both, too much and too little sunlight does not bode well for Hoya Shepherdii. If the sunlight is harsher or much more direct than this plant requires, you risk getting the leaves scorched and yellowed. On the other hand, if the light is not enough, your Hoya plant will fail to grow and bloom as fast as you would want it to. Hence, an east-facing window is a perfect place to put your Hoya Shepherdii plant, where it gets the best of both worlds.


With its waxy foliage, the Hoya Shepherdii is almost semi-succulent. As a result, the leaves of this plant can hold a lot of water. In addition to this, the aerial roots of Hoya Shepherdii are also designed to draw in moisture from the surrounding air. All of these factors work together to make Hoya Shepherdii pretty drought resistant. So, the low-maintenance plant will continue to thrive even if you forget to water it every now and then.

 What Hoya Shepherdii absolutely despises, however, is over-watering. Too much water that stays in the soil can cause its roots to rot and the plant to wilt. The easy way to avoid this from happening is to only water your Hoya Shepherdii when the top layers of the soil are completely dry to touch. For most plants, this will be once every week or so.


While the low-maintenance Hoya Shepherdii can survive even when the humidity levels are quite low, it needs about 50% to 70% humidity in order to truly thrive. Nevertheless, the String Bean Hoya can beautifully show its true potential and blossom in this ideal humidity level.

Sometimes, it is hard to achieve high humidity levels all year round, depending on where you live. If you reside in a drier region but want your Hoya Shepherdii to bloom as it does in its natural habitat, you can use artificial methods to maintain the humidity level. These include using a humidifier, misting your Hoya every now and then, putting it in a pebble tray, or simply crowding it with other houseplants to trap whatever humidity there is in the surrounding air.


As opposed to other Hoya species that come from the hot and humid South East Asia, the Hoya Shepherdii plant traces its origin back to the cold Himalayas. Thus, it should not come as a surprise that the Shepherdii species prefer a slightly cooler setting than the other members of the Hoya family.

The ideal temperature for Hoya Shepherdii ranges between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. However, this is not to say that it cannot tolerate things getting a little warmer or colder than this. On the contrary, Hoya Shepherdii is a hardy plant that can withstand an extensive temperature range. But while survival is possible at somewhat higher or lower temperatures, the growth of the String Bean Hoya is significantly affected at these temperature extremes.


The vining structure of Hoya Shepherdii makes it the perfect houseplant to hang from overhead baskets and glass bottles. In addition to that, it also makes a pretty picture when allowed to climb up a trellis or a moss pole, or when simply grown in a pot. The vines can reach an impressive six feet in length, cascading down the entire length of a wall and producing beautiful clusters of pale, star-shaped flowers during the blooming period. These blooms emit a unique, sweet fragrance so that they are as much a treat for the nose as they are for the eyes.

The flowering period for Hoya Shepherdii lies between late spring and early summer. During this time, the plant produces and sheds a ton of these sweet-smelling fresh flowers that stay on the stalk for a couple of weeks at a time.


Because the mature Hoya Shepherdii has to work so much every year to produce blooms and grow new vines, it needs a good supply of essential nutrients. This is achieved by treating the plant with a good quality fertilizer every now and then.

You can use virtually any well-balanced, liquid fertilizer meant for houseplants on your Hoya Shepherdii. Just make sure that you are treating it the most in its blooming period, and remember to dilute the fertilizer to 50% of its strength to avoid chemical burns to the plant. Then, as the colder months approach, you can reduce the frequency of fertilizing your plant and completely halt it during the dead of winter.


The Hoya Shepherdii vines can grow to a humongous length, and so, you will need to repot the plant once it grows out of its previous container. It is essential to know that Hoya Shepherdii actually prefers to be slightly root bound, though, so you shouldn’t attempt to move it to a bigger home at the first sign of the roots spreading. 

It is only when the roots start to push through the drainage holes and fight for space that you should consider repotting your Hoya Shepherdii. In most cases, this will be no more frequent than once every two years.

The best time to repot your overgrown Hoya Shepherdii plant is during the active growing and blooming period. In terms of season, this translates to late spring and early summer.

The repotting process itself is easy enough. All you need to do is gently probe the plant out along with its roots intact and move it to a slightly bigger pot that has already been prepared with the ideal potting mix. Avoid choosing a pot that is more than a couple of inches larger in diameter than the older one. This will help the plant adapt to the new home quickly and easily.


If you are concerned about your beloved Hoya Shepherdii plant being toxic to your kids or pets, don’t fret! This harmless tropical beauty is not poisonous in the least! This is yet another reason why the String Bean Hoya makes for such a fantastic indoor plant for every home and office space.


Hoya Shepherdii is an epiphyte and spontaneously sprouts aerial roots. This makes propagating the String Bean Hoya ridiculously simple. If you have a Hoya Shepherdii plant and would like to see more of it spread around your house, you can easily grow it via stem cuttings.

Simply identify a healthy stem with at least one node and a few healthy leaves growing out of it and make a diagonal cut just below the node. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and place it in a previously prepared pot with the appropriate soil mix. Keep the soil moist at all times and cover the stem with a plastic bag to retain optimum moisture and humidity. Within a few weeks, the roots will start to take, and a new plant will begin to grow on its own.

Alternatively, you can propagate stem cutting in sphagnum moss or even just water. When doing so, allow the roots to sprout and grow at least a couple of inches long before attempting to move the new plant into a pot of its own.


As we have already mentioned, the Hoya Shepherdii vines tend to get quite long – even when kept indoors. This is great if you want long trails of your String Bean Hoya to cascade down a wall or hang from an overhead basket. But if you are growing this luscious beauty in a pot, things can get a little messy. In this situation, you can prune and trim the ends that get a little too long to keep things neat and maintain the aesthetics.

Growing Tips and Guide

Want to ensure that your Hoya Shepherdii stays healthy and happy all year round? Here are a few tips that you can use to keep your Hoya Shepherdii problem-free.

  • Be careful about your choice of potting mix. Above all, it should have excellent drainage properties to prevent root rot and other such issues.
  • Hold off on watering the plant if the top layers of the soil are still somewhat damp. The Hoya Shepherdii does not respond well to overwatering.
  • Try to keep a consistent humidity level and surrounding temperature. While Hoya Shepherdii is quite tolerant of different conditions, big changes will put your plant through unnecessary stress, showing its adverse effects in the long run.
  • Try a good quality liquid fertilizer if you want to give your Hoya Shepherdii plant a little boost. It’s incredible what a simple treat can do for Hoya Shepherdii. 

Common Problems and How to Treat them

Like every other plant, Hoya Shepherdii, too, can fall victim to a variety of problems. These issues can be broadly categorized into two classes, pests, and diseases.


The most common pests that attack the Hoya Shepherdii plant are mealy bugs. In addition to these, spider mite infestations and aphids are also a concern with this tropical plant.

All these pests feed on the sap of the Hoya Shepherdii plant to survive. Unfortunately, this takes away essential nutrition from the plant itself, and results in its ill-health. The simplest way to tackle this issue is to use a good insecticide or pesticide.

There are several insecticides and pesticides available for purchase in local gardening stores. But if you would like a more DIY approach, you can also use some diluted Castille soap as a makeshift insecticide. Neem oil also makes for an excellent pest deterrent that is organic to boot.


The most common diseases you will see in relation to Hoya Shepherdii are bacterial and fungal infections. Of these, root rot is the biggest problem faced by Hoya Shepherdii owners around the world. Fortunately, these diseases have a simple causative factor that can be tackled quite easily.

These diseases mainly arise when too much water is swamped up in the soil. This can either be from using a poorly draining potting mix or overwatering your Hoya Shepherdii. Addressing these two issues will help you fight off the bacterial and fungal infections from your Hoya Shepherdii. 

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Can Hoya Shepherdii flower under fluorescent or artificial lighting?

While natural bright, indirect sunlight is best for the Hoya Shepherdii plant, it is not essential for its growth. If you don’t have access to natural sunlight, you can use artificial means to help your String Bean Hoya grow and bloom. When all the other conditions are met, there is not much difference between a Hoya Shepherdii that is grown in natural sunlight and one that has been cultivated under fluorescent lighting.

Does Hoya Shepherdii become dormant?

During the winter months, the plant does not grow as rapidly. However, there is never a state of complete rest or dormancy for the Hoya Shepherdii.

What is the best fertilizer for Hoya Shepherdii?

Any regular houseplant fertilizer works for Hoya Shepherdii. However, for the best results, we suggest a well-balanced NPK liquid fertilizer that has been diluted to 50% of its strength.

Wrapping It Up

And there’s that! By following the directions in this guide, you, too, can have a magnificent Hoya Shepherdii plant decor in your living room. 

Caring For Your Hoya Obscura

The Hoya Obscura is one of the most unique plants in the world. Their glossy, waxy leaves set them apart from the rest of the plants in any garden. This is a type of plant that sticks to its shape while it’s young, and the leaves just grow bigger with time. The only thing that changes is the opacity of the leaves, they get thinner, and lose some of their color in the process, but the overall shape stays the same.

Contrary to what most people think, this plant isn’t very difficult to grow! It requires you to have adequate information to grow it, but if you go in with a plan, you’ll be able to grow Hoya Obscura as if it were just growing in the wild! 

While there isn’t a lot of care required, the right care is key to making sure no matter what plan you’ve decided to grow, it grows well and stays healthy forever. This guide is the starting point to making that happen!

How To Care For Your Hoya Obscura

Here are the basics of caring for your Hoya Obscura. With this information in hand, you’ll be able to grow the plant just right! 


When it comes to any type of plant, soil is quite literally where you start. So make sure that this part is always taken care of. Hoya Obscura needs high quality, light and well-draining. Chunkier soil does best here because it’s very easy for the water to drain through it. That way, even if you’re not particularly careful about watering it the right amount, chances are it’ll be able to drain out the excess water easily and keep the plant root as healthy as possible. 

Regular potting mix does the trick here, so if you already have some left over from the rest of the garden, it can easily be used here too. However, if that’s not available, try adding perlite, and orchid bark or any other additives that could help with the draining and the plant should still be able to grow just fine. 

The point here is to have the soil be as nutrient rich as possible, and have enough drainage that the plant isn’t at constant risk of water logging and is able to get plentiful oxygen through the gaps in the soil. The right soil conditions are essential to making sure the plant grows well.


Even though Hoya Obscura is a houseplant, it’s not one to shy away from the sun. This is a plant that really thrives in sunlight, and needs plenty of it to stay vibrant. If you put it in a spot that’s away from the windows or simply doesn’t get direct sunlight, the colors will start to fade and the leaves might not be able to keep their consistency. 

For best growth, this plant should be placed in direct sunlight for at least 6 hours every day. Placing it near a sun facing window would do best so it’s able to harness all the direct day sun that it possibly can. If that’s not possible, just move the plant to a sunlit area for a few hours in the day, so it’s able to soak the sunlight and keep growing. 


The Hoya Obscura doesn’t really need copious amounts of water. It’s semi-succulent, and can survive just fine with moderate watering here and there. That means that if you’re watering this one like a “regular” plant, chances are that the water will stay trapped in the soil and cause severe water logging. 

It’s best to allow the soil of this plant to partially dry between waterings. It’s better to let the soil dry a little too much than have it be too overwatered. Not only does over watering put the plant at risk for root, but it’ll also be at risk for developing major fungal infections which might end up destroying the planet from the root to the top. 

To avoid overwatering, just use your finger to check how wet the soil is. If that’s too confusing for you, get a moisture meter that will tell you exactly how wet the soil really is so you water it just when it’s dry enough. With accurate readings there’s no need for expert guesswork, just follow the numbers and you’re good. 


Hoya Obscura originates from the Philippines, which means that it likes to be in highly humid areas. The plant prefers being in at least 60% humidity throughout the year. In this type of environment, it’ll grow the best leaves and the color will also stay bright and vibrant. 

While that might be ideal humidity levels, it doesn’t mean that the plant cannot survive without it. It usually does well in average room humidity, so if you’re not using air conditioning or heaters, the plant will be just fine. Just make sure that the humidity levels aren’t falling lower than 30, and it should still be good to go. If you’re noticing the leaves turning brown slightly, or the foliage isn’t doing that well, it’s a sign that the humidity levels are too low and need to be raised. 

If your area doesn’t have enough humidity to keep the plant growing the way it’s supposed to, you can get a humidifier. With it, you’ll be able to read the humidity levels of the room, and add extra humidity wherever needed.


Hoya obscura can do well in moderate temperatures, but it does best in 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. During the summer time, when the humidity levels are higher, it can also fare well in 86 to 100 degrees as well. High temperatures and direct sunlight isn’t a problem at all, but anything lower than 55 degrees may cause harm to the plant overall. If your area is prone to frost and freezing temperatures, the plant will not survive and you will have to take extra measures to keep it warm and humid enough to make it through the winter. 



Even though Hoya Obscura leaves are known for being unique, their flowers are a step further up. However, the plant does need a bit of a boost here and there for it to grow the leaves and the flowers as best as possible. 

It appreciates a fertilizing spell every spring to summer. That’s the growing season for this plant and with the extra fertilizer it has an easier time blooming to its full ability. During the growing season, take balanced liquid fertilizer that’s been diluted to about half strength. This way the plant won’t accidentally burn because of over fertilizing. You can add this mixture to the plant about once a month throughout the spring and summer. However, if you think that your plant isn’t really growing the way it’s supposed to, you could also add it every 15 days and see if that makes a difference.

It’s a good idea to stay away from fertilizer during fall and winter. The fertilizing from the growing season will be enough to help it get through the winter too.


While the Hoya Obscura is young, it will seem like the plant will just continue on in the tiny size, but that’s not the case. As it grows older, it’ll start to get quite big. If you’re growing it in a container, as soon as you notice the plant spilling over, get a pole and guide it up. That way, it will be able to grow up instead of all over the place. It’ll make it much easier to handle the plant because it can easily grow to around 8 feet too! 

Even with the pole to climb on, this vining plant can grow very dense, so it will spread out as it gets older. In that case, you’ll have to start pruning it. The general rule of thumb here is to never prine away more than one third of the plant at a time. If you do, the growth gets affected greatly. Steer clear of the spurs so the flowers stay intact, although it is still fine to prune from spurs if you’re trying to get rid of a whole branch. 

The key here is to remember, start slow. You can always prune more, but you can’t bring back something that’s already gone. 


Hoya Obscura – Growing Tips 

Growing the Hoya Obscura isn’t super difficult. The plant will grow well as long as you’re:

  • Maintaining the humidity levels over 30% (60% to be ideal)
  • Keeping it in a warm room
  • Providing ample sunlight to the plant for at least 4-6 hours of the day
  • Watering it just enough 
  • Make sure the soil is well draining
  • Fertilize it when necessary 

With these basic caring steps, the plant will be able to grow just right! 

Common Problems With Hoya Obscura and How to Treat them

Now that we’ve been over the basic care requirements and growing tips, here are some of the most common problems you might have to face while growing the Hoya Obscura, and how you can treat them easily!


This is by far the most common problem most people run into. Hoya Obscura looks like a plant that would need a lot of water, but that’s not the case. Since it’s succulent, you can easily go days without watering it at all and it will actually thrive in that environment.

If you overwater it, you put it at risk for water logging, root rot, and foliage loss. 


Hoya Obscura is usually grown indoors, but even then, it’s not immune to pests. You might notice ants, Mealybugs, or Spider mites on the plant. But that can be taken care of. For ants, just dust a little bit of ant killer on the plant every now and then. Mealybugs can be taken care of with a dab of alcohol on the leaves. Spider mites can be eliminated using insecticide. 

With the pests gone, the plant will grow better and healthier, faster. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I be misting my Hoya Obscura?

If the plant isn’t in a room with adequate humidity levels, you can mist the plant every now and then to raise it. 

How much sun does the Hoya Obscura need?

The plant thrives in direct sunlight, so keeping it by the window all day is best! 

Is my Hoya Obscura not safe for pets?

While the Hoya Obscura isn’t toxic, ingesting the plant might make your pets sick. 

How long does it take for Hoya Obscura to root?

Once you plant the Hoya Obscura, the roots should start to form within three to four week. 


Wrapping It Up

The Hoya Obscura can be a great addition to just about any garden. As long as you’re patient while planting it, and taking care of it throughout the initial growing stages, there will come a point that you barely need to think about the care and constant upkeep of the plant, you’ll be able to take care of it super easily! 

Caring For Your Anthurium Veitchii

Anthurium veitchii is also known as king Anthurium and belongs to the monstera genus. This tropical plant was first introduced to Europe by plant enthusiast John Veitch. He was the owner of many nurseries, and this plant was named after his name. It is essential to note this plant is different from queen anthurium and has a different morphology and care requirements. This plant is native to the Columbian rainforests of South America. It grows as an epiphyte plant on the other trees and obtains nutrients from the host plants. Its leaves can attain a maximum length of about 6.6 feet and are highly corrugated, like beautiful abdominal abs. Anthurium veitchii is an aroid plant, so it develops spadix and spathe.

It is a large epiphyte plant and produces mildly light green and corrugated leaves. Its leaves can grow 15-20 cm in width and 1.2-2 m in length. The colour of the spathe is light and dull green, while its spadix is white. This plant is vital for ornamental purposes and can be used for hanging baskets, container planting, and interior landscaping. It is a perennial evergreen plant, and its leaves remain functional throughout the year. The enormous leaves grow in a drooping fashion and are arrow-shaped or oval-shaped. It has herbaceous and long stems bearing leaves.


This plant grows well in the USDA zone between 10-11. Growers living in this zone can quickly grow this plant outdoor. The majority of the growers and researchers have reported that it grows well in potted indoor conditions. Management of indoor conditions is significantly easy than the outdoor climate. So, growers can easily protect the indoor growing plant by providing the right conditions.


This plant has an epiphyte growing nature and its roots can easily grow well without soil. It also obtains nutrients from debris, rain, and wind. The houseplants are not capable of getting nutrients from the outer environment. So, growers must use nutrient-rich, good-quality, and fertile grow media to get the best growth and development. These plants grow well in well-drained and airy soil conditions. The use of clay soil is not a good choice as it has less nutrient provision capacity, water holding capacity, and aeration.

The use of loamy and well-structured soils allows air pockets formation, and good circulation is also helpful to minimize the disease development chances such as root rot. Growers can easily make the well-aerated soil mix at home by using volcanic rock, activated charcoal, sphagnum moss, coconut coir, peat moss, orchid bark, perlite, and compost. The use of activated charcoal, volcanic rocks, orchid bark, and perlite is essentially helpful to improve soil drainage and aeration.

It is also possible to take the soil from different areas and mix it properly for making the ideal growing media. Soil testing before direct use is a great way to get an idea about contaminants and nutrients. Different soil testing kits are available in the markets, online stores, and gardening centres. Growers can also benefit from local soil and water testing laboratories and agriculture extension workers. Moreover, optimizing fertilizer application according to soil fertility and plant needs is greatly important to get good results. Both overfertilization and under fertilization exerts adverse effects on growing plants.

Light Requirements 

This plant grows well in the presence of filtered bright light. Growing this plant near the trees is also an ideal choice because it helps plants get fileted sunlight through leaves and treetops. Direct exposure to sunlight is not a good approach as it causes sunburn. Placing the plants near windows is also an excellent way to get bright indirect sunlight.


The watering requirements of this plant are not much high as it goes well with only one watering a week. However, the watering schedule is dependent on the growing environmental conditions, type of growing media, and plant variety. The plants growing in humid climatic conditions have low watering requirements. While the anthurium plants growing in the hot summer conditions needs more watering intensity and frequency. Growers can also check the watering needs by inserting the fingers in the soil.


Anthurium veitchii grows well in cooler climatic conditions. Temperature between 15-26 °C is an ideal choice for best growth. The fluctuation from this range causes stress, and plants’ growth is negatively affected. This plant cannot tolerate external pressure as it has soft leaves. Growers must ensure no contact between this plant and heavier objects to avoid foliage damage.


This plant is native to the forests and grows well in higher humidity levels. Ideally, growers must maintain humidity levels above 60%. Provision of sufficient airflow and humidity is also essential to avoid bacterial infections and disease development. There are many possible ways to increase humidity around the growing plants, and some of the best methods in this aspect are as follows.

Pebble trays: Placing the water-filled trays below the pots is an excellent way to improve humidity around growing plants. Growers must add water regularly to this tray to get good moisture.

Keeping plants together: Putting the plants in closer vicinity is also the best way to improve humidity. Growers must have a good eye on the growing plants as closely placed plants have more chances of infection and diseases.

Humidifiers: Humidifiers are the best approach as they offer targeted and oriented control. Different types of humidifiers are available in the market and gardening stores, and gardeners can easily select any according to the style and size of growing plants and environmental conditions. Some humidifiers are provided with sensors, and they stop working when the humidity is about 80%.

Using enclosed plastic containers: Maintaining proper humidity according to plant requirements is not a much-complicated task. Covering the plants with plastic containers is significantly helpful to maintain constant humidity for extended periods. It may look unaesthetic, and the availability of the right cover according to plant size may also be a problem. It also needs frequent water spraying. At the same time, the entire opening and closing of the lid may also be tricky for some growers.

Terrarium: Bioactive vivariums or terrariums are ideally helpful to improve humidity for tropical plants. These are available in different sizes and can also add beauty to the growing spaces. It allows the creation of proper forest-like climatic conditions and thus provides ideal humidity to the growing plants.


These plants require a minute number of fertilizers because these are epiphytes. Usually, these plants quickly get nutrients from other trees, debris, wind, and air, but indoor growing plants are dependent on fertilization. So, growers must add fertilizers according to the needs of plants, growing stage, and soil type. The use of organic fertilizers is more recommended as it causes significant improvement in soil’s physical, chemical, and biological properties. Water-soluble fertilizers and foliar spraying is also excellent choice to get ideal results. Application of NPK fertilizer in the ratio of 9:3:6 helps to assure good growth and development.

Growing Anthurium Veitchii by Propagation 

The propagation requirements of this plant are much similar to other aroid plants. The easiest way for propagating this plant is by using stem cuttings. Propagation from the seeds is complex because of the less availability of vigorous seeds.

  • Select healthy growing and disease-free stems.
  • Take the cuttings having at least 1-2 nodes.
  • Air layering is also good to take the best newer growth and development. Identification of air roots with the leaves is better than induced air layering.
  • Stem division is also a better way of propagation. This method is only suitable for plants having a cluster of healthy growing stems.
  • Take cuttings by using good-quality knives, scissors, or pruning shears.
  • Rub the alcohol on blades for disinfecting and place it on the flame. This flame treatment for a few seconds is crucial to kill pathogens and infection-causing organisms.
  • Insert the cuttings in the cinnamon powder. It helps with healing and wound protection.
  • Place the cuttings in the rooting hormone to boost the rooting development.
  • Put the well-treated cutting in the growing media or sphagnum moss. Water it properly for rooting development.
  • Root growth will be evident after 3-4 weeks.
  • Allow the development of roots to a few inches before placing them in the final growing medium.

Propagation by Division

  • Growers can quickly propagate this plant by division at the repotting time.
  • Gently take a healthy growing root ball from the container.
  • Removing a plant from one place and inserting it in another place cause significant shock and stress. So must perform the practices with great care to avoid significant problems.
  • Growers can easily remove the ball with their hands. Using sharp but disinfected objects is also the best approach to take root ball.
  • Plant the separated segment in a different pot and fill it with good quality and contaminant-free soil.
  • The division offers faster results than stem-based propagation due to root ball formation on the fully matured plant.

Potting and Repotting 

Anthurium veitchii grows slowly and rarely outgrows the containers in three years. It needs repotting for growth acceleration and development. It is also possible to let the plant stay in its current pot, negatively affecting its growth. This plant can grow bigger provided by enough space and the right growing conditions. The emergence of roots from the drainage holes indicates repotting requirements. Deep pots are a favourable approach to help the plants set their foundation. However, it is a must to insert more drainage holes to support efficient drainage. The use of pots made from clay and terra cotta material is also an excellent approach to better drainage.

Remove the plant from the present container and remove extra dirt. Cut all the improperly growing roots and remove the older, dying, and diseased parts. Untangle the growing roots and do a detailed analysis for the presence of mushy and black ends. Place the plant in a new container and fill it with good quality soil and potting mix. Stabilize the plant in upright conditions. Don’t allow the contact of leaves with the soil and growing media. Thoroughly water the soil and add organic fertilizers to support soil biodiversity and fertility.


These plants have slow-growing nature, and thus, there is no requirement for regular pruning. Growers must regularly inspect the health of growing plants. Removal of dead foliage and diseased parts is critically important to avoid further damage. Trimming the drooping stems gives good shape to the plant and enhances the beauty of growing spaces. Pruning is also helpful to minimize the energy losses of plants for dead and diseased leaves. Removal of infected and dying plants helps the plants to use energy for new leaves and blooms.

Direct skin contact with this plant can cause itching and some irritations. So, the use of gloves is greatly recommended to avoid discomfort. Must clean and sanitize the pruning tools with alcohol or other sanitizers. This practice helps to eliminate the chances of bacterial and fungal infections. The cuts on plants also cause wound formation and provide a significant pathway for bacterial and fungal infections.

Anthurium Veitchii Grow Tips and Guide 

  • Use good quality soil and grow media to ensure better growth.
  • Maintain humidity levels between 60-80%.
  • Avoid sudden drops and rises in the growing temperature.
  • Maintain a neat and clean microclimate.
  • Use organic fertilizers than synthetic chemicals.
  • Introduce beneficial insects to the growing plants and gardens.
  • Use a mixture of organic and inorganic grow media to get good results.
  • Fertilize plants properly according to the soil fertility level and plant requirements.
  • Ensure proper air circulation in the growing conditions.

Similar Plants and Varieties of Anthurium Veitchii 

  • Anthurium Clarinervium 

This plant produces heart-shaped and velvety leaves with perky looks. This plant is not readily available and is difficult to find in all the states of the USA.

  • Anthurium superbum 

This plant grows in a rosette shape dense pattern and produces rounded and ruffled leaves in the vertical direction.

  • Anthurium Ace of Spades 

It is also a hybrid plant and produces dark purple, velvety green leaves. The colour of leaves may look like black due to darker shades.

  • Anthurium Magnificum x Crystallinum 

It is also a hybrid plant and produces bright white and velvety leaves with venation. Its new leaves are bright red, and their colour is changed to bright white with maturity.

Common Problems and How to Treat

Damaged Leaves 

Leaf damage is a most common problem with the growing anthurium veitchii. Mainly this problem is caused due to contact of this plant with the other objects. Growers can easily observe this damage by the presence of deformations and cracks. Sometimes humidity also causes leaf damage, so growers must maintain optimally humid conditions. Less and high humidity hinders the usual emergence of leaves from the cataphyll. This process is similar to that of dry birth. Higher humidity acts as a lubricant and helps the proper emergence and growth of newer leaves.

Growers can easily avoid the problem by preventing plants’ contact with other objects and maintaining proper humid conditions. Too windy conditions and air movement also cause tears and perforation in the leaves. So, keep the plants in protected places to avoid any problems. Also, keep the plant away from heaters, ventilators, fans, and air conditioners.

Bacterial Blight 

It causes water-soaked lesions and leaf yellowing on the margins that grow rapidly and make V-shaped lesions. It is caused by the bacterial entrance to the hydathodes pores, specifically along the margins of leaves. Bacteria can also enter the leaf tissues through the wounds caused by pruning, flower harvesting, and insect pest attack.

Growers can easily avoid this problem by adopting the following management measures.

  • Reducing indoor temperature and humidity by enhancing ventilation and air circulation.
  • Avoiding soil saturation.
  • Using tissue cultured and clean plantlets.
  • Reducing wounding probability and effective treatment of wounds.
  • Regular and oriented use of disinfectants and sterilization practices.
  • Immediate discarding the heavily infected plants.

Bacterial Wilt

The first symptom of bacterial wilt is chlorosis or leaf yellowing. It rapidly spreads in the whole vascular system of the plants and causes browning and bronzing of stems and leaves. Bacterial ooze or brown slime is also evident if cuts are made in the highly infected plant parts. Good sanitation practices are essentially helpful to reduce the chances of bacterial wilt. Phosphorus acid-containing fungicides are also effective for the treatment of infected plants. Bacterial wilt easily spread through the worker’s contact and the use of contaminated tools, water, and soil. The use of disease-free and sanitized tools is a great way to reduce the problem.

Rhizoctonia Root Rot 

The most common reason for Rhizoctonia root rot is damping off. Tender and younger stems become water-soaked and girdled and cannot bear plant weight. The attack of Rhizoctonia is on the lower branches and plant roots. At the same time, it can also attack the upper plant parts and canopy under wet or saturated conditions. This problem is caused by the Rhizoctonia solani that can live in the soil for numerous years even without the host plants. The chances of this disease are enhanced due to the use of saturated grow media. It is possible to avoid this problem by sterilizing growing media and tools and controlling temperature and humidity.

Black Nose Disease 

Black nose disease is a common problem for potted plants and cut flower production. It greatly reduces the appearance and economic value of the plants and flowers. It causes the appearance of brown to black and smaller flecks on the floral spadix. These spots rapidly become bigger and watery and encompass the spadix. It may also cause flower drop in severe conditions. The problem is caused by the fungal attack in the temperate and tropical climatic conditions and causes significant damage to the flowers, leaves, roots, and stems. The severity of this disease is more during the humid and warm regions. Disease chances are also more on the plant parts already damaged by bacterial blight, fertilizers, and pesticides.

Insect Pest Attack 

Insect pests attack indoor and outdoor plants, but growers can easily maintain their populations through preventive and protective measures. Usually, anthurium plants have less attraction for the pests than the philodendron and monstera plants. The most common pest on this plant includes spider mites, scales, whiteflies, thrips, and mealybugs. Early detection of problems and integrated pest management practices help get better control.


These are soft-bodied, small, dull-white, and wingless insects producing powdery waxlike substances. These insects have sucking or piercing mouthparts and suck the cell sap from plants. They look like tiny cotton pieces and cause congregation on the leaves and stem branches. These bugs feed on a wide range of plants and commonly attack houseplants. The younger populations move around on all the plants until they find a good feeding hotspot. Mealybugs feed on the plants in colonies so growers can easily control their populations. Mealybug’s attack can weaken the plants’ immune system and survival capacity, leading to the leaf drop and foliage yellowing.

Moreover, these insects also secrete fungal growth, having a black surface (sooty mould). So, it dramatically reduces the plant’s beauty and attractiveness. Immediate isolation of the infected plants is fundamental to avoid further spread, and early detection of pests helps control their populations timely. Some organic pesticides are also available in the market to control the mealybugs. The use of heavy doses of synthetic chemicals is not recommended for house plants. Therefore, growers can easily avoid toxicity and pest population by using integrated pest management practices.

Scale Insects 

These insects are similar to mealybugs and can attack a wide range of outdoor and indoor plants. The younger insects crawl on various plants to find suitable feeding sources. The adult females also lay their eggs on the plants protected by the hard-shell layer. They look like bumps, and growers can easily observe them on the undersides of leaves. Their mouthparts are of piercing nature, and these insects feed on plants by sucking the cell sap. Scales attack also causes leaf drop and foliage yellowing. These insects also produce honeydew and cause the formation of sooty mould. Controlling the scales population is a pretty challenging task. Isolation of the infected plants is a significant task to protect other growing plants. The introduction of natural insects is essential to minimize their populations.


Why my Anthurium veitchii plant is growing slowly? 

This plant has a naturally slow-growing habit. Usually, it develops new leaves in three months. So, there is no need to worry about slow growth and development. Growers must maintain the right growing conditions and inputs to avoid biotic and abiotic stresses.

Why are the leaves of a smaller size? 

The smaller leaf size of anthurium veitchii indicates less soil fertility and under fertilization, and this plant needs fertilization after every other week. The use of organic fertilizers, water-soluble fertilizers, and the proper fertilization schedule is essential to improving leaf size and plant vigour.

Is Anthurium veitchii toxic? 

Yes, this plant is toxic, and it can cause skin irritation, mouth allergies, and stomach problems. So, growers must plant away from the reach of children and pets.

Can I use coffee grounds for Anthurium veitchii soil fertilization? 

The use of coffee grounds and well-composted kitchen waste is ideal for providing macro and micronutrients to the growing Anthurium. Coffee grounds offer more nitrogen than peat moss. Moreover, its addition is also helpful in terms of mulching perspectives. So, it helps for the moderation of soil temperature and water.

Can this plant go dormant? 

Dormancy is an inevitable event for plants. All plants undergo dormant conditions at some stage during their lifecycle, and it helps plants conserve energy and protect it from harsh environmental conditions. This plant goes dormant during the winter and stops growing until the following season.

Is Anthurium veitchii plant durable? 

This plant has good durability and grows for many years. Provision of the right inputs, care, and management is crucial to improve its lifespan, health, and appearance.

Can I cut and store the Anthurium veitchii flowers? 

This plant produces beautiful flowers, and growers can cut the flowers for aesthetic and decoration purposes. Keeping the flowers in the freshwater or soaked oasis helps to maintain their freshness for several days. Cutting the flowers with a healthy and long stem is essential to make easy arrangements and management measures. Flowers with short stems are also appropriate to be used as cut flowers. Usually, these flowers look best when clustered in the juice glass and floated in the bowels.

Always cut these flowers in the morning for the best results. Use sharp pruners and scissors to make the cuts. Plunge the foliage and flowers in water-filled buckets. Store the flowers in a cool and dry place for better results. Frequently change the water to avoid contamination and diseases. Also, wash containers and vases to get rid of bacterial and fungal infections.



Caring for your Begonia Maculata

With a stunning combination of silver spots on the top and a rich red to purple on the bottom, the unique leaves of Begonia Maculata add an element of interest to any boring indoor space. This idiosyncratic spotted appearance of the plant has rightly earned it the name of Polka Dot Begonia or Spotted Begonia. Angel Wing Begonia and Trout Begonia are some more common names that are usually used for this beauty.

Begonia Maculata was first found in the 1600s in Southeast Brazil, and was named after the Governor in its native area – Micheal Begon. The plant grows abundantly and lusciously in the Atlantic Rainforest today.

Though it is easy enough to cultivate Begonia Maculata in these regions, growing it elsewhere requires quite a bit of effort. So, if you are aiming to add spark to your indoor garden with this beauty, you have got to be willing to put in the work. Here is a detailed guide to keeping your Begonia Maculata happy and flourishing in any indoor setting.

How to care for your Begonia Maculata


The most common mistake that Begonia owners make is using the wrong soil mixture for their plant.

The Polka Dot Begonia is especially susceptible to root rot, and must be rooted in well-draining soil to avoid this problem. If the soil is not porous enough and holds the water instead of letting it run through, the roots may become infected and start decaying.

A good mix of equal parts of sand, clay, perlite, and loamy soil makes for a nice growing medium for the Begonia Maculata. This potting mix contains plenty of air pockets providing the necessary ventilation and drainage that your plant needs to stay healthy and happy.


When it comes to light, the Begonia Maculata requires plenty of it. Simply an hour or two of being in the sun does not cut it for this beautiful plant. If you want to see the true potential of your Begonia, make sure that it is getting ample sunlight.

At the same time, direct sunlight that is too intense may cause the leaves to burn. When growing a Begonia Maculata plant, you have to be careful about the placement of your pot. The best location for it would be in front of an east or west facing window, where the light is filtered and more gentle to the plant, but spread out over the daytime hours.


Maintaining the right balance between too wet and too dry is another challenge with the Begonia Maculata. Mostly, Begonia enthusiasts find the sweet spot between the two by practice and trial and error. But if you know a few tell-tale signs of overwatering and underwatering your Begonia Maculata, you can save it from a lot of unnecessary stress.

Ideally, the soil mixture of your Begonia Maculata should always be a little damp to touch. This sensitive plant loves its moisture and does not like it when the soil runs too dry. However, as we already mentioned before, it is also very susceptible to root rot – a problem that arises due to frequent watering and poor drainage.

To figure out when your plant needs to be replenished, do the finger-soil test. Simply stick in the finger about an inch deep into the soil to feel for dampness. If the soil feels too dry to touch, this is a clear indication that your Begonia Maculata is thirsty. Usually, your plant will need to be watered once every week.

When you water your plant, always take care to water it directly at the roots. Wet leaves are another problem that you do not want.


To maintain its stunning foliage, the Begonia Maculata requires humidity levels to be above 50%. If you live in a dry, arid region, you may have some trouble achieving this level of humidity. A smart hack would be to place your plant in the kitchen or the bathroom in these cases, as these areas of the house are typically more humid than the rest. Of course, you will have to ensure that the rest of its needs, such as the right sunlight and temperature, are also being met.

Other methods of maintaining high humidity are placing a pebble filled water saucer or a humidifier near your Begonia Maculata. Alternatively, you can house your plant in a terrarium where these conditions are artificially maintained.


As you would expect from any other tropical plant, Begonia Maculata, too, needs a hot and humid environment to thrive. For the best possible results, keep the temperature between a comfortable 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Any temperature below 60 degrees Fahrenheit would be too cold for this tropical beauty, and it may affect the growth rate and spread of its beautiful leaves.


Talking about growth, this plant is quite an impressive species. The maximum potential height for a Begonia Maculata being grown indoors is around 4.9 feet. When the conditions are favorable, the leaves also tend to get pretty big, reaching almost 8 inches in length. Along with these larger leaves, you will also find a few small ones here and there, giving the Begonia Maculata its characteristic bushy appearance.

As the leaves sprout, they have a pink to maroon hue to them. However, the color deepens as they mature, with the adult leaf having a dark green upper surface with prominent silver spots, and a beautiful red on the underside.


Regular pruning will encourage your Begonia Maculata to grow faster and spread its foliage wider. By taking off the wilting blooms and leaves, you effectively conserve the nutrition that the plant was spending in trying to maintain these hopeless appendages. This diverts the nutrition to the growing parts of your Begonia Maculata, sprouting new shoots and leaves.

Trimming down the overgrown branches can also help your Begonia Maculata gain a couple of inches in height. The practice also results in a bushier, more aesthetic plant. Spring and summer are the best seasons to prune and shape up your Polka Dot Begonia.


If you notice that your spotted princess is looking a bit sad and nothing seems to be helping, try giving it a little liquid fertilizer as a treat. Sometimes, the soil may be running out of essential nutrients and your Begonia Maculata may need a little extra help to flourish.

During the growing seasons of Spring and Summer, you should add a good quality liquid fertilizer to the soil once every two weeks. In the colder seasons when the plant is not in its active growth phase, you can cut down the frequency to once in two months.

When using fertilizer, beware of chemical burns. The sensitive Begonia Maculata can be easily damaged if the fertilizer you have used is too strong. To prevent this from happening, dilute your liquid fertilizer in twice the volume of water that is recommended on the packaging.


The pot you choose to plant your Begonia Maculata is yet another factor that can influence its growth. Unlike most other houseplants, this gorgeous indoor plant prefers a snug and cozy home. Hence, a smaller pot that hugs the roots is best to grow a Begonia Maculata.

At the same time, the Begonia Maculata grows out of its snug home quite quickly. With an impressive growth rate, especially during the initial years, you will need to repot your plant quite frequently. When you notice that the plant is struggling to find room to grow and the roots begin to poke out of the drainage hole, it is time to relocate your Begonia Maculata in a slightly bigger pot.

Like pruning, repotting is also best done during the active growth seasons – that is, in the spring and summer months. When picking out a suitable pot for Begonia Maculata, make sure that it has proper drainage holes to prevent the all-too-common root rot.


Any house that has small children or pets running all around is not suitable to grow a Begonia Maculata in. If you are adamant on rearing one of these despite having kids – whether your own or the furry ones – make sure that you put the plant in an inaccessible location.

Although the plant will not really kill you, it can cause irritation and moderate to severe gastrointestinal problems if ingested. Cats are especially vulnerable to the toxic effects of Begonia Maculata.

Growing Tips and Guide

Several common problems can be avoided if you know a few tips about growing Begonia Maculata indoors. Here are a few hacks that may help you steer clear of these easily avoidable issues.

  • If your house does not get enough sunlight, you can place your Begonia Maculata outdoors for a few hours everyday. Just remember to bring it back inside for the night.
  • If you live in a colder region, be extra careful about the temperature. The plant will instantly start to wilt if it gets too cold.
  • A soil moisture gauge can help you figure out when your Begonia Maculata needs to be watered.
  • When watering your plant, aim the stream at the soil. Take care to not get the stem or the leaves wet.
  • Make sure no water is left in the soil after you are done watering. This can lead to root rot, a major problem with plants like Begonia Maculata.

How To Grow Your Begonia Maculata?

Begonia Maculata may be propagated in one of three ways: leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and cultivating the plant from seeds. Out of these, the first two are the easier methods of multiplying your Begonia Maculata.

For the leaf cutting method, cut a few fresh leaves from the plant along with at least an inch of petiole. Slice up the leaf in strips, making sure each strip has a well developed vein. Now place the leaves in a previously prepared pot with moist, well draining soil and cover it with a plastic bag to maintain humidity. You can expect the roots to start sprouting in around 3 to 4 wells, and by the 6th week, your new Begonia plants should be ready to be transplanted.

If you wish to opt for the stem cutting method, cut an inch long piece of stem from a mature Begonia Maculata and stick one end into a previously prepared pot with moist, well draining soil. Care for it the same way as detailed above for stem cutting, and you will notice new roots sprouting in about 5 to 7 weeks.

The most challenging propagation method for Begonia Maculata is through its seeds. For this reason, it is best left to professionals.

Common Problems And How To Treat Them


Begonia Maculata is susceptible to a variety of pest infestations. From caterpillars and earwigs to the very common snails – a myriad of pests may inhabit the striking leaves of this plant. These pests then feed on the foliage, leaving behind unsightly holes in them.

To get rid of pests, the best course of action is to pick them off of the plant, followed by a good pesticide spray to keep them away for good.


Common diseases of the Begonia plant include bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, and blight. The result of these plant conditions are damaged leaves, which ultimately lead to the death of the entire plant. However, there is a simple solution to prevention of all these types of diseases.

Most of these conditions originate in the background of overwatering. It is when water accumulates in a poorly draining soil that the plant develops these conditions. Simply being careful with the watering schedule and investing in a moisture gauge is enough to keep these problems at bay.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Begonia Maculata rare?

While Begonia Maculata used to be a rare species, the increased demand has led to many people trying to cultivate the plant in order to sell it. Due to this increased attempt at propagating this plant, it is no longer considered as rare and can be easily sourced from a good nursery or Etsy.

Do Begonia Maculata go dormant?

During the colder months, the growth rate of Begonia Maculata drops and they propagate less readily. However, at no point does this plant go completely dormant.

Do Begonia Maculata need structural support?

As the Begonia Maculata plant achieves a certain height, it starts to lean due to the weight of the leaves and stem. To keep your plant upright, a bamboo stick or a moss pole can be stuck in the center to provide structural support.

Wrapping It Up

So, there you go! The perfect guide to taking care of your Begonia Maculata.

Truth be told, the Begonia Maculata is not easy to grow. There are plenty of factors that need to be taken into consideration to ensure its survival. But as long as you follow these directions, you can be guaranteed a luscious, stunning Polka Dot Begonia.

Monstera Siltepecana isn’t the most common houseplant. That’s because it’s a flowering plant native to the South of Mexico and most of Central America. Outside of the area, it’s only found if someone has imported and brought it over to their home.

This type of plant has to be planted in its own way, kept in the right conditions, and grown with care to ensure that the plant grows well. While this isn’t too much work, it’s always best to know the plant you’re going to be working with before you get it. That’s why in this guide, we’re going to be outlining everything you need to know about caring for your Monstera Siltepecana from the day you get it, so you can make sure that it grows right.

How To Care For Your Monstera Siltepecana

Even though the Monstera Siltepecana doesn’t require an extreme amount of handling, there are still things you need to do to make sure that it grows and thrives. When you take care of the plant, it’ll be able to grow fast and healthy at the same time.



The best time to plant the Monstera Siltepecana is during the spring (or growing season). When you buy the plant, it’ll most likely come in a small pot already, with lots of roots sticking out of the drainage holes. You should gently wiggle the plant out and unravel the roots just a little bit to loosen them up and then plant them in the new soil. Ensure that the soil is draining, and if you’re using pre-fertilized soil, make sure to leave it be for a few months, so you’re not overpowering the plant with fertilizer.



Light has to be one of the most important aspects of growing plants. Some plants need lots of sunlight, and others will fry if they get too much. Monstera Siltepecana lies somewhere in the middle. This plant doesn’t like direct sunlight but can tolerate an hour or two of it a day. Generally, having it by a window that’s covered with a curtain or just placing it in the room away from the window altogether would be best.



Monstera Siltepecana is a tropical plant. That means that it won’t need too much water because its roots can end up soaking too much and end up rotting because of it. Water this plant moderately. This means that you don’t really need to water it every day. Just do the one-inch test by sticking your finger, or a stick, into the soil when it looks dry enough, and make sure that the top layer, around one to two inches, is dry. Overwatering the plant could ruin it very fast.



Since this is a tropical plant, it fares well in moderate to high humidity levels. So if you’re in a drier area, and notice that your Monstera Siltepecana isn’t looking too great, put a humidifier near it, and it should get back to normal soon enough.



With plants, it’s always the best idea to make their environment as similar to their natural environment as possible. As far as the temperature goes, the plant wouldn’t really do well in super cold areas. To make sure it grows right, keep it in a warm area. Room temperature works too.



Since the Monstera Siltepecana doesn’t start off too big, it doesn’t really need a lot of fertilizer. If you’ve planted the roots into simple soil, you can use a diluted version of general fertilizer for this one as well. Just make sure you’re only using it once or twice a year maximum to keep it from being over-fertilized.



One great thing about the Monstera Siltepecana plant is that it’s very easy to propagate it. Once the plant starts to grow and rise, you’ll notice that a lot of the smaller leaves have little roots sprouting out of them. That’s also how the plant holds on to a stem. All you have to do is cut it right there and place the root in water for a few days. Once that root starts to grow and spread, you can remove it from the water and plant it in new soil. Just remember to wait long enough to let the roots grow long enough to be planted so it can actually grow right away once it’s in the soil.



Even though you’d want to save every little leaf that grows out of the plant, it’s important that you’re also pruning the plant as it grows to make sure none of the resources are being wasted on dead leaves. The first thing you need to do is find the node on the leaf. That’s where the leaf is growing out of. First, see if you can twist it very gently. If it’s dead enough, it would just fall right off, but if it doesn’t, you can cut it. Place your plant scissors directly above the node, and snip in one clean snip. You’ll easily cut the leaf off of there, and the new one will be able to grow in from the same node without a problem.

You can also prune the plant if it’s grown in the wrong direction or is overgrowing. The same technique would apply either way.



Since Monstera Siltepecana is a vining plant, it’s going to eventually grow long enough that it starts climbing out of the pot and grabbing the surfaces around it as it goes. In the wild, they just grab onto the other plants around them, and they all come together to support one another. In homes, they’ll start grabbing objects that are in their way, which also leads them to start growing in all sorts of different directions. Instead of letting the plant figure it out, use posts, poles, and threads to guide it in the right direction.

Monstera Siltepecana Growing Tips And Guide

Want to avoid some common problems with your Monstera Siltepecana? Here are some growing tips that can help you maintain your plant’s health.

  • Make sure you’re planting it when the roots are ready
  • Get draining soil
  • Don’t over-fertilize or overwater the plant
  • Keep it away from direct sunlight
  • Ensure that the plant is around the right humidity levels
  • Keep it in a warm room
  • Dilute the fertilizer to half strength before using it
  • Prune as required
  • Guide it to climb right

Monstera Siltepecana Common Problems And How to Treat them

Although it’s fairly easy to grow a Monstera Siltepecana right, there are some problems you might face. Whenever the Monstera Siltepecana plant is having trouble, it’ll communicate those problems using physical signs. For every plant owner, it’s important to always stay on top of what your plant’s warning signs are, so you can step in and help immediately.

Below are four of the most common problems that your Monstera Siltepecana might go through and how you can treat them.


Leaves Browning

Since the Monstera Siltepecana can be a little sensitive to its surroundings, there are times when the leaves just don’t grow right. If you’re noticing that your perfectly healthy leaves one day turned brown or even had white spots all over them, then you’re doing something wrong. This is a clear sign that your plant is dehydrated. That doesn’t necessarily mean that you didn’t water it enough, although you might want to do the poke test to see if that could be the case. If it’s not, check where it’s placed. If the area gets too much direct sunlight every day, the plant might end up getting dehydrated because of it. Not only that, but if the place is too cold and doesn’t have the appropriate humidity levels, the plant feels extra dry. So check all three to figure out which one of them could be bothering the leaves, and then make the appropriate changes to the plant’s environment to fix that immediately.


Leaves Not Growing

Even though the Monstera Siltepecana is a vining plant and tends to grow quite fast, it’s still not an overnight change. The growth may still take weeks to become substantial. So if you’re noticing that the small, juvenile leaves on your plant just aren’t growing, there could be two things at play.

The first one is that it is growing but not fast enough for your eye to be able to notice it. If you’re going to check up on the plant over and over again in a span of days, you might just feel like the leaves aren’t growing, even if they are. A great way to not let that happen is by taking before and after photos and setting bi-weekly reminders to go check up on the growth. That way, you’ll know for sure if the plant actually isn’t growing out the way you’d want it to.

However, if even after that you’ve come to the conclusion that the leaves have stopped growing, see if the plant is placed in the right spot. If the plant is in the constant shade and hasn’t really been exposed to any sunlight for a while, it’ll stop growing. Make sure your plant is close enough to the window to get ample indirect sunlight and grow as much as it possibly can.


Dry Leaves

Touch the Monstera Siltepecana and see if the leaves feel soft yet sturdy because that’s what they’re supposed to feel like. If they don’t and you see them curling up from all sides, the plant may be dehydrated. Here you would first try to give it some more water and wait a couple of days before doing anything. If the leaves heal up and start to grow again, you’ll stop here, but if they don’t, there are two more things you can do.

The first one would be to use a humidifier and give the plant the added moisture it needs. If that doesn’t work, the dry leaves might be a goner, and you will have to cut them off and do a complete purge of your plant.


Yellow Leaves

If the leaves of the Monstera Siltepecana plant start turning yellow, there’s something wrong with the water again. This only happens when the plant is getting far too much water, so you need to cut back on that immediately and let the plant dry out, and then water it appropriately.


Frequently Asked Questions

Does Monstera Siltepecana Grow Fast?

Yes, the Does Monstera Siltepecana grows very fast, and if it’s potted in a small pot, you’ll have to change the pot to a bigger one frequently for it to be right. If you do know how to care for plants, you’ll have a much easier time figuring things out.


Is Monstera Siltepecana Toxic to Pets?

Yes. Monstera Siltepecana is extremely toxic for pets. So if your pet likes to chew on everything, you might want to keep her away from the crime scene.


Where Can I Get Monstera Siltepecana?

While you could find one of these plants at a local garden center, it’s highly likely that you won’t. Instead of going local like that, go online and see if they have any power missions around to get one for yourself too.


When Will the Siltepecana Develop The Holes?

One of the most unique physical features of this plant is the holes. These holes really add to the overall look. However, if your Monstera Siltepecana isn’t getting the holes, it’s just not strong enough to do so. Give it some time to heal and fix the mess here because the healthier it’ll be. As long as you’re following all of the major tips named above, you’ll have a great time growing a grand plant.

Wrapping It Up

The Monstera Siltepecana is a plant that anyone can grow if they know what they’re doing. The good thing is that this plant isn’t very fussy and granted you’re doing a good job taking care of its water, sunlight, and humidity needs, the plant will be just fine! Just follow all the tips we’ve outlined in the post, and your tiny plant will be on growing big in no time!


Hoya Krimson Queen is a succulent with strikingly variegated leaves. Growing this royal plant for the first time? Here is a detailed guide with everything you need to know about caring for your Hoya Krimson Queen.

Caring For Your Hoya Krimson Queen

Hoya Carnosa Krimson Queen, 4

Hoya Krimson Queen is a well-known plant in the gardening community. The pink leaves with white to cream margins give it the names of Hoya Tricolor and Hoya Variegata. Variegated Hoya Carnosa, Variegated Wax Plant, and African Violet Plant are some more common names this plant is referred to as. Like all the other Hoya species, Hoya Krimson Queen also has thick, waxy leaves that look stunning in any indoor setting.

The Hoya plant was first discovered in Australia and some parts of Southeast Asia. Though there used to be hundreds of impressive varieties of this plant, deforestation has pretty much wiped out most of the Hoya types. This is why it is important to conserve what we are left with and take proper care of these endangered species.

While the Hoya Krimson Queen does not require tons of effort on its upkeep, it can be pretty particular about what it likes. This guide will talk about everything you need to know to keep your Red Queen happy and healthy.

How To Care For Your Hoya Krimson Queen

Hardiness Zones

In the wild, Hoya Krimson Queen grows best in hardiness zones 10 through 12. This makes it the perfect plant to keep in the house, as it handles the regular room temperature pretty well. If you live in a temperate to a tropical area, you might even succeed in growing it in your outdoor garden.


When it comes to soil, choose something that drains well and does not hold excess water for long. A potting mix with equal parts of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite will serve your Hoya Krimson Queen very well. You can also add coconut husk or orchid bark to make your soil airy and porous. This allows the roots to breathe easily and prevents suffocation.


All Hoya varieties need plenty of sunlight to flourish. But it is even more important for variegated plants like the Hoya Krimson Queen. Because it is only the central green part of the leaves that contributes to photosynthesis, it must get enough sunlight to fulfill its nutrition needs.


An east-facing window is the best place to put your Hoya Krimson Queen. This position gets abundant bright, indirect sunlight that it requires. However, if you live in a country where days are short and the sun is rarely out, consider investing in a plant grow light to make up for the unavailable sunlight.


Hoya Krimson Queen is a sturdy succulent that you won’t have to water very often. A couple of times per week is enough to fulfill the Queen’s needs during the summer months and even less is required in the fall and winter.

You will know your plant is thirsty when the soil is dry to touch and doesn’t cling to your fingers. When you water your Hoya Krimson Queen, pour enough until you see excess water escaping the drainage holes. Thorough watering is essential to keep your succulents healthy.


The optimal humidity levels for Hoya Krimson Queen lie between 70 to 80 percent. But, of course, these levels do not exist indoors naturally.

However, high humidity levels can easily be maintained in a number of ways. For example, you can put your plant in the bathroom or kitchen, as these areas are generally more humid than the rest of the house. You can also line your drainage tray with pebbles so that the water evaporates when it touches them and increases the surrounding humidity. Another way to resolve the problem is by using a humidifier.

Some people will also mist their Hoya or put their plants close together to increase the humidity. However, these practices carry the risk of your plant developing fungus and transmitting infections and should be avoided when possible.


The hardy Hoya Krimson Queen can tolerate a wide range of temperatures between 60 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. However, anything below 59 degrees Fahrenheit and your plant will begin to stress. If you live in a colder region, you will have to grow your Hoya Krimson Queen in a temperature-maintained terrarium.

In addition to being cold-sensitive, Hoya Krimson Queen also dislikes any big variations in the surrounding temperature. It does not readily adapt to change and will show signs of distress if the temperature is not consistent.


The wild Hoya Krimson Queen grows to a massive height of 20 feet, but when indoors, only a fraction of this impressive height can be reached. The average Hoya Krimson Queen will be 1.5 to 2 feet tall as a houseplant. But if the conditions are right and all its needs are met, even an indoor Hoya Krimson Queen may surprise you with its rapid growth.

The heart-shaped leaves are a petite 1.6 to 2 inches in length. They are thick, fleshy, and have a smooth, waxy texture.

Most of the growth happens over the summer and spring seasons. When compared to other varieties of the same genus, Hoya Krimson Queen is said to be a fast-growing vine, and you can see quick results of the effort you put into rearing this plant.


The magic minerals for Hoya Krimson Queen are phosphorus and potassium. When these are present in adequate amounts, you can expect your Queen to flourish like no other.

You have the choice between store-bought NPK fertilizer and organic compost for plant food. While the chemical ones you buy at the store are easier to manage, the risk of fertilizer burn is considerably higher with them. Diluting liquid chemical fertilizer and using it sparingly is one way to manage this risk. Organic compost that you prepare at home carries no such threat.

The optimal time to feed your Hoya Krimson Queen is during the active growth phase. This coincides with the summer and spring seasons, when you should be complementing the soil with fertilizer once a month. It is best to hold off on the treatment during the winter season.


All plants need to be repotted when the roots have started to crowd, and there is no more space left for them to spread. Being a faster-growing vine, Hoya Krimson Queen needs it much more frequently than the other varieties of the same family. Ideally, you should be replacing your Hoya Krimson Queen in a new pot every couple of growing seasons.

When repotting your Hoya Krimson Queen, always ensure that the container has a proper drainage system in place. If the pot doesn’t drain right, the Hoya is subject to root rot and dies. Another vital consideration when repotting is the size of the new pot – it should only be slightly bigger than the old one. If the new pot is too big, it is harder for Hoya Krimson Queen to adjust to the new environment. The ideal time to change pots is during the active growing period, but not when the plant is blooming.

The procedure to repot is as follows:

  • Loosen up the soil around the edges and gently probe the Hoya Krimson Queen out of its pot along with the surrounding soil. Make sure that the roots stay intact.
  • Place the plant in a slightly bigger pot filled three quarters with the appropriate potting mix.
  • Cover the roots with more soil until the plant is stable.
  • Wait for a day before watering the plant.


Hoya Krimson Queen is not a pet-friendly succulent. While it may not kill cats and dogs, ingesting the toxic sap will certainly make them very sick. Hence, it is best to put small children or mischievous pets out of reach.

How to Propagate the Hoya Krimson Queen

Want a Hoya Krimson Queen in every corner of your house? You can easily propagate this plant through stem cuttings. It is best to do this during the summer and spring when it is easier for the Hoya Krimson Queen to take.

To cultivate a new Hoya Krimson Queen from an existing one, follow the guide given below:

  • Identify a healthy stem with a couple of nodes and a few leaves. Make sure that the stem is not in bloom.
  • With sterilized pruning shears, make a diagonal cut under a node on that stem.
  • Dip the cut in rooting hormone.
  • Now, you can either proliferate your Hoya Krimson Queen cutting in distilled water, soil, or sphagnum moss. Make sure to keep the soil or sphagnum moss moist until the roots have sprouted.
  • Bury your plant in the propagating medium of your choice until the level of the cut node.
  • Maintain a high humidity level by covering the cut stem with a plastic bag and placing it under bright, indirect sunlight.
  • Within a few weeks, you will begin to notice new roots sprouting from the cut end of the stem. When this happens, you can replant your Hoya Krimson Queen in its permanent pot.


Frequent pruning is not a requirement with Hoya Krimson Queen, but doing so every now and then does encourage their growth. Taking off the dead and dying leaves lessens the plant’s burden so it can grow new ones. It makes the plants bushier and also increases the number of flowers on them.

Growing Tips And Guide

Want to avoid some common problems with your Hoya Krimson Queen? Here are some growing tips that can help you maintain your plant’s health.

  • Choose your container carefully. A terracotta pot with proper drainage holes is ideal for growing Hoya Krimson Queen and prevents root rot.
  • Ensure that the potting mix is adequately airy and well-draining.
  • Abstain from watering your Hoya Krimson Queen too frequently. Overwatering can damage your plant even with a good drainage system in place.
  • Keep your plant away from direct sunlight – you do not want the leaves to burn.
  • Try to keep a consistent surrounding temperature. The Hoya Krimson Queen does not adapt readily to temperature changes.
  • Change the pot every two years to ensure that your soil is fresh and your plant is not root-bound.
  • Refresh the potting mix every time you repot your plant.

Common Problems And How to Treat them

The problems encountered when growing Hoya Krimson Queen can be categorized under two causes:


Hoya Krimson Queen requires very little water, and overwatering this succulent is very common – especially with novices. However, if you water your plant too frequently or don’t have a proper drainage system in place, your Hoya Krimson Queen may be subject to root rot.

You will know you are overwatering your plant if the leaves start to turn yellow and curl onto themselves. Try with different watering schedules until you find one that works with the weather in your area and makes your Hoya Krimson Queen happy.


It is not uncommon to find Hoya Krimson Queen infested with mealybugs, spider mites, or scale. These pests feed on the sap of Hoya Krimson Queen, leaving little nutrition behind for its growth. They also leave the plant vulnerable to bacterial infections and over diseases and may also play a role in their transmission.

Mealybugs can be seen as cotton balls on the leaves. Spider mites can be recognized by the characteristic webs they leave behind. And lastly, scales appear as semi-permanent spots on the stem and leaves.

Insecticides and pesticides are excellent ways to get rid of these pests. However, you can also use organic neem oil if you want a chemical-free solution to the problem. In addition to this, spider mites can be combated with a humidifier, and scales will need to be individually picked off of your Hoya Krimson Queen.

Frequently Asked Questions

How can you tell apart Hoya Krimson Queen from Hoya Krimson Princess?

The main difference between the two species of royal Hoya is the site of variegation. The leaves of Krimson Queen are green in the center with white margins, whereas the Princess has a white center with green margins.

Why is my Hoya Krimson Queen losing its variegation?

The most common reason for this problem is too little sunlight. Try moving your Hoya Krimson Queen to an east-facing window to resolve the issue.

Why are the leaves turning brown?

Too much sunlight or overwatering can cause the Hoya Krimson Queen leaves to start browning. Work around with the placement and watering schedule of your Hoya Krimson Queen if you are facing this problem.

Wrapping It Up

As the name tells you, the Hoya Krimson Queen is the royalty of the Hoya family. Hence, it is only appropriate to give it the royal treatment it deserves. Use the tips in this guide to ensure the health of your Hoya Krimson Queen.

Desired for its rarity, Hoya Macrophylla is a beautiful plant that can easily be identified by its thick green leaves with pale yellow margins. If you have one in your indoor garden, this guide will help you properly rear Hoya Macrophylla.

Hoya Macrophylla, Very Rare Limited Live Plant, Super Filled in 4 inch Pot

Caring For Your Hoya Macrophylla

The Hoya Macrophylla plant is a favorite among indoor gardening enthusiasts around the world. Often affectionately called the Wax Plant for its thick green leaves, Hoya Macrophylla is quite sturdy and easy to care for.

This succulent vine was first discovered in the Austral Asia region, where it had as many as 500 different varieties! Unfortunately, due to bad environmental practices and deforestation, many of these Hoya species have already gone extinct, and many others are labeled as endangered.

For this reason, Hoya plants are hard to come by and fetch quite a lot of money in the gardener’s market. And so, if you are lucky enough to get your hands on one of these, you must make sure you are caring for it the right way! Here is everything you need to know to keep your Hoya Macrophylla healthy, happy, and flourishing.

How To Care For Your Plant

Hardiness Zones

Hoya Macrophylla plants are of the hardiness zones 10 and 11. They love temperate to slightly warm environments, and cannot grow too well in the cold. If you are trying to rear this succulent in a colder region, you must pay special attention to maintaining the surrounding temperature.


Unlike most other indoor plants you may have around the house, Hoya Macrophylla likes sweet, alkaline soil. This means that the plant will flourish in limestone and eggshells,  and absolutely hate it if you use peat moss in the potting mix.

A basic potting mix for Hoya Macrophylla should contain organic cactus mix, perlite, and organic orchid mix in equal amounts. This composition is well-draining and super aerated – two things your Hoya Macrophylla will greatly appreciate.


While Hoya Macrophylla enjoys plenty of sunlight, make sure that it is not directly overhead. Too much sun exposure can leave your plant burnt, while not enough can make it look leggy. The best place to put your pot of Hoya Macrophylla is therefore in front of an east-facing window.


As you would expect from a succulent, you do not have to water Hoya Macrophylla very frequently. However, when you do give it water, you must ensure there is plenty of it.

You will know that it is time to water your plant when the top layer of the soil feels dry to touch. In most areas, this will mean watering once weekly, but it can vary from place to place due to the change in weather and humidity. When watering, keep on pouring until you see excess water flowing out the drainage holes. This will ensure that the moisture penetrates each layer of the soil.

As we have already mentioned, Hoya Macrophylla does not like acidic conditions. If your tap water has a low pH, avoid using it to water your plant. Instead, use aquarium or rainwater for extra nutrients, and if that’s not possible, distilled water is the way to go.


In terms of withstanding a wide range of humidity levels, Hoya Macrophylla is a pretty hardy plant. In its natural habitat, the Macrophylla plant enjoys high humidity levels of 90 percent or more. Even so, the plant maintains its foliage and blooms at humidity levels as low as 40 percent.

To replicate the natural environment of Hoya Macrophylla, you can use techniques such as misting the plant every now and then or using a humidifier. However, we would not recommend crowding your Hoya Macrophylla pots to indirectly raise the humidity levels – these plants are especially vulnerable to fungi and molds, and placing them close together facilitates the spread of disease from one plant to the other.


The Austral Asia region enjoys a lot of sun, and it is quite hot all around the year. If you are growing your Hoya Macrophylla in an area that enjoys similar weather, you have nothing to be worried about. But if you live in colder regions, maintaining the temperature becomes a necessity. The ideal temperature to grow Hoya Macrophylla is around 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the winter hits, you might have to move your Hoya Macrophylla to a terrarium. However, even then, the plant might go into dormancy if a temperature above 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit is not maintained. So if you see your Hoya Macrophylla stop growing and blooming during the winter months, do not fret! As soon as Spring comes around, your Hoya Macrophylla will be back in its full bloom!


Hoya Macrophylla is quite slow to grow, even during its active growth period. But if you are patient with your plant and consistent with your care and attention, the reward is absolutely mesmerizing.

In its natural habitat, Hoya Macrophylla can reach an impressive 66 feet in height by the time it is 10 years old. When grown indoors, however, the average plant is only about 4 to 6 feet tall. The maximum height of your Hoya Macrophylla will depend most on how well you are caring for it.

Because Hoya Macrophylla is an epiphyte, its tendrils go out in search of supporting structures to hold on to as the plant grows. In the wild, this support is provided by the vegetation growing nearby. In your home, you will have to introduce a moss pole in the Hoya Macrophylla pot to provide the support that it needs to grow taller.


If your plant looks a bit sad, you can lift up its spirits by feeding it some good organic fertilizer. We recommend that you do it at least once a month during the growing phase, and then take a break for the winter months when the Hoya Macrophylla goes into a dormant stage.

An easily available fertilizer that your plant will be grateful for is fish emulsion. Though a bit smelly, it has all the essential nutrients that Hoya Macrophylla needs to grow to its full potential. Take care to not put your plant in direct sunlight immediately after feeding it fertilizer, as this leaves Hoya Macrophylla vulnerable to burns.


Unlike many other houseplants, Hoya Macrophylla does not really become root-bound. This allows you a significant period before you are required to change the pot you are growing your Hoya Macrophylla in. You can go quite a few before without replacing the pot of your Hoya Macrophylla.

However, things change if your potting mix contains orchid bark. Remember how we said Hoya Macrophylla absolutely loathes acidic soil? Well, the orchid mix gets pretty acidic with time. So you will need to repot your Hoya Macrophylla more often in this case – we recommend doing it at least once every two years.


Have small children or pets running all over your house? Don’t worry. Hoya Macrophylla is completely safe and non-toxic. This is one exotic plant you can put around the house without constantly fearing a trip to the hospital or vet.


We have already discussed that Hoya Macrophylla is pretty rare and super hard to come by. Hence, wanting to preserve your plant’s legacy is quite natural. Luckily, doing so can be surprisingly simple and easy.

The best way to propagate your Hoya Macrophylla is via cut tendrils. The growing Hoya Macrophylla shoots out tendrils from the central stem to seek support from adjacent structures as it gets taller. To multiply your Hoya Macrophylla, make a diagonal cut through a well-formed tendril that has a couple of nodes and a few healthy leaves – take care that you are not slicing off a budding tendril.

Wrap the cut end in some damp sphagnum moss or place it directly in water. Cover the cutting with a plastic wrap to promote humidity, warmth, and moisture – these factors will help your cutting to root. In a few weeks, you will start seeing new roots sprouting from the cut end. At this point, you can plant your cutting in an already prepared pot and wait for the cutting to stabilize.


Usually, Hoya Macrophylla does not need a lot of pruning. The only times you will need to touch those shears is if you think your plant is getting too big for your space, or if you see a few dead or diseased leaves.

Growing Tips and Guide

While the above directions are enough to ensure the survival of your Hoya Macrophylla, some additional care can make it thrive. Here are a few tips to remember when growing Hoya Macrophylla, which can help prevent a lot of problems.

  • When choosing a pot for Hoya Macrophylla, go for terracotta. These purpose pots have superior drainage and can reduce the effects of overwatering your plant, such as root rot.
  • When propagating Hoya Macrophylla, do not take your cutting out of water and plant into the soil right away. Instead, gradually add soil to the water until all of the water is replaced by the potting mix. This facilitates the cutting to adapt to its new atmosphere readily.
  • If you notice dirt or dust sitting on the leaves of your Hoya Macrophylla, gently wipe it off with a damp cloth. A clean plant does not only look great, but it is also easier for it to breathe.

Common Problems and How to Treat Them


Though Hoya Macrophylla is quite a hardy plant, it too is not immune to pests like mealybugs and aphids.

A mealybug infestation usually presents as yellowing, curling leaves. You may notice them huddled together on the leaf as a tuft of cotton. Similarly, aphids can be found on the underside of the leaves and feed on the sap of the plant, stealing its nutrition. A simple solution to the pest problem is a store-bought pesticide or insecticide. For a DIY organic option, you can also apply neem oil to the leaves.

Mold and fungus

When there are mealybugs on your Hoya Macrophylla, there is bound to be some mold and fungus on there too. Mold can also occur in high humidity with little or no ventilation. These infections can cause great damage to your plant and can make your Hoya Macrophylla look debilitated.

To prevent these, you must keep mealybugs away with the use of insecticides. In addition, you can place an oscillating fan nearby to promote air circulation and make the environment less favorable for the growth of mold.


Why are the leaves of my Hoya Macrophylla yellowing?

Yellow Hoya Macrophylla leaves most commonly mean that you are overwatering your plant. They may also be due to a mealybug infestation.

Does Hoya Macrophylla produce flowers?

Yes, Hoya Macrophylla produces small, round clusters of star-shaped, creamy white flowers with a hint of pink in them. However, their smell is quite a controversial topic. While some say the flowers smell of a combination of sweaty socks and chocolate, others compare the fragrance to the scent of hyacinths.

However, even without blooms, Hoya Macrophylla is quite beautiful and a great option as a decorative indoor plant.

Wrapping it up

Though sourcing a Hoya Macrophylla can be hard, taking care of it is pretty easy. This succulent plant can survive in your home even if you don’t have a green thumb. As long as you are consistent with providing the few basic needs that it has, your Hoya Macrophylla will be forever blooming.

Philodendron brandtianum is also known as philodendron silver leaf, and aka philodendron brandi. It is native to tropical areas and can be grown as both climbing and hanging plants. It produces olive green, and heart-shaped leaves which are distinguished by the presence of silver and white stripes, and patches. These plants are significantly important for air purification due to their excellent pollutant removal properties. These plants are greatly easy to grow and hard to kill. Thus, it is an ideal plant to grow at homes with minimal care and management. This plant is known to be native to Colombia, Ecuador, Brazil, Bolivia, and Peru. This plant is unique in the fact that it can be grown as an epiphyte, hemi-epiphyte, and terrestrial plant.

While the height and size of the plant are greatly dependent on prevailing climatic conditions and the right application of inputs. Generally, the indoor growing plant can attain a maximum height of about five to six feet. While outdoor growing plants can reach a significant length. The leaf length is variable between four to seven inches and can grow to a maximum length of 12 inches. This plant undergoes various morphogenetic stages, and its physical appearance is changed many times during the growing phase. This plant is silver leaf philodendron and is different from the silver satin Pothos. Usually, people are considering these plants like the same ones but there are significantly major differences among these two plants.


Philodendron brandtianum grows well in the USDA zone of 9b-11. It is a hardy plant and can easily tolerate some fluctuation in the growing conditions and mismanagement. However, in areas other than this zone, growers must maintain the optimal conditions to assure the best growth because they cannot tolerate too many unfavorable conditions.

Soil and pH Requirements

Use the fertile growing mix and soil with a good drainage capacity to get the best growth results. These plants need more water than the other houseplants, but the drainage of excess water is essentially important. The use of fertile soil causes a significant increase in growth. The addition of compost, organic materials, compost tea, eggshells, and well-managed kitchen waste is also helpful to improve growth on a sustainable basis. Better growth can be observed by maintaining the soil pH between 6.1-7.3. Soils in the different regions have variable physical, chemical, and biological properties.

Soil fertility, pH, and nutrient absorption can be enhanced by adding specific amendments to the soil. Soil testing before adding any inputs is an ideal way to get an idea about its constituents and what more is required. Growers can contact local agricultural extension services, services of private companies, and soil and water testing laboratories. Usually, agricultural researchers and laboratory scientists also provide details about the use of specific amendments and organic substances. The addition of compost, organic matter, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite is helpful to improve its drainage, water holding capacity, and nutrient provision capacity.


This plant needs indirect and bright light like the other philodendron plants. Direct placement of the plant in the intense and scorching light can cause foliage burning. Growers can also place shade cloths on the plants to provide filtered light. Ideally, this plant can be placed in outdoor conditions and on the porch. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can cause fading and yellowing of the beautiful olive-colored leaves.


This plant is native to tropical areas and requires good watering for better growth and development. It requires watering at least three times a week during the summer seasons, but watering frequency and intensity should be reduced in the winter and spring. The watering requirements of plants are greatly variable according to prevailing climatic conditions. water only when the top two to three inches of the soil is dried.

Checking the soil moisture status by inserting the fingers in it is the best way to get an idea about its watering requirements. Avoid leaf wetting during watering as it may cause disease development, insect pest attacks, and foliage problems. Many growers have reported that overwatering causes leaf dropping during the winter months. However, this plant enjoys humid and damp conditions in the summer season. So, there should be a regular adjustment of the watering schedule according to seasonal variation.


The ideal growing temperature for the philodendron brandtianum ranges between 18-35 degrees Celsius. Growers can move the plant in the outdoor place during the summer conditions. Must place the plants indoors in the winters as frost can kill the plants. Avoid harsh temperatures around the plants and keep the plants away from vents, radiators, heaters, and air-conditioners. This plant can tolerate light frost and the growth is resumed at the start and mid of the spring season. The optimal daytime temperature for this plant is between 20-25 degrees Celsius and the average optimal nighttime temperature ranges between 12-18 degrees Celsius.


This plant needs about 60-70% humidity for better survival and growers must maintain the ideal humidity in its surroundings. The humidity levels for indoor plants can be improved by the water misting and placing the plant in the moisture-filled pebble trays. Regular misting is not a good approach as it may cause bacterial and fungal infections and disease attacks. So, growers should do misting occasionally to promote aeration and to protect the growing plants from root rotting and fungus.


The application of water-soluble and liquid fertilizers is significantly important to provide a steady supply of nutrients to the growing plants. Unfertilized plants have a slower growth rate and stunted appearance. Feeding the philodendron brandtianum plants with slow-release, water-soluble and general-purpose fertilizer is helpful to improve the growth and development. There is no need to fertilize the plants during the cold months. Feeding the growing plants at least once a month during the summer and spring seasons is greatly recommended.

The use of synthetic fertilizers can cause the buildup of salts in the soil and exerts negative effects on the soil biodiversity. Thus, the natural capacity of the soil to release nutrients for plant uptake is reduced. Whereas the use of organic fertilizers greatly improves all physical, chemical, and biological soil properties. These fertilizers also support the beneficial microbial communities and suppress pathogenic populations.


This plant develops leaves in a close association with both climbing and trailing habits. Therefore, it requires good pruning one to two times a year. The denser leaves and foliage hinder the proper air circulation and the retention of water drops can cause adverse effects on its health and development. Removal of dead and damaged leaves is also critically important to improving to improve beauty and looks of the plant.

Philodendron Brandtianum Growing Tips and Guide

  • Follow all instructions to grow this plant both in indoor and outdoor conditions.
  • Purchase the plant, or cuttings from reliable and recommended sources only.
  • Use good quality soil, and potting mix to grow the plant. Always perform testing analysis to check the feasibility of soil to be used for growing.
  • The use of contaminated resources can negatively affect its growth and also causes concerns for the pets, children, and environment.
  • Always grow the plant in the recommended environmental conditions or grow zones. Manage the indoor temperature exactly according to the needs of growing plants.
  • Use devise for monitoring the temperature, pH, humidity, and aeration in the surroundings.
  • Never place the plants near the air conditioners, heaters, and vents.
  • Regularly check the health of plants and the presence of insect pests, and diseases.
  • Always prioritize the use of organic management measures than the use of synthetic chemicals.
  • Keep the plant away from the reach of children, and pets.
  • Adjust the watering, and fertilization schedule according to the exact needs of plants.
  • Replace the water from the container after every few days if it is grown in the water.
  • Use contaminant-free water for watering the plants and always test the water quality in terms of physical, chemical, and biological aspects.
  • Prune the growing plants according to their needs.
  • Immediately remove the diseased, infected, and dead plant parts.

Philodendron Brandtianum Propagation Methods: Step by Step Guide

  • This plant is well known for its ease of propagation.
  • Take the cuttings from healthy growing stems and plants during the growing season.
  • The obtained cuttings can be placed both in the water and soil for further growth and development.
  • Growers can also grow this plant permanently in the water.
  • Fill a clear container or jar with the contaminant-free and good quality water. The use of tap water is not a good approach as it may contain impurities. However, if tap water of a certain area is good enough, it can be used for growing the plants.
  • Leave space of about one inch near the mouth of the jar or container.
  • Allow the water to settle overnight as it favors the chlorine evaporation and chances of damage to the newly obtained cuttings can be reduced.
  • Take 5-8 inches long cutting from disease-free, and vigorously growing plants.
  • Cut the stems immediately below the nodes with the help of sharp gardening clippers, knives, scissors, or shears.
  • Remove all the leaves on the stems and only allow two nodes to stay on the stem.
  • Place the leafless cutting having nodes in the water.
  • Keep the container in the bright but indirect light to support maximum growth and development.
  • Replace the water regularly after the three days to avoid the buildup of toxic materials and pathogenic populations.
  • Root growth will be evident within 10-21 days of placing cuttings in the water.
  • Growers can plant these cutting in the potting mix or soil or can also support the growth in water-filled containers.

Air Layering Philodendron Brandtianum

  • Select a healthy growing stem and carefully place a cut of 1-1.5 inches immediately below the nodes.
  • Prepare sphagnum moss or the contaminant-free organic and carefully wrap this around the cuttings.
  • Secure the moss in its place by using first-aid tape or plastic wrap.
  • The appearance of roots will be evident after 3-4 weeks of performing the above-mentioned practice.
  • The cutting is ready for planting in the water containers, and potting mix, or soil.

Philodendron Brandtianum Potting and Repotting. 

This plant is ideal for growing in terrestrial pots, terrariums, and hanging baskets. So growers can select any container according to their preferences and growing requirements. Repotting is required if this plant is cramped and crowded at its place or in the container. Small-sized pots and containers cannot support the larger growth of roots and stems and the growth is stopped at a specific point. The plant must be repotted at this point to assure better growth and development. Usually, this plant requires repotting in two to three years. It is important to note that the health and length of the plant can be greatly improved by keeping its roots loose. In this way, roots can get more oxygen, moisture, and nutrients and support the vigorous growth of philodendron brandtianum.

Philodendron Brandtianum Common Problems and How to Manage

Bringing newer plants in the homes may pose serious contamination threats and insect pest attacks. Purchasing the plants from reliable stores is helpful to get good results. Disinfecting the new plants with alcohol-dipped swabs and washing with soap-based solutions is a good choice to get rid of pests and disease spread. However, the growing plants are always prone to insects and diseases as any mismanagement and fluctuation make plants more susceptible.

  • Leaf Drooping

Leaf drooping in the philodendron brandtianum is caused due to various biotic and abiotic stresses. However, the common reason for drooping includes excessive watering, over-fertilization, downy mildew, and mealybugs. Growers can easily avoid the problem by maintaining the right growing conditions and keeping a good eye on plant health.

  • Brown Leaves

Philodendron brandtianum requires appropriate watering for healthier growth. Both overirrigation and under irrigation can cause a significant problem for its growth and development. This plant requires more moisture and humidity than the other plants, but mismanaged watering may cause the browning of leaves. Water the plant thoroughly until there is an emergence of water from the drainage holes. Wait for the drying of the soil before scheduling the next watering. Although this plant needs more water, it is not capable of surviving in overly wet and soggy soil.

  • Tip Curling

This problem is caused by overfertilization, and this problem can be greatly avoided by adjusting the fertilizer application according to the requirements of growing plants. Thoroughly watering the plant in the clean sink or under the shower is also a good approach to remove excessive fertilizer. Repotting is also a recommended practice to avoid the adverse effects of the excessively applied slow-released fertilizer.

  • Leaf Spots

This problem occurs when there is an appearance of reddish-brown colored larger spots with irregular shapes, and yellow centers. Growers can avoid this problem by the timely removal of damaged leaves and avoiding overwatering. Drain the excessive water in the tray and saucer because it is also a major reason for leaf spots and root rotting.

  • Root Rotting

Excessive soil moisture and overwatering the plant cause fungal and bacterial infections and root rotting. Growers can easily avoid the problem by adjusting the watering schedules and early detecting and treating the fungal and bacterial attacks and diseases. The plants growing in the excessively wet soil are deprived of oxygen and are not able to breathe appropriately. Thus, the functioning of roots for nutrient absorption, and metabolic activities is reduced, and the growth of plants is stunted. The use of well-drained soils improves the aeration, and drainage and helps to minimize the chances of root rotting.

  • The appearance of V-Shaped Yellow Areas

The appearance of V-shaped yellowish areas on the leaves is most common in cool greenhouses. This problem is associated with magnesium deficiency and can be easily avoided by the right management and control of the fertilization practices. Application of one teaspoon or calculated amount of magnesium sulfate per one gallon of good quality water is helpful to avoid V-shaped yellow leaf areas. Magnesium sulfate is easily available in fertilizer shops and gardening stores.

  • Cold Damage

Cold injuries on this plant cause appearance of dark green and brown blotches between the veins of the leaves. Growers can avoid cold injuries by the maintenance of the right growing environment according to its requirements. Management of the outdoor environment is a difficult task, but they can always protect the plants by moving the containers or pots indoors. Indoor temperature monitoring devices are easily available in the markets and their use helps to improve the sustainability of indoor growing.

  • Bacterial Blight

It is caused by the Erwinia caratovora PV. carotovora E. chrysanthemi causes the development of dark green and small spots on the leaves. These spots rapidly spread and expand to the petioles and cause collapsing of leaves in a wet rot that produces a foul smell. This problem can be easily avoided by minimizing the overhead watering. Immediate removal of infected leaves is greatly recommended to avoid further spread of the problem. Careful watering with detailed monitoring is also helpful to protect leaf surfaces and petioles from wetting.

  • Bacterial Leaf Spot

It causes the appearance of translucent spots on the margins of leaves that becomes reddish-brown having yellowish halos. The size of these spots is also increased with time and they become more irregular shaped, and tan. It is caused by the Xanthomonas campestris PV. Dieffenbachia and the problem can be avoided by avoiding the overhead watering. Removal of infected leaves and purchasing the plants from reliable sources help to minimize the chances of this disease.

  • Spider Mites

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Philodendron brandtianum is commonly infested by spider mites and their populations can be seen on leaf borders and axils. Their presence is evident after watering and plant disturbances. Wipe the leaves with soap-based formulations or alcohol-dipped cotton swabs.

  • Mealybugs

These insects survive well in the warmer areas and are commonly found on almost all houseplants. Their heavy infestation causes stunted growth and death of Philodendron brandtianum. These are soft-bodied and tiny insects and are surrounded by the white, fuzzy stuff on the leaf nodes and stems. These insects are very dangerous for the plants as they feed on the sap and thus photosynthetic capacity, and metabolic activities of plants are reduced.

  • Scales

Scales can be identified by the presence of lumps on their stems. Numerous bugs attacks these plants and the grower may confuse the presence of certain insects with different names. Light infestation of scales can be easily treated by using neem oil and water sprays. The application of horticultural oils helps control the pests but does not completely kill the pest populations. Introduction of ladybugs and other predators for biological control is also the best way to get rid of scales and other insect pests.

  • Aphids

Aphids feed on this plant by eating their leaves and can be identified by the presence of brown and black leaf areas. Their populations can be controlled by using dish detergents, Ivory liquids, neem oil, and insecticidal soaps. Detergents and soaps that do not contain additives and perfumes are more effective against aphids. Also, check the lower sides of the leaves because pests also infest these parts.


Is the Philodendron Brandtianum a toxic plant?

This plant contains certain toxic compounds and can cause swelling, vomiting, breathing difficulties, and skin irritation. Swallowing its leaves and foliage may also cause mouth burning and irritation. It contains higher levels of calcium oxalate crystals, so its toxic and allergic nature is attributed to the presence of this compound. Growers must avoid the contact of this plant with pets and children to avoid serious problems.

How to support the Philodendron Brandtianum?

This is a well-known houseplant and can be easily trained for climbing. It has aerial roots, and its climbing growth can be supported by using different kinds of the trellis. Provision of damp and rough support is more helpful than the latticework and stakes. Many experienced gardeners and researchers have reported that sphagnum moss poles are greatly helpful for supporting this plant. Growers can easily make moss stuffed poles at home by rolling up hardware cloth to make a cylinder. The use of copper mesh is the best choice because it has rust-proof properties. Tie this wire with the cylinder sides and stuff it with the good quality wet sphagnum moss. There is no need to fill the parts that will be below the soil.

Growers can also make the covered pole by using PVC pipe. Tape a specific piece of copper wire or finishing line with the one end of the pole and wrap some sphagnum moss pieces around this pipe. Tightly secure the moss in its place by securely winding the copper wire. Insert the good support in the central point. Plant Philodendron brandtianum around this pole and tie this pole to some veins by using gardening tape or twine. Frequently mist the sphagnum moss to keep it moist for efficient functioning.

Is this plant rare or abundantly available?

This is a rare plant and is not available at all gardening stores and shops. Many shops and gardening stores are not selling locally because of their adaptation and survival in specific climatic conditions.

What growers can do to revive the infected philodendron brandtianum?

As a general rule, the infected plants must be isolated from the other plants and the same gardening tools should never be used for healthy and infected plants. Cut the yellow and brown leaves with clean shears and scissors and wash these cutting tools soon after use. The plants from the extreme yellowing, dead stems, and leaf falling can be saved by using the dry plants’ resuscitation process. Place the infected plant in the basin or sink and fill it with water. Again, it is important to note that water quality is a major concern and only clean water should be used for this purpose.

Let the plant stay in water for a few hours so that it can absorb the maximum water. Drastic pot submersion is also helpful for this purpose. Cut the brown and yellowish leaves and supply liquid fertilizer to help a plant grow in a better way. Moistening of potting soil instead of wetting is also essentially helpful in this perspective. Carefully monitor the plants for the next few weeks and adjust the care and management practices according to their needs.

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