Caring For Your Hoya Shepherdii

If you are bored of the typical tropical plants with big leaves, Hoya Shepherdii is a breath of fresh air. Aptly nicknamed the String Bean Hoya due to its thin, long, and narrow leaves, this plant will add an interesting twist to any indoor houseplant collection.

Hoya Shepherdii was first discovered in the mountains of the Himalayas and Assam. Soon, its unique foliage coupled with the sweet-smelling, star-shaped creamy blooms had captured the hearts of many, and it started appearing as a houseplant in living rooms around the world. Today, this gorgeous plant is one of the most highly sought-after species of the Hoya family.

Not only does the Hoya Shepherdii look appealing to the eye, but this plant also has a very forgiving nature. So if you are just starting out with your houseplant collection and don’t have a natural green thumb, the String Bean Hoya is a great place to begin. Simple to care for and hardy in the face of neglect, this is a great plant to facilitate your learning about taking care of greens.

This guide below will talk about everything you need to know when starting off with a new Hoya Shepherdii plant in your collection.

How To Care For Your Hoya Shepherdii


If there is one thing that you need to be careful about when rearing a Hoya Shepherdii, it is the potting medium. If the soil is anything other than airy and well-draining, your String Bean Hoya is set up for a whole lot of struggle to survive. Water-retaining soil mixes tend to trap excess moisture between the soil particles instead of letting it run through them, and this creates the most favorable environment for root rot.

To avoid any such problems, make sure that your potting mix allows excellent drainage of excess water. For this, you can either pick up a well-draining mix meant for tropicals off the shelf of your local gardening store, or be a little creative and make a tailor-made concoction for your leafy baby.

For those taking the DIY route, some regular houseplant soil and a few handfuls of perlite, orchid bark, and charcoal are all you need. Mix these ingredients together until you achieve the desired drainage and porosity.


Hoya Shepherdii best thrives in plenty of indirect, filtered sunlight. If you are solely relying on the sun, the plant will need at least 6 hours of bright sunlight to show its best potential. But if you don’t get a lot of sun exposure where you live, you will need to supplement what you get with about 10 to 12 hours of artificial lighting.

Both, too much and too little sunlight does not bode well for Hoya Shepherdii. If the sunlight is harsher or much more direct than this plant requires, you risk getting the leaves scorched and yellowed. On the other hand, if the light is not enough, your Hoya plant will fail to grow and bloom as fast as you would want it to. Hence, an east-facing window is a perfect place to put your Hoya Shepherdii plant, where it gets the best of both worlds.


With its waxy foliage, the Hoya Shepherdii is almost semi-succulent. As a result, the leaves of this plant can hold a lot of water. In addition to this, the aerial roots of Hoya Shepherdii are also designed to draw in moisture from the surrounding air. All of these factors work together to make Hoya Shepherdii pretty drought resistant. So, the low-maintenance plant will continue to thrive even if you forget to water it every now and then.

 What Hoya Shepherdii absolutely despises, however, is over-watering. Too much water that stays in the soil can cause its roots to rot and the plant to wilt. The easy way to avoid this from happening is to only water your Hoya Shepherdii when the top layers of the soil are completely dry to touch. For most plants, this will be once every week or so.


While the low-maintenance Hoya Shepherdii can survive even when the humidity levels are quite low, it needs about 50% to 70% humidity in order to truly thrive. Nevertheless, the String Bean Hoya can beautifully show its true potential and blossom in this ideal humidity level.

Sometimes, it is hard to achieve high humidity levels all year round, depending on where you live. If you reside in a drier region but want your Hoya Shepherdii to bloom as it does in its natural habitat, you can use artificial methods to maintain the humidity level. These include using a humidifier, misting your Hoya every now and then, putting it in a pebble tray, or simply crowding it with other houseplants to trap whatever humidity there is in the surrounding air.


As opposed to other Hoya species that come from the hot and humid South East Asia, the Hoya Shepherdii plant traces its origin back to the cold Himalayas. Thus, it should not come as a surprise that the Shepherdii species prefer a slightly cooler setting than the other members of the Hoya family.

The ideal temperature for Hoya Shepherdii ranges between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. However, this is not to say that it cannot tolerate things getting a little warmer or colder than this. On the contrary, Hoya Shepherdii is a hardy plant that can withstand an extensive temperature range. But while survival is possible at somewhat higher or lower temperatures, the growth of the String Bean Hoya is significantly affected at these temperature extremes.


The vining structure of Hoya Shepherdii makes it the perfect houseplant to hang from overhead baskets and glass bottles. In addition to that, it also makes a pretty picture when allowed to climb up a trellis or a moss pole, or when simply grown in a pot. The vines can reach an impressive six feet in length, cascading down the entire length of a wall and producing beautiful clusters of pale, star-shaped flowers during the blooming period. These blooms emit a unique, sweet fragrance so that they are as much a treat for the nose as they are for the eyes.

The flowering period for Hoya Shepherdii lies between late spring and early summer. During this time, the plant produces and sheds a ton of these sweet-smelling fresh flowers that stay on the stalk for a couple of weeks at a time.


Because the mature Hoya Shepherdii has to work so much every year to produce blooms and grow new vines, it needs a good supply of essential nutrients. This is achieved by treating the plant with a good quality fertilizer every now and then.

You can use virtually any well-balanced, liquid fertilizer meant for houseplants on your Hoya Shepherdii. Just make sure that you are treating it the most in its blooming period, and remember to dilute the fertilizer to 50% of its strength to avoid chemical burns to the plant. Then, as the colder months approach, you can reduce the frequency of fertilizing your plant and completely halt it during the dead of winter.


The Hoya Shepherdii vines can grow to a humongous length, and so, you will need to repot the plant once it grows out of its previous container. It is essential to know that Hoya Shepherdii actually prefers to be slightly root bound, though, so you shouldn’t attempt to move it to a bigger home at the first sign of the roots spreading. 

It is only when the roots start to push through the drainage holes and fight for space that you should consider repotting your Hoya Shepherdii. In most cases, this will be no more frequent than once every two years.

The best time to repot your overgrown Hoya Shepherdii plant is during the active growing and blooming period. In terms of season, this translates to late spring and early summer.

The repotting process itself is easy enough. All you need to do is gently probe the plant out along with its roots intact and move it to a slightly bigger pot that has already been prepared with the ideal potting mix. Avoid choosing a pot that is more than a couple of inches larger in diameter than the older one. This will help the plant adapt to the new home quickly and easily.


If you are concerned about your beloved Hoya Shepherdii plant being toxic to your kids or pets, don’t fret! This harmless tropical beauty is not poisonous in the least! This is yet another reason why the String Bean Hoya makes for such a fantastic indoor plant for every home and office space.


Hoya Shepherdii is an epiphyte and spontaneously sprouts aerial roots. This makes propagating the String Bean Hoya ridiculously simple. If you have a Hoya Shepherdii plant and would like to see more of it spread around your house, you can easily grow it via stem cuttings.

Simply identify a healthy stem with at least one node and a few healthy leaves growing out of it and make a diagonal cut just below the node. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and place it in a previously prepared pot with the appropriate soil mix. Keep the soil moist at all times and cover the stem with a plastic bag to retain optimum moisture and humidity. Within a few weeks, the roots will start to take, and a new plant will begin to grow on its own.

Alternatively, you can propagate stem cutting in sphagnum moss or even just water. When doing so, allow the roots to sprout and grow at least a couple of inches long before attempting to move the new plant into a pot of its own.


As we have already mentioned, the Hoya Shepherdii vines tend to get quite long – even when kept indoors. This is great if you want long trails of your String Bean Hoya to cascade down a wall or hang from an overhead basket. But if you are growing this luscious beauty in a pot, things can get a little messy. In this situation, you can prune and trim the ends that get a little too long to keep things neat and maintain the aesthetics.

Growing Tips and Guide

Want to ensure that your Hoya Shepherdii stays healthy and happy all year round? Here are a few tips that you can use to keep your Hoya Shepherdii problem-free.

  • Be careful about your choice of potting mix. Above all, it should have excellent drainage properties to prevent root rot and other such issues.
  • Hold off on watering the plant if the top layers of the soil are still somewhat damp. The Hoya Shepherdii does not respond well to overwatering.
  • Try to keep a consistent humidity level and surrounding temperature. While Hoya Shepherdii is quite tolerant of different conditions, big changes will put your plant through unnecessary stress, showing its adverse effects in the long run.
  • Try a good quality liquid fertilizer if you want to give your Hoya Shepherdii plant a little boost. It’s incredible what a simple treat can do for Hoya Shepherdii. 

Common Problems and How to Treat them

Like every other plant, Hoya Shepherdii, too, can fall victim to a variety of problems. These issues can be broadly categorized into two classes, pests, and diseases.


The most common pests that attack the Hoya Shepherdii plant are mealy bugs. In addition to these, spider mite infestations and aphids are also a concern with this tropical plant.

All these pests feed on the sap of the Hoya Shepherdii plant to survive. Unfortunately, this takes away essential nutrition from the plant itself, and results in its ill-health. The simplest way to tackle this issue is to use a good insecticide or pesticide.

There are several insecticides and pesticides available for purchase in local gardening stores. But if you would like a more DIY approach, you can also use some diluted Castille soap as a makeshift insecticide. Neem oil also makes for an excellent pest deterrent that is organic to boot.


The most common diseases you will see in relation to Hoya Shepherdii are bacterial and fungal infections. Of these, root rot is the biggest problem faced by Hoya Shepherdii owners around the world. Fortunately, these diseases have a simple causative factor that can be tackled quite easily.

These diseases mainly arise when too much water is swamped up in the soil. This can either be from using a poorly draining potting mix or overwatering your Hoya Shepherdii. Addressing these two issues will help you fight off the bacterial and fungal infections from your Hoya Shepherdii. 

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Can Hoya Shepherdii flower under fluorescent or artificial lighting?

While natural bright, indirect sunlight is best for the Hoya Shepherdii plant, it is not essential for its growth. If you don’t have access to natural sunlight, you can use artificial means to help your String Bean Hoya grow and bloom. When all the other conditions are met, there is not much difference between a Hoya Shepherdii that is grown in natural sunlight and one that has been cultivated under fluorescent lighting.

Does Hoya Shepherdii become dormant?

During the winter months, the plant does not grow as rapidly. However, there is never a state of complete rest or dormancy for the Hoya Shepherdii.

What is the best fertilizer for Hoya Shepherdii?

Any regular houseplant fertilizer works for Hoya Shepherdii. However, for the best results, we suggest a well-balanced NPK liquid fertilizer that has been diluted to 50% of its strength.

Wrapping It Up

And there’s that! By following the directions in this guide, you, too, can have a magnificent Hoya Shepherdii plant decor in your living room. 

Caring For Your Hoya Obscura

The Hoya Obscura is one of the most unique plants in the world. Their glossy, waxy leaves set them apart from the rest of the plants in any garden. This is a type of plant that sticks to its shape while it’s young, and the leaves just grow bigger with time. The only thing that changes is the opacity of the leaves, they get thinner, and lose some of their color in the process, but the overall shape stays the same.

Contrary to what most people think, this plant isn’t very difficult to grow! It requires you to have adequate information to grow it, but if you go in with a plan, you’ll be able to grow Hoya Obscura as if it were just growing in the wild! 

While there isn’t a lot of care required, the right care is key to making sure no matter what plan you’ve decided to grow, it grows well and stays healthy forever. This guide is the starting point to making that happen!

How To Care For Your Hoya Obscura

Here are the basics of caring for your Hoya Obscura. With this information in hand, you’ll be able to grow the plant just right! 


When it comes to any type of plant, soil is quite literally where you start. So make sure that this part is always taken care of. Hoya Obscura needs high quality, light and well-draining. Chunkier soil does best here because it’s very easy for the water to drain through it. That way, even if you’re not particularly careful about watering it the right amount, chances are it’ll be able to drain out the excess water easily and keep the plant root as healthy as possible. 

Regular potting mix does the trick here, so if you already have some left over from the rest of the garden, it can easily be used here too. However, if that’s not available, try adding perlite, and orchid bark or any other additives that could help with the draining and the plant should still be able to grow just fine. 

The point here is to have the soil be as nutrient rich as possible, and have enough drainage that the plant isn’t at constant risk of water logging and is able to get plentiful oxygen through the gaps in the soil. The right soil conditions are essential to making sure the plant grows well.


Even though Hoya Obscura is a houseplant, it’s not one to shy away from the sun. This is a plant that really thrives in sunlight, and needs plenty of it to stay vibrant. If you put it in a spot that’s away from the windows or simply doesn’t get direct sunlight, the colors will start to fade and the leaves might not be able to keep their consistency. 

For best growth, this plant should be placed in direct sunlight for at least 6 hours every day. Placing it near a sun facing window would do best so it’s able to harness all the direct day sun that it possibly can. If that’s not possible, just move the plant to a sunlit area for a few hours in the day, so it’s able to soak the sunlight and keep growing. 


The Hoya Obscura doesn’t really need copious amounts of water. It’s semi-succulent, and can survive just fine with moderate watering here and there. That means that if you’re watering this one like a “regular” plant, chances are that the water will stay trapped in the soil and cause severe water logging. 

It’s best to allow the soil of this plant to partially dry between waterings. It’s better to let the soil dry a little too much than have it be too overwatered. Not only does over watering put the plant at risk for root, but it’ll also be at risk for developing major fungal infections which might end up destroying the planet from the root to the top. 

To avoid overwatering, just use your finger to check how wet the soil is. If that’s too confusing for you, get a moisture meter that will tell you exactly how wet the soil really is so you water it just when it’s dry enough. With accurate readings there’s no need for expert guesswork, just follow the numbers and you’re good. 


Hoya Obscura originates from the Philippines, which means that it likes to be in highly humid areas. The plant prefers being in at least 60% humidity throughout the year. In this type of environment, it’ll grow the best leaves and the color will also stay bright and vibrant. 

While that might be ideal humidity levels, it doesn’t mean that the plant cannot survive without it. It usually does well in average room humidity, so if you’re not using air conditioning or heaters, the plant will be just fine. Just make sure that the humidity levels aren’t falling lower than 30, and it should still be good to go. If you’re noticing the leaves turning brown slightly, or the foliage isn’t doing that well, it’s a sign that the humidity levels are too low and need to be raised. 

If your area doesn’t have enough humidity to keep the plant growing the way it’s supposed to, you can get a humidifier. With it, you’ll be able to read the humidity levels of the room, and add extra humidity wherever needed.


Hoya obscura can do well in moderate temperatures, but it does best in 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. During the summer time, when the humidity levels are higher, it can also fare well in 86 to 100 degrees as well. High temperatures and direct sunlight isn’t a problem at all, but anything lower than 55 degrees may cause harm to the plant overall. If your area is prone to frost and freezing temperatures, the plant will not survive and you will have to take extra measures to keep it warm and humid enough to make it through the winter. 



Even though Hoya Obscura leaves are known for being unique, their flowers are a step further up. However, the plant does need a bit of a boost here and there for it to grow the leaves and the flowers as best as possible. 

It appreciates a fertilizing spell every spring to summer. That’s the growing season for this plant and with the extra fertilizer it has an easier time blooming to its full ability. During the growing season, take balanced liquid fertilizer that’s been diluted to about half strength. This way the plant won’t accidentally burn because of over fertilizing. You can add this mixture to the plant about once a month throughout the spring and summer. However, if you think that your plant isn’t really growing the way it’s supposed to, you could also add it every 15 days and see if that makes a difference.

It’s a good idea to stay away from fertilizer during fall and winter. The fertilizing from the growing season will be enough to help it get through the winter too.


While the Hoya Obscura is young, it will seem like the plant will just continue on in the tiny size, but that’s not the case. As it grows older, it’ll start to get quite big. If you’re growing it in a container, as soon as you notice the plant spilling over, get a pole and guide it up. That way, it will be able to grow up instead of all over the place. It’ll make it much easier to handle the plant because it can easily grow to around 8 feet too! 

Even with the pole to climb on, this vining plant can grow very dense, so it will spread out as it gets older. In that case, you’ll have to start pruning it. The general rule of thumb here is to never prine away more than one third of the plant at a time. If you do, the growth gets affected greatly. Steer clear of the spurs so the flowers stay intact, although it is still fine to prune from spurs if you’re trying to get rid of a whole branch. 

The key here is to remember, start slow. You can always prune more, but you can’t bring back something that’s already gone. 


Hoya Obscura – Growing Tips 

Growing the Hoya Obscura isn’t super difficult. The plant will grow well as long as you’re:

  • Maintaining the humidity levels over 30% (60% to be ideal)
  • Keeping it in a warm room
  • Providing ample sunlight to the plant for at least 4-6 hours of the day
  • Watering it just enough 
  • Make sure the soil is well draining
  • Fertilize it when necessary 

With these basic caring steps, the plant will be able to grow just right! 

Common Problems With Hoya Obscura and How to Treat them

Now that we’ve been over the basic care requirements and growing tips, here are some of the most common problems you might have to face while growing the Hoya Obscura, and how you can treat them easily!


This is by far the most common problem most people run into. Hoya Obscura looks like a plant that would need a lot of water, but that’s not the case. Since it’s succulent, you can easily go days without watering it at all and it will actually thrive in that environment.

If you overwater it, you put it at risk for water logging, root rot, and foliage loss. 


Hoya Obscura is usually grown indoors, but even then, it’s not immune to pests. You might notice ants, Mealybugs, or Spider mites on the plant. But that can be taken care of. For ants, just dust a little bit of ant killer on the plant every now and then. Mealybugs can be taken care of with a dab of alcohol on the leaves. Spider mites can be eliminated using insecticide. 

With the pests gone, the plant will grow better and healthier, faster. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I be misting my Hoya Obscura?

If the plant isn’t in a room with adequate humidity levels, you can mist the plant every now and then to raise it. 

How much sun does the Hoya Obscura need?

The plant thrives in direct sunlight, so keeping it by the window all day is best! 

Is my Hoya Obscura not safe for pets?

While the Hoya Obscura isn’t toxic, ingesting the plant might make your pets sick. 

How long does it take for Hoya Obscura to root?

Once you plant the Hoya Obscura, the roots should start to form within three to four week. 


Wrapping It Up

The Hoya Obscura can be a great addition to just about any garden. As long as you’re patient while planting it, and taking care of it throughout the initial growing stages, there will come a point that you barely need to think about the care and constant upkeep of the plant, you’ll be able to take care of it super easily! 

Caring For Your Anthurium Veitchii

Anthurium veitchii is also known as king Anthurium and belongs to the monstera genus. This tropical plant was first introduced to Europe by plant enthusiast John Veitch. He was the owner of many nurseries, and this plant was named after his name. It is essential to note this plant is different from queen anthurium and has a different morphology and care requirements. This plant is native to the Columbian rainforests of South America. It grows as an epiphyte plant on the other trees and obtains nutrients from the host plants. Its leaves can attain a maximum length of about 6.6 feet and are highly corrugated, like beautiful abdominal abs. Anthurium veitchii is an aroid plant, so it develops spadix and spathe.

It is a large epiphyte plant and produces mildly light green and corrugated leaves. Its leaves can grow 15-20 cm in width and 1.2-2 m in length. The colour of the spathe is light and dull green, while its spadix is white. This plant is vital for ornamental purposes and can be used for hanging baskets, container planting, and interior landscaping. It is a perennial evergreen plant, and its leaves remain functional throughout the year. The enormous leaves grow in a drooping fashion and are arrow-shaped or oval-shaped. It has herbaceous and long stems bearing leaves.


This plant grows well in the USDA zone between 10-11. Growers living in this zone can quickly grow this plant outdoor. The majority of the growers and researchers have reported that it grows well in potted indoor conditions. Management of indoor conditions is significantly easy than the outdoor climate. So, growers can easily protect the indoor growing plant by providing the right conditions.


This plant has an epiphyte growing nature and its roots can easily grow well without soil. It also obtains nutrients from debris, rain, and wind. The houseplants are not capable of getting nutrients from the outer environment. So, growers must use nutrient-rich, good-quality, and fertile grow media to get the best growth and development. These plants grow well in well-drained and airy soil conditions. The use of clay soil is not a good choice as it has less nutrient provision capacity, water holding capacity, and aeration.

The use of loamy and well-structured soils allows air pockets formation, and good circulation is also helpful to minimize the disease development chances such as root rot. Growers can easily make the well-aerated soil mix at home by using volcanic rock, activated charcoal, sphagnum moss, coconut coir, peat moss, orchid bark, perlite, and compost. The use of activated charcoal, volcanic rocks, orchid bark, and perlite is essentially helpful to improve soil drainage and aeration.

It is also possible to take the soil from different areas and mix it properly for making the ideal growing media. Soil testing before direct use is a great way to get an idea about contaminants and nutrients. Different soil testing kits are available in the markets, online stores, and gardening centres. Growers can also benefit from local soil and water testing laboratories and agriculture extension workers. Moreover, optimizing fertilizer application according to soil fertility and plant needs is greatly important to get good results. Both overfertilization and under fertilization exerts adverse effects on growing plants.

Light Requirements 

This plant grows well in the presence of filtered bright light. Growing this plant near the trees is also an ideal choice because it helps plants get fileted sunlight through leaves and treetops. Direct exposure to sunlight is not a good approach as it causes sunburn. Placing the plants near windows is also an excellent way to get bright indirect sunlight.


The watering requirements of this plant are not much high as it goes well with only one watering a week. However, the watering schedule is dependent on the growing environmental conditions, type of growing media, and plant variety. The plants growing in humid climatic conditions have low watering requirements. While the anthurium plants growing in the hot summer conditions needs more watering intensity and frequency. Growers can also check the watering needs by inserting the fingers in the soil.


Anthurium veitchii grows well in cooler climatic conditions. Temperature between 15-26 °C is an ideal choice for best growth. The fluctuation from this range causes stress, and plants’ growth is negatively affected. This plant cannot tolerate external pressure as it has soft leaves. Growers must ensure no contact between this plant and heavier objects to avoid foliage damage.


This plant is native to the forests and grows well in higher humidity levels. Ideally, growers must maintain humidity levels above 60%. Provision of sufficient airflow and humidity is also essential to avoid bacterial infections and disease development. There are many possible ways to increase humidity around the growing plants, and some of the best methods in this aspect are as follows.

Pebble trays: Placing the water-filled trays below the pots is an excellent way to improve humidity around growing plants. Growers must add water regularly to this tray to get good moisture.

Keeping plants together: Putting the plants in closer vicinity is also the best way to improve humidity. Growers must have a good eye on the growing plants as closely placed plants have more chances of infection and diseases.

Humidifiers: Humidifiers are the best approach as they offer targeted and oriented control. Different types of humidifiers are available in the market and gardening stores, and gardeners can easily select any according to the style and size of growing plants and environmental conditions. Some humidifiers are provided with sensors, and they stop working when the humidity is about 80%.

Using enclosed plastic containers: Maintaining proper humidity according to plant requirements is not a much-complicated task. Covering the plants with plastic containers is significantly helpful to maintain constant humidity for extended periods. It may look unaesthetic, and the availability of the right cover according to plant size may also be a problem. It also needs frequent water spraying. At the same time, the entire opening and closing of the lid may also be tricky for some growers.

Terrarium: Bioactive vivariums or terrariums are ideally helpful to improve humidity for tropical plants. These are available in different sizes and can also add beauty to the growing spaces. It allows the creation of proper forest-like climatic conditions and thus provides ideal humidity to the growing plants.


These plants require a minute number of fertilizers because these are epiphytes. Usually, these plants quickly get nutrients from other trees, debris, wind, and air, but indoor growing plants are dependent on fertilization. So, growers must add fertilizers according to the needs of plants, growing stage, and soil type. The use of organic fertilizers is more recommended as it causes significant improvement in soil’s physical, chemical, and biological properties. Water-soluble fertilizers and foliar spraying is also excellent choice to get ideal results. Application of NPK fertilizer in the ratio of 9:3:6 helps to assure good growth and development.

Growing Anthurium Veitchii by Propagation 

The propagation requirements of this plant are much similar to other aroid plants. The easiest way for propagating this plant is by using stem cuttings. Propagation from the seeds is complex because of the less availability of vigorous seeds.

  • Select healthy growing and disease-free stems.
  • Take the cuttings having at least 1-2 nodes.
  • Air layering is also good to take the best newer growth and development. Identification of air roots with the leaves is better than induced air layering.
  • Stem division is also a better way of propagation. This method is only suitable for plants having a cluster of healthy growing stems.
  • Take cuttings by using good-quality knives, scissors, or pruning shears.
  • Rub the alcohol on blades for disinfecting and place it on the flame. This flame treatment for a few seconds is crucial to kill pathogens and infection-causing organisms.
  • Insert the cuttings in the cinnamon powder. It helps with healing and wound protection.
  • Place the cuttings in the rooting hormone to boost the rooting development.
  • Put the well-treated cutting in the growing media or sphagnum moss. Water it properly for rooting development.
  • Root growth will be evident after 3-4 weeks.
  • Allow the development of roots to a few inches before placing them in the final growing medium.

Propagation by Division

  • Growers can quickly propagate this plant by division at the repotting time.
  • Gently take a healthy growing root ball from the container.
  • Removing a plant from one place and inserting it in another place cause significant shock and stress. So must perform the practices with great care to avoid significant problems.
  • Growers can easily remove the ball with their hands. Using sharp but disinfected objects is also the best approach to take root ball.
  • Plant the separated segment in a different pot and fill it with good quality and contaminant-free soil.
  • The division offers faster results than stem-based propagation due to root ball formation on the fully matured plant.

Potting and Repotting 

Anthurium veitchii grows slowly and rarely outgrows the containers in three years. It needs repotting for growth acceleration and development. It is also possible to let the plant stay in its current pot, negatively affecting its growth. This plant can grow bigger provided by enough space and the right growing conditions. The emergence of roots from the drainage holes indicates repotting requirements. Deep pots are a favourable approach to help the plants set their foundation. However, it is a must to insert more drainage holes to support efficient drainage. The use of pots made from clay and terra cotta material is also an excellent approach to better drainage.

Remove the plant from the present container and remove extra dirt. Cut all the improperly growing roots and remove the older, dying, and diseased parts. Untangle the growing roots and do a detailed analysis for the presence of mushy and black ends. Place the plant in a new container and fill it with good quality soil and potting mix. Stabilize the plant in upright conditions. Don’t allow the contact of leaves with the soil and growing media. Thoroughly water the soil and add organic fertilizers to support soil biodiversity and fertility.


These plants have slow-growing nature, and thus, there is no requirement for regular pruning. Growers must regularly inspect the health of growing plants. Removal of dead foliage and diseased parts is critically important to avoid further damage. Trimming the drooping stems gives good shape to the plant and enhances the beauty of growing spaces. Pruning is also helpful to minimize the energy losses of plants for dead and diseased leaves. Removal of infected and dying plants helps the plants to use energy for new leaves and blooms.

Direct skin contact with this plant can cause itching and some irritations. So, the use of gloves is greatly recommended to avoid discomfort. Must clean and sanitize the pruning tools with alcohol or other sanitizers. This practice helps to eliminate the chances of bacterial and fungal infections. The cuts on plants also cause wound formation and provide a significant pathway for bacterial and fungal infections.

Anthurium Veitchii Grow Tips and Guide 

  • Use good quality soil and grow media to ensure better growth.
  • Maintain humidity levels between 60-80%.
  • Avoid sudden drops and rises in the growing temperature.
  • Maintain a neat and clean microclimate.
  • Use organic fertilizers than synthetic chemicals.
  • Introduce beneficial insects to the growing plants and gardens.
  • Use a mixture of organic and inorganic grow media to get good results.
  • Fertilize plants properly according to the soil fertility level and plant requirements.
  • Ensure proper air circulation in the growing conditions.

Similar Plants and Varieties of Anthurium Veitchii 

  • Anthurium Clarinervium 

This plant produces heart-shaped and velvety leaves with perky looks. This plant is not readily available and is difficult to find in all the states of the USA.

  • Anthurium superbum 

This plant grows in a rosette shape dense pattern and produces rounded and ruffled leaves in the vertical direction.

  • Anthurium Ace of Spades 

It is also a hybrid plant and produces dark purple, velvety green leaves. The colour of leaves may look like black due to darker shades.

  • Anthurium Magnificum x Crystallinum 

It is also a hybrid plant and produces bright white and velvety leaves with venation. Its new leaves are bright red, and their colour is changed to bright white with maturity.

Common Problems and How to Treat

Damaged Leaves 

Leaf damage is a most common problem with the growing anthurium veitchii. Mainly this problem is caused due to contact of this plant with the other objects. Growers can easily observe this damage by the presence of deformations and cracks. Sometimes humidity also causes leaf damage, so growers must maintain optimally humid conditions. Less and high humidity hinders the usual emergence of leaves from the cataphyll. This process is similar to that of dry birth. Higher humidity acts as a lubricant and helps the proper emergence and growth of newer leaves.

Growers can easily avoid the problem by preventing plants’ contact with other objects and maintaining proper humid conditions. Too windy conditions and air movement also cause tears and perforation in the leaves. So, keep the plants in protected places to avoid any problems. Also, keep the plant away from heaters, ventilators, fans, and air conditioners.

Bacterial Blight 

It causes water-soaked lesions and leaf yellowing on the margins that grow rapidly and make V-shaped lesions. It is caused by the bacterial entrance to the hydathodes pores, specifically along the margins of leaves. Bacteria can also enter the leaf tissues through the wounds caused by pruning, flower harvesting, and insect pest attack.

Growers can easily avoid this problem by adopting the following management measures.

  • Reducing indoor temperature and humidity by enhancing ventilation and air circulation.
  • Avoiding soil saturation.
  • Using tissue cultured and clean plantlets.
  • Reducing wounding probability and effective treatment of wounds.
  • Regular and oriented use of disinfectants and sterilization practices.
  • Immediate discarding the heavily infected plants.

Bacterial Wilt

The first symptom of bacterial wilt is chlorosis or leaf yellowing. It rapidly spreads in the whole vascular system of the plants and causes browning and bronzing of stems and leaves. Bacterial ooze or brown slime is also evident if cuts are made in the highly infected plant parts. Good sanitation practices are essentially helpful to reduce the chances of bacterial wilt. Phosphorus acid-containing fungicides are also effective for the treatment of infected plants. Bacterial wilt easily spread through the worker’s contact and the use of contaminated tools, water, and soil. The use of disease-free and sanitized tools is a great way to reduce the problem.

Rhizoctonia Root Rot 

The most common reason for Rhizoctonia root rot is damping off. Tender and younger stems become water-soaked and girdled and cannot bear plant weight. The attack of Rhizoctonia is on the lower branches and plant roots. At the same time, it can also attack the upper plant parts and canopy under wet or saturated conditions. This problem is caused by the Rhizoctonia solani that can live in the soil for numerous years even without the host plants. The chances of this disease are enhanced due to the use of saturated grow media. It is possible to avoid this problem by sterilizing growing media and tools and controlling temperature and humidity.

Black Nose Disease 

Black nose disease is a common problem for potted plants and cut flower production. It greatly reduces the appearance and economic value of the plants and flowers. It causes the appearance of brown to black and smaller flecks on the floral spadix. These spots rapidly become bigger and watery and encompass the spadix. It may also cause flower drop in severe conditions. The problem is caused by the fungal attack in the temperate and tropical climatic conditions and causes significant damage to the flowers, leaves, roots, and stems. The severity of this disease is more during the humid and warm regions. Disease chances are also more on the plant parts already damaged by bacterial blight, fertilizers, and pesticides.

Insect Pest Attack 

Insect pests attack indoor and outdoor plants, but growers can easily maintain their populations through preventive and protective measures. Usually, anthurium plants have less attraction for the pests than the philodendron and monstera plants. The most common pest on this plant includes spider mites, scales, whiteflies, thrips, and mealybugs. Early detection of problems and integrated pest management practices help get better control.


These are soft-bodied, small, dull-white, and wingless insects producing powdery waxlike substances. These insects have sucking or piercing mouthparts and suck the cell sap from plants. They look like tiny cotton pieces and cause congregation on the leaves and stem branches. These bugs feed on a wide range of plants and commonly attack houseplants. The younger populations move around on all the plants until they find a good feeding hotspot. Mealybugs feed on the plants in colonies so growers can easily control their populations. Mealybug’s attack can weaken the plants’ immune system and survival capacity, leading to the leaf drop and foliage yellowing.

Moreover, these insects also secrete fungal growth, having a black surface (sooty mould). So, it dramatically reduces the plant’s beauty and attractiveness. Immediate isolation of the infected plants is fundamental to avoid further spread, and early detection of pests helps control their populations timely. Some organic pesticides are also available in the market to control the mealybugs. The use of heavy doses of synthetic chemicals is not recommended for house plants. Therefore, growers can easily avoid toxicity and pest population by using integrated pest management practices.

Scale Insects 

These insects are similar to mealybugs and can attack a wide range of outdoor and indoor plants. The younger insects crawl on various plants to find suitable feeding sources. The adult females also lay their eggs on the plants protected by the hard-shell layer. They look like bumps, and growers can easily observe them on the undersides of leaves. Their mouthparts are of piercing nature, and these insects feed on plants by sucking the cell sap. Scales attack also causes leaf drop and foliage yellowing. These insects also produce honeydew and cause the formation of sooty mould. Controlling the scales population is a pretty challenging task. Isolation of the infected plants is a significant task to protect other growing plants. The introduction of natural insects is essential to minimize their populations.


Why my Anthurium veitchii plant is growing slowly? 

This plant has a naturally slow-growing habit. Usually, it develops new leaves in three months. So, there is no need to worry about slow growth and development. Growers must maintain the right growing conditions and inputs to avoid biotic and abiotic stresses.

Why are the leaves of a smaller size? 

The smaller leaf size of anthurium veitchii indicates less soil fertility and under fertilization, and this plant needs fertilization after every other week. The use of organic fertilizers, water-soluble fertilizers, and the proper fertilization schedule is essential to improving leaf size and plant vigour.

Is Anthurium veitchii toxic? 

Yes, this plant is toxic, and it can cause skin irritation, mouth allergies, and stomach problems. So, growers must plant away from the reach of children and pets.

Can I use coffee grounds for Anthurium veitchii soil fertilization? 

The use of coffee grounds and well-composted kitchen waste is ideal for providing macro and micronutrients to the growing Anthurium. Coffee grounds offer more nitrogen than peat moss. Moreover, its addition is also helpful in terms of mulching perspectives. So, it helps for the moderation of soil temperature and water.

Can this plant go dormant? 

Dormancy is an inevitable event for plants. All plants undergo dormant conditions at some stage during their lifecycle, and it helps plants conserve energy and protect it from harsh environmental conditions. This plant goes dormant during the winter and stops growing until the following season.

Is Anthurium veitchii plant durable? 

This plant has good durability and grows for many years. Provision of the right inputs, care, and management is crucial to improve its lifespan, health, and appearance.

Can I cut and store the Anthurium veitchii flowers? 

This plant produces beautiful flowers, and growers can cut the flowers for aesthetic and decoration purposes. Keeping the flowers in the freshwater or soaked oasis helps to maintain their freshness for several days. Cutting the flowers with a healthy and long stem is essential to make easy arrangements and management measures. Flowers with short stems are also appropriate to be used as cut flowers. Usually, these flowers look best when clustered in the juice glass and floated in the bowels.

Always cut these flowers in the morning for the best results. Use sharp pruners and scissors to make the cuts. Plunge the foliage and flowers in water-filled buckets. Store the flowers in a cool and dry place for better results. Frequently change the water to avoid contamination and diseases. Also, wash containers and vases to get rid of bacterial and fungal infections.



Caring for your Begonia Maculata

With a stunning combination of silver spots on the top and a rich red to purple on the bottom, the unique leaves of Begonia Maculata add an element of interest to any boring indoor space. This idiosyncratic spotted appearance of the plant has rightly earned it the name of Polka Dot Begonia or Spotted Begonia. Angel Wing Begonia and Trout Begonia are some more common names that are usually used for this beauty.

Begonia Maculata was first found in the 1600s in Southeast Brazil, and was named after the Governor in its native area – Micheal Begon. The plant grows abundantly and lusciously in the Atlantic Rainforest today.

Though it is easy enough to cultivate Begonia Maculata in these regions, growing it elsewhere requires quite a bit of effort. So, if you are aiming to add spark to your indoor garden with this beauty, you have got to be willing to put in the work. Here is a detailed guide to keeping your Begonia Maculata happy and flourishing in any indoor setting.

How to care for your Begonia Maculata


The most common mistake that Begonia owners make is using the wrong soil mixture for their plant.

The Polka Dot Begonia is especially susceptible to root rot, and must be rooted in well-draining soil to avoid this problem. If the soil is not porous enough and holds the water instead of letting it run through, the roots may become infected and start decaying.

A good mix of equal parts of sand, clay, perlite, and loamy soil makes for a nice growing medium for the Begonia Maculata. This potting mix contains plenty of air pockets providing the necessary ventilation and drainage that your plant needs to stay healthy and happy.


When it comes to light, the Begonia Maculata requires plenty of it. Simply an hour or two of being in the sun does not cut it for this beautiful plant. If you want to see the true potential of your Begonia, make sure that it is getting ample sunlight.

At the same time, direct sunlight that is too intense may cause the leaves to burn. When growing a Begonia Maculata plant, you have to be careful about the placement of your pot. The best location for it would be in front of an east or west facing window, where the light is filtered and more gentle to the plant, but spread out over the daytime hours.


Maintaining the right balance between too wet and too dry is another challenge with the Begonia Maculata. Mostly, Begonia enthusiasts find the sweet spot between the two by practice and trial and error. But if you know a few tell-tale signs of overwatering and underwatering your Begonia Maculata, you can save it from a lot of unnecessary stress.

Ideally, the soil mixture of your Begonia Maculata should always be a little damp to touch. This sensitive plant loves its moisture and does not like it when the soil runs too dry. However, as we already mentioned before, it is also very susceptible to root rot – a problem that arises due to frequent watering and poor drainage.

To figure out when your plant needs to be replenished, do the finger-soil test. Simply stick in the finger about an inch deep into the soil to feel for dampness. If the soil feels too dry to touch, this is a clear indication that your Begonia Maculata is thirsty. Usually, your plant will need to be watered once every week.

When you water your plant, always take care to water it directly at the roots. Wet leaves are another problem that you do not want.


To maintain its stunning foliage, the Begonia Maculata requires humidity levels to be above 50%. If you live in a dry, arid region, you may have some trouble achieving this level of humidity. A smart hack would be to place your plant in the kitchen or the bathroom in these cases, as these areas of the house are typically more humid than the rest. Of course, you will have to ensure that the rest of its needs, such as the right sunlight and temperature, are also being met.

Other methods of maintaining high humidity are placing a pebble filled water saucer or a humidifier near your Begonia Maculata. Alternatively, you can house your plant in a terrarium where these conditions are artificially maintained.


As you would expect from any other tropical plant, Begonia Maculata, too, needs a hot and humid environment to thrive. For the best possible results, keep the temperature between a comfortable 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Any temperature below 60 degrees Fahrenheit would be too cold for this tropical beauty, and it may affect the growth rate and spread of its beautiful leaves.


Talking about growth, this plant is quite an impressive species. The maximum potential height for a Begonia Maculata being grown indoors is around 4.9 feet. When the conditions are favorable, the leaves also tend to get pretty big, reaching almost 8 inches in length. Along with these larger leaves, you will also find a few small ones here and there, giving the Begonia Maculata its characteristic bushy appearance.

As the leaves sprout, they have a pink to maroon hue to them. However, the color deepens as they mature, with the adult leaf having a dark green upper surface with prominent silver spots, and a beautiful red on the underside.


Regular pruning will encourage your Begonia Maculata to grow faster and spread its foliage wider. By taking off the wilting blooms and leaves, you effectively conserve the nutrition that the plant was spending in trying to maintain these hopeless appendages. This diverts the nutrition to the growing parts of your Begonia Maculata, sprouting new shoots and leaves.

Trimming down the overgrown branches can also help your Begonia Maculata gain a couple of inches in height. The practice also results in a bushier, more aesthetic plant. Spring and summer are the best seasons to prune and shape up your Polka Dot Begonia.


If you notice that your spotted princess is looking a bit sad and nothing seems to be helping, try giving it a little liquid fertilizer as a treat. Sometimes, the soil may be running out of essential nutrients and your Begonia Maculata may need a little extra help to flourish.

During the growing seasons of Spring and Summer, you should add a good quality liquid fertilizer to the soil once every two weeks. In the colder seasons when the plant is not in its active growth phase, you can cut down the frequency to once in two months.

When using fertilizer, beware of chemical burns. The sensitive Begonia Maculata can be easily damaged if the fertilizer you have used is too strong. To prevent this from happening, dilute your liquid fertilizer in twice the volume of water that is recommended on the packaging.


The pot you choose to plant your Begonia Maculata is yet another factor that can influence its growth. Unlike most other houseplants, this gorgeous indoor plant prefers a snug and cozy home. Hence, a smaller pot that hugs the roots is best to grow a Begonia Maculata.

At the same time, the Begonia Maculata grows out of its snug home quite quickly. With an impressive growth rate, especially during the initial years, you will need to repot your plant quite frequently. When you notice that the plant is struggling to find room to grow and the roots begin to poke out of the drainage hole, it is time to relocate your Begonia Maculata in a slightly bigger pot.

Like pruning, repotting is also best done during the active growth seasons – that is, in the spring and summer months. When picking out a suitable pot for Begonia Maculata, make sure that it has proper drainage holes to prevent the all-too-common root rot.


Any house that has small children or pets running all around is not suitable to grow a Begonia Maculata in. If you are adamant on rearing one of these despite having kids – whether your own or the furry ones – make sure that you put the plant in an inaccessible location.

Although the plant will not really kill you, it can cause irritation and moderate to severe gastrointestinal problems if ingested. Cats are especially vulnerable to the toxic effects of Begonia Maculata.

Growing Tips and Guide

Several common problems can be avoided if you know a few tips about growing Begonia Maculata indoors. Here are a few hacks that may help you steer clear of these easily avoidable issues.

  • If your house does not get enough sunlight, you can place your Begonia Maculata outdoors for a few hours everyday. Just remember to bring it back inside for the night.
  • If you live in a colder region, be extra careful about the temperature. The plant will instantly start to wilt if it gets too cold.
  • A soil moisture gauge can help you figure out when your Begonia Maculata needs to be watered.
  • When watering your plant, aim the stream at the soil. Take care to not get the stem or the leaves wet.
  • Make sure no water is left in the soil after you are done watering. This can lead to root rot, a major problem with plants like Begonia Maculata.

How To Grow Your Begonia Maculata?

Begonia Maculata may be propagated in one of three ways: leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and cultivating the plant from seeds. Out of these, the first two are the easier methods of multiplying your Begonia Maculata.

For the leaf cutting method, cut a few fresh leaves from the plant along with at least an inch of petiole. Slice up the leaf in strips, making sure each strip has a well developed vein. Now place the leaves in a previously prepared pot with moist, well draining soil and cover it with a plastic bag to maintain humidity. You can expect the roots to start sprouting in around 3 to 4 wells, and by the 6th week, your new Begonia plants should be ready to be transplanted.

If you wish to opt for the stem cutting method, cut an inch long piece of stem from a mature Begonia Maculata and stick one end into a previously prepared pot with moist, well draining soil. Care for it the same way as detailed above for stem cutting, and you will notice new roots sprouting in about 5 to 7 weeks.

The most challenging propagation method for Begonia Maculata is through its seeds. For this reason, it is best left to professionals.

Common Problems And How To Treat Them


Begonia Maculata is susceptible to a variety of pest infestations. From caterpillars and earwigs to the very common snails – a myriad of pests may inhabit the striking leaves of this plant. These pests then feed on the foliage, leaving behind unsightly holes in them.

To get rid of pests, the best course of action is to pick them off of the plant, followed by a good pesticide spray to keep them away for good.


Common diseases of the Begonia plant include bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, and blight. The result of these plant conditions are damaged leaves, which ultimately lead to the death of the entire plant. However, there is a simple solution to prevention of all these types of diseases.

Most of these conditions originate in the background of overwatering. It is when water accumulates in a poorly draining soil that the plant develops these conditions. Simply being careful with the watering schedule and investing in a moisture gauge is enough to keep these problems at bay.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Begonia Maculata rare?

While Begonia Maculata used to be a rare species, the increased demand has led to many people trying to cultivate the plant in order to sell it. Due to this increased attempt at propagating this plant, it is no longer considered as rare and can be easily sourced from a good nursery or Etsy.

Do Begonia Maculata go dormant?

During the colder months, the growth rate of Begonia Maculata drops and they propagate less readily. However, at no point does this plant go completely dormant.

Do Begonia Maculata need structural support?

As the Begonia Maculata plant achieves a certain height, it starts to lean due to the weight of the leaves and stem. To keep your plant upright, a bamboo stick or a moss pole can be stuck in the center to provide structural support.

Wrapping It Up

So, there you go! The perfect guide to taking care of your Begonia Maculata.

Truth be told, the Begonia Maculata is not easy to grow. There are plenty of factors that need to be taken into consideration to ensure its survival. But as long as you follow these directions, you can be guaranteed a luscious, stunning Polka Dot Begonia.

Monstera Siltepecana isn’t the most common houseplant. That’s because it’s a flowering plant native to the South of Mexico and most of Central America. Outside of the area, it’s only found if someone has imported and brought it over to their home.

This type of plant has to be planted in its own way, kept in the right conditions, and grown with care to ensure that the plant grows well. While this isn’t too much work, it’s always best to know the plant you’re going to be working with before you get it. That’s why in this guide, we’re going to be outlining everything you need to know about caring for your Monstera Siltepecana from the day you get it, so you can make sure that it grows right.

How To Care For Your Monstera Siltepecana

Even though the Monstera Siltepecana doesn’t require an extreme amount of handling, there are still things you need to do to make sure that it grows and thrives. When you take care of the plant, it’ll be able to grow fast and healthy at the same time.



The best time to plant the Monstera Siltepecana is during the spring (or growing season). When you buy the plant, it’ll most likely come in a small pot already, with lots of roots sticking out of the drainage holes. You should gently wiggle the plant out and unravel the roots just a little bit to loosen them up and then plant them in the new soil. Ensure that the soil is draining, and if you’re using pre-fertilized soil, make sure to leave it be for a few months, so you’re not overpowering the plant with fertilizer.



Light has to be one of the most important aspects of growing plants. Some plants need lots of sunlight, and others will fry if they get too much. Monstera Siltepecana lies somewhere in the middle. This plant doesn’t like direct sunlight but can tolerate an hour or two of it a day. Generally, having it by a window that’s covered with a curtain or just placing it in the room away from the window altogether would be best.



Monstera Siltepecana is a tropical plant. That means that it won’t need too much water because its roots can end up soaking too much and end up rotting because of it. Water this plant moderately. This means that you don’t really need to water it every day. Just do the one-inch test by sticking your finger, or a stick, into the soil when it looks dry enough, and make sure that the top layer, around one to two inches, is dry. Overwatering the plant could ruin it very fast.



Since this is a tropical plant, it fares well in moderate to high humidity levels. So if you’re in a drier area, and notice that your Monstera Siltepecana isn’t looking too great, put a humidifier near it, and it should get back to normal soon enough.



With plants, it’s always the best idea to make their environment as similar to their natural environment as possible. As far as the temperature goes, the plant wouldn’t really do well in super cold areas. To make sure it grows right, keep it in a warm area. Room temperature works too.



Since the Monstera Siltepecana doesn’t start off too big, it doesn’t really need a lot of fertilizer. If you’ve planted the roots into simple soil, you can use a diluted version of general fertilizer for this one as well. Just make sure you’re only using it once or twice a year maximum to keep it from being over-fertilized.



One great thing about the Monstera Siltepecana plant is that it’s very easy to propagate it. Once the plant starts to grow and rise, you’ll notice that a lot of the smaller leaves have little roots sprouting out of them. That’s also how the plant holds on to a stem. All you have to do is cut it right there and place the root in water for a few days. Once that root starts to grow and spread, you can remove it from the water and plant it in new soil. Just remember to wait long enough to let the roots grow long enough to be planted so it can actually grow right away once it’s in the soil.



Even though you’d want to save every little leaf that grows out of the plant, it’s important that you’re also pruning the plant as it grows to make sure none of the resources are being wasted on dead leaves. The first thing you need to do is find the node on the leaf. That’s where the leaf is growing out of. First, see if you can twist it very gently. If it’s dead enough, it would just fall right off, but if it doesn’t, you can cut it. Place your plant scissors directly above the node, and snip in one clean snip. You’ll easily cut the leaf off of there, and the new one will be able to grow in from the same node without a problem.

You can also prune the plant if it’s grown in the wrong direction or is overgrowing. The same technique would apply either way.



Since Monstera Siltepecana is a vining plant, it’s going to eventually grow long enough that it starts climbing out of the pot and grabbing the surfaces around it as it goes. In the wild, they just grab onto the other plants around them, and they all come together to support one another. In homes, they’ll start grabbing objects that are in their way, which also leads them to start growing in all sorts of different directions. Instead of letting the plant figure it out, use posts, poles, and threads to guide it in the right direction.

Monstera Siltepecana Growing Tips And Guide

Want to avoid some common problems with your Monstera Siltepecana? Here are some growing tips that can help you maintain your plant’s health.

  • Make sure you’re planting it when the roots are ready
  • Get draining soil
  • Don’t over-fertilize or overwater the plant
  • Keep it away from direct sunlight
  • Ensure that the plant is around the right humidity levels
  • Keep it in a warm room
  • Dilute the fertilizer to half strength before using it
  • Prune as required
  • Guide it to climb right

Monstera Siltepecana Common Problems And How to Treat them

Although it’s fairly easy to grow a Monstera Siltepecana right, there are some problems you might face. Whenever the Monstera Siltepecana plant is having trouble, it’ll communicate those problems using physical signs. For every plant owner, it’s important to always stay on top of what your plant’s warning signs are, so you can step in and help immediately.

Below are four of the most common problems that your Monstera Siltepecana might go through and how you can treat them.


Leaves Browning

Since the Monstera Siltepecana can be a little sensitive to its surroundings, there are times when the leaves just don’t grow right. If you’re noticing that your perfectly healthy leaves one day turned brown or even had white spots all over them, then you’re doing something wrong. This is a clear sign that your plant is dehydrated. That doesn’t necessarily mean that you didn’t water it enough, although you might want to do the poke test to see if that could be the case. If it’s not, check where it’s placed. If the area gets too much direct sunlight every day, the plant might end up getting dehydrated because of it. Not only that, but if the place is too cold and doesn’t have the appropriate humidity levels, the plant feels extra dry. So check all three to figure out which one of them could be bothering the leaves, and then make the appropriate changes to the plant’s environment to fix that immediately.


Leaves Not Growing

Even though the Monstera Siltepecana is a vining plant and tends to grow quite fast, it’s still not an overnight change. The growth may still take weeks to become substantial. So if you’re noticing that the small, juvenile leaves on your plant just aren’t growing, there could be two things at play.

The first one is that it is growing but not fast enough for your eye to be able to notice it. If you’re going to check up on the plant over and over again in a span of days, you might just feel like the leaves aren’t growing, even if they are. A great way to not let that happen is by taking before and after photos and setting bi-weekly reminders to go check up on the growth. That way, you’ll know for sure if the plant actually isn’t growing out the way you’d want it to.

However, if even after that you’ve come to the conclusion that the leaves have stopped growing, see if the plant is placed in the right spot. If the plant is in the constant shade and hasn’t really been exposed to any sunlight for a while, it’ll stop growing. Make sure your plant is close enough to the window to get ample indirect sunlight and grow as much as it possibly can.


Dry Leaves

Touch the Monstera Siltepecana and see if the leaves feel soft yet sturdy because that’s what they’re supposed to feel like. If they don’t and you see them curling up from all sides, the plant may be dehydrated. Here you would first try to give it some more water and wait a couple of days before doing anything. If the leaves heal up and start to grow again, you’ll stop here, but if they don’t, there are two more things you can do.

The first one would be to use a humidifier and give the plant the added moisture it needs. If that doesn’t work, the dry leaves might be a goner, and you will have to cut them off and do a complete purge of your plant.


Yellow Leaves

If the leaves of the Monstera Siltepecana plant start turning yellow, there’s something wrong with the water again. This only happens when the plant is getting far too much water, so you need to cut back on that immediately and let the plant dry out, and then water it appropriately.


Frequently Asked Questions

Does Monstera Siltepecana Grow Fast?

Yes, the Does Monstera Siltepecana grows very fast, and if it’s potted in a small pot, you’ll have to change the pot to a bigger one frequently for it to be right. If you do know how to care for plants, you’ll have a much easier time figuring things out.


Is Monstera Siltepecana Toxic to Pets?

Yes. Monstera Siltepecana is extremely toxic for pets. So if your pet likes to chew on everything, you might want to keep her away from the crime scene.


Where Can I Get Monstera Siltepecana?

While you could find one of these plants at a local garden center, it’s highly likely that you won’t. Instead of going local like that, go online and see if they have any power missions around to get one for yourself too.


When Will the Siltepecana Develop The Holes?

One of the most unique physical features of this plant is the holes. These holes really add to the overall look. However, if your Monstera Siltepecana isn’t getting the holes, it’s just not strong enough to do so. Give it some time to heal and fix the mess here because the healthier it’ll be. As long as you’re following all of the major tips named above, you’ll have a great time growing a grand plant.

Wrapping It Up

The Monstera Siltepecana is a plant that anyone can grow if they know what they’re doing. The good thing is that this plant isn’t very fussy and granted you’re doing a good job taking care of its water, sunlight, and humidity needs, the plant will be just fine! Just follow all the tips we’ve outlined in the post, and your tiny plant will be on growing big in no time!


Hoya Krimson Queen is a succulent with strikingly variegated leaves. Growing this royal plant for the first time? Here is a detailed guide with everything you need to know about caring for your Hoya Krimson Queen.

Caring For Your Hoya Krimson Queen

Hoya Carnosa Krimson Queen, 4

Hoya Krimson Queen is a well-known plant in the gardening community. The pink leaves with white to cream margins give it the names of Hoya Tricolor and Hoya Variegata. Variegated Hoya Carnosa, Variegated Wax Plant, and African Violet Plant are some more common names this plant is referred to as. Like all the other Hoya species, Hoya Krimson Queen also has thick, waxy leaves that look stunning in any indoor setting.

The Hoya plant was first discovered in Australia and some parts of Southeast Asia. Though there used to be hundreds of impressive varieties of this plant, deforestation has pretty much wiped out most of the Hoya types. This is why it is important to conserve what we are left with and take proper care of these endangered species.

While the Hoya Krimson Queen does not require tons of effort on its upkeep, it can be pretty particular about what it likes. This guide will talk about everything you need to know to keep your Red Queen happy and healthy.

How To Care For Your Hoya Krimson Queen

Hardiness Zones

In the wild, Hoya Krimson Queen grows best in hardiness zones 10 through 12. This makes it the perfect plant to keep in the house, as it handles the regular room temperature pretty well. If you live in a temperate to a tropical area, you might even succeed in growing it in your outdoor garden.


When it comes to soil, choose something that drains well and does not hold excess water for long. A potting mix with equal parts of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite will serve your Hoya Krimson Queen very well. You can also add coconut husk or orchid bark to make your soil airy and porous. This allows the roots to breathe easily and prevents suffocation.


All Hoya varieties need plenty of sunlight to flourish. But it is even more important for variegated plants like the Hoya Krimson Queen. Because it is only the central green part of the leaves that contributes to photosynthesis, it must get enough sunlight to fulfill its nutrition needs.


An east-facing window is the best place to put your Hoya Krimson Queen. This position gets abundant bright, indirect sunlight that it requires. However, if you live in a country where days are short and the sun is rarely out, consider investing in a plant grow light to make up for the unavailable sunlight.


Hoya Krimson Queen is a sturdy succulent that you won’t have to water very often. A couple of times per week is enough to fulfill the Queen’s needs during the summer months and even less is required in the fall and winter.

You will know your plant is thirsty when the soil is dry to touch and doesn’t cling to your fingers. When you water your Hoya Krimson Queen, pour enough until you see excess water escaping the drainage holes. Thorough watering is essential to keep your succulents healthy.


The optimal humidity levels for Hoya Krimson Queen lie between 70 to 80 percent. But, of course, these levels do not exist indoors naturally.

However, high humidity levels can easily be maintained in a number of ways. For example, you can put your plant in the bathroom or kitchen, as these areas are generally more humid than the rest of the house. You can also line your drainage tray with pebbles so that the water evaporates when it touches them and increases the surrounding humidity. Another way to resolve the problem is by using a humidifier.

Some people will also mist their Hoya or put their plants close together to increase the humidity. However, these practices carry the risk of your plant developing fungus and transmitting infections and should be avoided when possible.


The hardy Hoya Krimson Queen can tolerate a wide range of temperatures between 60 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. However, anything below 59 degrees Fahrenheit and your plant will begin to stress. If you live in a colder region, you will have to grow your Hoya Krimson Queen in a temperature-maintained terrarium.

In addition to being cold-sensitive, Hoya Krimson Queen also dislikes any big variations in the surrounding temperature. It does not readily adapt to change and will show signs of distress if the temperature is not consistent.


The wild Hoya Krimson Queen grows to a massive height of 20 feet, but when indoors, only a fraction of this impressive height can be reached. The average Hoya Krimson Queen will be 1.5 to 2 feet tall as a houseplant. But if the conditions are right and all its needs are met, even an indoor Hoya Krimson Queen may surprise you with its rapid growth.

The heart-shaped leaves are a petite 1.6 to 2 inches in length. They are thick, fleshy, and have a smooth, waxy texture.

Most of the growth happens over the summer and spring seasons. When compared to other varieties of the same genus, Hoya Krimson Queen is said to be a fast-growing vine, and you can see quick results of the effort you put into rearing this plant.


The magic minerals for Hoya Krimson Queen are phosphorus and potassium. When these are present in adequate amounts, you can expect your Queen to flourish like no other.

You have the choice between store-bought NPK fertilizer and organic compost for plant food. While the chemical ones you buy at the store are easier to manage, the risk of fertilizer burn is considerably higher with them. Diluting liquid chemical fertilizer and using it sparingly is one way to manage this risk. Organic compost that you prepare at home carries no such threat.

The optimal time to feed your Hoya Krimson Queen is during the active growth phase. This coincides with the summer and spring seasons, when you should be complementing the soil with fertilizer once a month. It is best to hold off on the treatment during the winter season.


All plants need to be repotted when the roots have started to crowd, and there is no more space left for them to spread. Being a faster-growing vine, Hoya Krimson Queen needs it much more frequently than the other varieties of the same family. Ideally, you should be replacing your Hoya Krimson Queen in a new pot every couple of growing seasons.

When repotting your Hoya Krimson Queen, always ensure that the container has a proper drainage system in place. If the pot doesn’t drain right, the Hoya is subject to root rot and dies. Another vital consideration when repotting is the size of the new pot – it should only be slightly bigger than the old one. If the new pot is too big, it is harder for Hoya Krimson Queen to adjust to the new environment. The ideal time to change pots is during the active growing period, but not when the plant is blooming.

The procedure to repot is as follows:

  • Loosen up the soil around the edges and gently probe the Hoya Krimson Queen out of its pot along with the surrounding soil. Make sure that the roots stay intact.
  • Place the plant in a slightly bigger pot filled three quarters with the appropriate potting mix.
  • Cover the roots with more soil until the plant is stable.
  • Wait for a day before watering the plant.


Hoya Krimson Queen is not a pet-friendly succulent. While it may not kill cats and dogs, ingesting the toxic sap will certainly make them very sick. Hence, it is best to put small children or mischievous pets out of reach.

How to Propagate the Hoya Krimson Queen

Want a Hoya Krimson Queen in every corner of your house? You can easily propagate this plant through stem cuttings. It is best to do this during the summer and spring when it is easier for the Hoya Krimson Queen to take.

To cultivate a new Hoya Krimson Queen from an existing one, follow the guide given below:

  • Identify a healthy stem with a couple of nodes and a few leaves. Make sure that the stem is not in bloom.
  • With sterilized pruning shears, make a diagonal cut under a node on that stem.
  • Dip the cut in rooting hormone.
  • Now, you can either proliferate your Hoya Krimson Queen cutting in distilled water, soil, or sphagnum moss. Make sure to keep the soil or sphagnum moss moist until the roots have sprouted.
  • Bury your plant in the propagating medium of your choice until the level of the cut node.
  • Maintain a high humidity level by covering the cut stem with a plastic bag and placing it under bright, indirect sunlight.
  • Within a few weeks, you will begin to notice new roots sprouting from the cut end of the stem. When this happens, you can replant your Hoya Krimson Queen in its permanent pot.


Frequent pruning is not a requirement with Hoya Krimson Queen, but doing so every now and then does encourage their growth. Taking off the dead and dying leaves lessens the plant’s burden so it can grow new ones. It makes the plants bushier and also increases the number of flowers on them.

Growing Tips And Guide

Want to avoid some common problems with your Hoya Krimson Queen? Here are some growing tips that can help you maintain your plant’s health.

  • Choose your container carefully. A terracotta pot with proper drainage holes is ideal for growing Hoya Krimson Queen and prevents root rot.
  • Ensure that the potting mix is adequately airy and well-draining.
  • Abstain from watering your Hoya Krimson Queen too frequently. Overwatering can damage your plant even with a good drainage system in place.
  • Keep your plant away from direct sunlight – you do not want the leaves to burn.
  • Try to keep a consistent surrounding temperature. The Hoya Krimson Queen does not adapt readily to temperature changes.
  • Change the pot every two years to ensure that your soil is fresh and your plant is not root-bound.
  • Refresh the potting mix every time you repot your plant.

Common Problems And How to Treat them

The problems encountered when growing Hoya Krimson Queen can be categorized under two causes:


Hoya Krimson Queen requires very little water, and overwatering this succulent is very common – especially with novices. However, if you water your plant too frequently or don’t have a proper drainage system in place, your Hoya Krimson Queen may be subject to root rot.

You will know you are overwatering your plant if the leaves start to turn yellow and curl onto themselves. Try with different watering schedules until you find one that works with the weather in your area and makes your Hoya Krimson Queen happy.


It is not uncommon to find Hoya Krimson Queen infested with mealybugs, spider mites, or scale. These pests feed on the sap of Hoya Krimson Queen, leaving little nutrition behind for its growth. They also leave the plant vulnerable to bacterial infections and over diseases and may also play a role in their transmission.

Mealybugs can be seen as cotton balls on the leaves. Spider mites can be recognized by the characteristic webs they leave behind. And lastly, scales appear as semi-permanent spots on the stem and leaves.

Insecticides and pesticides are excellent ways to get rid of these pests. However, you can also use organic neem oil if you want a chemical-free solution to the problem. In addition to this, spider mites can be combated with a humidifier, and scales will need to be individually picked off of your Hoya Krimson Queen.

Frequently Asked Questions

How can you tell apart Hoya Krimson Queen from Hoya Krimson Princess?

The main difference between the two species of royal Hoya is the site of variegation. The leaves of Krimson Queen are green in the center with white margins, whereas the Princess has a white center with green margins.

Why is my Hoya Krimson Queen losing its variegation?

The most common reason for this problem is too little sunlight. Try moving your Hoya Krimson Queen to an east-facing window to resolve the issue.

Why are the leaves turning brown?

Too much sunlight or overwatering can cause the Hoya Krimson Queen leaves to start browning. Work around with the placement and watering schedule of your Hoya Krimson Queen if you are facing this problem.

Wrapping It Up

As the name tells you, the Hoya Krimson Queen is the royalty of the Hoya family. Hence, it is only appropriate to give it the royal treatment it deserves. Use the tips in this guide to ensure the health of your Hoya Krimson Queen.

Desired for its rarity, Hoya Macrophylla is a beautiful plant that can easily be identified by its thick green leaves with pale yellow margins. If you have one in your indoor garden, this guide will help you properly rear Hoya Macrophylla.

Hoya Macrophylla, Very Rare Limited Live Plant, Super Filled in 4 inch Pot

Caring For Your Hoya Macrophylla

The Hoya Macrophylla plant is a favorite among indoor gardening enthusiasts around the world. Often affectionately called the Wax Plant for its thick green leaves, Hoya Macrophylla is quite sturdy and easy to care for.

This succulent vine was first discovered in the Austral Asia region, where it had as many as 500 different varieties! Unfortunately, due to bad environmental practices and deforestation, many of these Hoya species have already gone extinct, and many others are labeled as endangered.

For this reason, Hoya plants are hard to come by and fetch quite a lot of money in the gardener’s market. And so, if you are lucky enough to get your hands on one of these, you must make sure you are caring for it the right way! Here is everything you need to know to keep your Hoya Macrophylla healthy, happy, and flourishing.

How To Care For Your Plant

Hardiness Zones

Hoya Macrophylla plants are of the hardiness zones 10 and 11. They love temperate to slightly warm environments, and cannot grow too well in the cold. If you are trying to rear this succulent in a colder region, you must pay special attention to maintaining the surrounding temperature.


Unlike most other indoor plants you may have around the house, Hoya Macrophylla likes sweet, alkaline soil. This means that the plant will flourish in limestone and eggshells,  and absolutely hate it if you use peat moss in the potting mix.

A basic potting mix for Hoya Macrophylla should contain organic cactus mix, perlite, and organic orchid mix in equal amounts. This composition is well-draining and super aerated – two things your Hoya Macrophylla will greatly appreciate.


While Hoya Macrophylla enjoys plenty of sunlight, make sure that it is not directly overhead. Too much sun exposure can leave your plant burnt, while not enough can make it look leggy. The best place to put your pot of Hoya Macrophylla is therefore in front of an east-facing window.


As you would expect from a succulent, you do not have to water Hoya Macrophylla very frequently. However, when you do give it water, you must ensure there is plenty of it.

You will know that it is time to water your plant when the top layer of the soil feels dry to touch. In most areas, this will mean watering once weekly, but it can vary from place to place due to the change in weather and humidity. When watering, keep on pouring until you see excess water flowing out the drainage holes. This will ensure that the moisture penetrates each layer of the soil.

As we have already mentioned, Hoya Macrophylla does not like acidic conditions. If your tap water has a low pH, avoid using it to water your plant. Instead, use aquarium or rainwater for extra nutrients, and if that’s not possible, distilled water is the way to go.


In terms of withstanding a wide range of humidity levels, Hoya Macrophylla is a pretty hardy plant. In its natural habitat, the Macrophylla plant enjoys high humidity levels of 90 percent or more. Even so, the plant maintains its foliage and blooms at humidity levels as low as 40 percent.

To replicate the natural environment of Hoya Macrophylla, you can use techniques such as misting the plant every now and then or using a humidifier. However, we would not recommend crowding your Hoya Macrophylla pots to indirectly raise the humidity levels – these plants are especially vulnerable to fungi and molds, and placing them close together facilitates the spread of disease from one plant to the other.


The Austral Asia region enjoys a lot of sun, and it is quite hot all around the year. If you are growing your Hoya Macrophylla in an area that enjoys similar weather, you have nothing to be worried about. But if you live in colder regions, maintaining the temperature becomes a necessity. The ideal temperature to grow Hoya Macrophylla is around 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the winter hits, you might have to move your Hoya Macrophylla to a terrarium. However, even then, the plant might go into dormancy if a temperature above 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit is not maintained. So if you see your Hoya Macrophylla stop growing and blooming during the winter months, do not fret! As soon as Spring comes around, your Hoya Macrophylla will be back in its full bloom!


Hoya Macrophylla is quite slow to grow, even during its active growth period. But if you are patient with your plant and consistent with your care and attention, the reward is absolutely mesmerizing.

In its natural habitat, Hoya Macrophylla can reach an impressive 66 feet in height by the time it is 10 years old. When grown indoors, however, the average plant is only about 4 to 6 feet tall. The maximum height of your Hoya Macrophylla will depend most on how well you are caring for it.

Because Hoya Macrophylla is an epiphyte, its tendrils go out in search of supporting structures to hold on to as the plant grows. In the wild, this support is provided by the vegetation growing nearby. In your home, you will have to introduce a moss pole in the Hoya Macrophylla pot to provide the support that it needs to grow taller.


If your plant looks a bit sad, you can lift up its spirits by feeding it some good organic fertilizer. We recommend that you do it at least once a month during the growing phase, and then take a break for the winter months when the Hoya Macrophylla goes into a dormant stage.

An easily available fertilizer that your plant will be grateful for is fish emulsion. Though a bit smelly, it has all the essential nutrients that Hoya Macrophylla needs to grow to its full potential. Take care to not put your plant in direct sunlight immediately after feeding it fertilizer, as this leaves Hoya Macrophylla vulnerable to burns.


Unlike many other houseplants, Hoya Macrophylla does not really become root-bound. This allows you a significant period before you are required to change the pot you are growing your Hoya Macrophylla in. You can go quite a few before without replacing the pot of your Hoya Macrophylla.

However, things change if your potting mix contains orchid bark. Remember how we said Hoya Macrophylla absolutely loathes acidic soil? Well, the orchid mix gets pretty acidic with time. So you will need to repot your Hoya Macrophylla more often in this case – we recommend doing it at least once every two years.


Have small children or pets running all over your house? Don’t worry. Hoya Macrophylla is completely safe and non-toxic. This is one exotic plant you can put around the house without constantly fearing a trip to the hospital or vet.


We have already discussed that Hoya Macrophylla is pretty rare and super hard to come by. Hence, wanting to preserve your plant’s legacy is quite natural. Luckily, doing so can be surprisingly simple and easy.

The best way to propagate your Hoya Macrophylla is via cut tendrils. The growing Hoya Macrophylla shoots out tendrils from the central stem to seek support from adjacent structures as it gets taller. To multiply your Hoya Macrophylla, make a diagonal cut through a well-formed tendril that has a couple of nodes and a few healthy leaves – take care that you are not slicing off a budding tendril.

Wrap the cut end in some damp sphagnum moss or place it directly in water. Cover the cutting with a plastic wrap to promote humidity, warmth, and moisture – these factors will help your cutting to root. In a few weeks, you will start seeing new roots sprouting from the cut end. At this point, you can plant your cutting in an already prepared pot and wait for the cutting to stabilize.


Usually, Hoya Macrophylla does not need a lot of pruning. The only times you will need to touch those shears is if you think your plant is getting too big for your space, or if you see a few dead or diseased leaves.

Growing Tips and Guide

While the above directions are enough to ensure the survival of your Hoya Macrophylla, some additional care can make it thrive. Here are a few tips to remember when growing Hoya Macrophylla, which can help prevent a lot of problems.

  • When choosing a pot for Hoya Macrophylla, go for terracotta. These purpose pots have superior drainage and can reduce the effects of overwatering your plant, such as root rot.
  • When propagating Hoya Macrophylla, do not take your cutting out of water and plant into the soil right away. Instead, gradually add soil to the water until all of the water is replaced by the potting mix. This facilitates the cutting to adapt to its new atmosphere readily.
  • If you notice dirt or dust sitting on the leaves of your Hoya Macrophylla, gently wipe it off with a damp cloth. A clean plant does not only look great, but it is also easier for it to breathe.

Common Problems and How to Treat Them


Though Hoya Macrophylla is quite a hardy plant, it too is not immune to pests like mealybugs and aphids.

A mealybug infestation usually presents as yellowing, curling leaves. You may notice them huddled together on the leaf as a tuft of cotton. Similarly, aphids can be found on the underside of the leaves and feed on the sap of the plant, stealing its nutrition. A simple solution to the pest problem is a store-bought pesticide or insecticide. For a DIY organic option, you can also apply neem oil to the leaves.

Mold and fungus

When there are mealybugs on your Hoya Macrophylla, there is bound to be some mold and fungus on there too. Mold can also occur in high humidity with little or no ventilation. These infections can cause great damage to your plant and can make your Hoya Macrophylla look debilitated.

To prevent these, you must keep mealybugs away with the use of insecticides. In addition, you can place an oscillating fan nearby to promote air circulation and make the environment less favorable for the growth of mold.


Why are the leaves of my Hoya Macrophylla yellowing?

Yellow Hoya Macrophylla leaves most commonly mean that you are overwatering your plant. They may also be due to a mealybug infestation.

Does Hoya Macrophylla produce flowers?

Yes, Hoya Macrophylla produces small, round clusters of star-shaped, creamy white flowers with a hint of pink in them. However, their smell is quite a controversial topic. While some say the flowers smell of a combination of sweaty socks and chocolate, others compare the fragrance to the scent of hyacinths.

However, even without blooms, Hoya Macrophylla is quite beautiful and a great option as a decorative indoor plant.

Wrapping it up

Though sourcing a Hoya Macrophylla can be hard, taking care of it is pretty easy. This succulent plant can survive in your home even if you don’t have a green thumb. As long as you are consistent with providing the few basic needs that it has, your Hoya Macrophylla will be forever blooming.

Philodendron brandtianum is also known as philodendron silver leaf, and aka philodendron brandi. It is native to tropical areas and can be grown as both climbing and hanging plants. It produces olive green, and heart-shaped leaves which are distinguished by the presence of silver and white stripes, and patches. These plants are significantly important for air purification due to their excellent pollutant removal properties. These plants are greatly easy to grow and hard to kill. Thus, it is an ideal plant to grow at homes with minimal care and management. This plant is known to be native to Colombia, Ecuador, Brazil, Bolivia, and Peru. This plant is unique in the fact that it can be grown as an epiphyte, hemi-epiphyte, and terrestrial plant.

While the height and size of the plant are greatly dependent on prevailing climatic conditions and the right application of inputs. Generally, the indoor growing plant can attain a maximum height of about five to six feet. While outdoor growing plants can reach a significant length. The leaf length is variable between four to seven inches and can grow to a maximum length of 12 inches. This plant undergoes various morphogenetic stages, and its physical appearance is changed many times during the growing phase. This plant is silver leaf philodendron and is different from the silver satin Pothos. Usually, people are considering these plants like the same ones but there are significantly major differences among these two plants.


Philodendron brandtianum grows well in the USDA zone of 9b-11. It is a hardy plant and can easily tolerate some fluctuation in the growing conditions and mismanagement. However, in areas other than this zone, growers must maintain the optimal conditions to assure the best growth because they cannot tolerate too many unfavorable conditions.

Soil and pH Requirements

Use the fertile growing mix and soil with a good drainage capacity to get the best growth results. These plants need more water than the other houseplants, but the drainage of excess water is essentially important. The use of fertile soil causes a significant increase in growth. The addition of compost, organic materials, compost tea, eggshells, and well-managed kitchen waste is also helpful to improve growth on a sustainable basis. Better growth can be observed by maintaining the soil pH between 6.1-7.3. Soils in the different regions have variable physical, chemical, and biological properties.

Soil fertility, pH, and nutrient absorption can be enhanced by adding specific amendments to the soil. Soil testing before adding any inputs is an ideal way to get an idea about its constituents and what more is required. Growers can contact local agricultural extension services, services of private companies, and soil and water testing laboratories. Usually, agricultural researchers and laboratory scientists also provide details about the use of specific amendments and organic substances. The addition of compost, organic matter, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite is helpful to improve its drainage, water holding capacity, and nutrient provision capacity.


This plant needs indirect and bright light like the other philodendron plants. Direct placement of the plant in the intense and scorching light can cause foliage burning. Growers can also place shade cloths on the plants to provide filtered light. Ideally, this plant can be placed in outdoor conditions and on the porch. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can cause fading and yellowing of the beautiful olive-colored leaves.


This plant is native to tropical areas and requires good watering for better growth and development. It requires watering at least three times a week during the summer seasons, but watering frequency and intensity should be reduced in the winter and spring. The watering requirements of plants are greatly variable according to prevailing climatic conditions. water only when the top two to three inches of the soil is dried.

Checking the soil moisture status by inserting the fingers in it is the best way to get an idea about its watering requirements. Avoid leaf wetting during watering as it may cause disease development, insect pest attacks, and foliage problems. Many growers have reported that overwatering causes leaf dropping during the winter months. However, this plant enjoys humid and damp conditions in the summer season. So, there should be a regular adjustment of the watering schedule according to seasonal variation.


The ideal growing temperature for the philodendron brandtianum ranges between 18-35 degrees Celsius. Growers can move the plant in the outdoor place during the summer conditions. Must place the plants indoors in the winters as frost can kill the plants. Avoid harsh temperatures around the plants and keep the plants away from vents, radiators, heaters, and air-conditioners. This plant can tolerate light frost and the growth is resumed at the start and mid of the spring season. The optimal daytime temperature for this plant is between 20-25 degrees Celsius and the average optimal nighttime temperature ranges between 12-18 degrees Celsius.


This plant needs about 60-70% humidity for better survival and growers must maintain the ideal humidity in its surroundings. The humidity levels for indoor plants can be improved by the water misting and placing the plant in the moisture-filled pebble trays. Regular misting is not a good approach as it may cause bacterial and fungal infections and disease attacks. So, growers should do misting occasionally to promote aeration and to protect the growing plants from root rotting and fungus.


The application of water-soluble and liquid fertilizers is significantly important to provide a steady supply of nutrients to the growing plants. Unfertilized plants have a slower growth rate and stunted appearance. Feeding the philodendron brandtianum plants with slow-release, water-soluble and general-purpose fertilizer is helpful to improve the growth and development. There is no need to fertilize the plants during the cold months. Feeding the growing plants at least once a month during the summer and spring seasons is greatly recommended.

The use of synthetic fertilizers can cause the buildup of salts in the soil and exerts negative effects on the soil biodiversity. Thus, the natural capacity of the soil to release nutrients for plant uptake is reduced. Whereas the use of organic fertilizers greatly improves all physical, chemical, and biological soil properties. These fertilizers also support the beneficial microbial communities and suppress pathogenic populations.


This plant develops leaves in a close association with both climbing and trailing habits. Therefore, it requires good pruning one to two times a year. The denser leaves and foliage hinder the proper air circulation and the retention of water drops can cause adverse effects on its health and development. Removal of dead and damaged leaves is also critically important to improving to improve beauty and looks of the plant.

Philodendron Brandtianum Growing Tips and Guide

  • Follow all instructions to grow this plant both in indoor and outdoor conditions.
  • Purchase the plant, or cuttings from reliable and recommended sources only.
  • Use good quality soil, and potting mix to grow the plant. Always perform testing analysis to check the feasibility of soil to be used for growing.
  • The use of contaminated resources can negatively affect its growth and also causes concerns for the pets, children, and environment.
  • Always grow the plant in the recommended environmental conditions or grow zones. Manage the indoor temperature exactly according to the needs of growing plants.
  • Use devise for monitoring the temperature, pH, humidity, and aeration in the surroundings.
  • Never place the plants near the air conditioners, heaters, and vents.
  • Regularly check the health of plants and the presence of insect pests, and diseases.
  • Always prioritize the use of organic management measures than the use of synthetic chemicals.
  • Keep the plant away from the reach of children, and pets.
  • Adjust the watering, and fertilization schedule according to the exact needs of plants.
  • Replace the water from the container after every few days if it is grown in the water.
  • Use contaminant-free water for watering the plants and always test the water quality in terms of physical, chemical, and biological aspects.
  • Prune the growing plants according to their needs.
  • Immediately remove the diseased, infected, and dead plant parts.

Philodendron Brandtianum Propagation Methods: Step by Step Guide

  • This plant is well known for its ease of propagation.
  • Take the cuttings from healthy growing stems and plants during the growing season.
  • The obtained cuttings can be placed both in the water and soil for further growth and development.
  • Growers can also grow this plant permanently in the water.
  • Fill a clear container or jar with the contaminant-free and good quality water. The use of tap water is not a good approach as it may contain impurities. However, if tap water of a certain area is good enough, it can be used for growing the plants.
  • Leave space of about one inch near the mouth of the jar or container.
  • Allow the water to settle overnight as it favors the chlorine evaporation and chances of damage to the newly obtained cuttings can be reduced.
  • Take 5-8 inches long cutting from disease-free, and vigorously growing plants.
  • Cut the stems immediately below the nodes with the help of sharp gardening clippers, knives, scissors, or shears.
  • Remove all the leaves on the stems and only allow two nodes to stay on the stem.
  • Place the leafless cutting having nodes in the water.
  • Keep the container in the bright but indirect light to support maximum growth and development.
  • Replace the water regularly after the three days to avoid the buildup of toxic materials and pathogenic populations.
  • Root growth will be evident within 10-21 days of placing cuttings in the water.
  • Growers can plant these cutting in the potting mix or soil or can also support the growth in water-filled containers.

Air Layering Philodendron Brandtianum

  • Select a healthy growing stem and carefully place a cut of 1-1.5 inches immediately below the nodes.
  • Prepare sphagnum moss or the contaminant-free organic and carefully wrap this around the cuttings.
  • Secure the moss in its place by using first-aid tape or plastic wrap.
  • The appearance of roots will be evident after 3-4 weeks of performing the above-mentioned practice.
  • The cutting is ready for planting in the water containers, and potting mix, or soil.

Philodendron Brandtianum Potting and Repotting. 

This plant is ideal for growing in terrestrial pots, terrariums, and hanging baskets. So growers can select any container according to their preferences and growing requirements. Repotting is required if this plant is cramped and crowded at its place or in the container. Small-sized pots and containers cannot support the larger growth of roots and stems and the growth is stopped at a specific point. The plant must be repotted at this point to assure better growth and development. Usually, this plant requires repotting in two to three years. It is important to note that the health and length of the plant can be greatly improved by keeping its roots loose. In this way, roots can get more oxygen, moisture, and nutrients and support the vigorous growth of philodendron brandtianum.

Philodendron Brandtianum Common Problems and How to Manage

Bringing newer plants in the homes may pose serious contamination threats and insect pest attacks. Purchasing the plants from reliable stores is helpful to get good results. Disinfecting the new plants with alcohol-dipped swabs and washing with soap-based solutions is a good choice to get rid of pests and disease spread. However, the growing plants are always prone to insects and diseases as any mismanagement and fluctuation make plants more susceptible.

  • Leaf Drooping

Leaf drooping in the philodendron brandtianum is caused due to various biotic and abiotic stresses. However, the common reason for drooping includes excessive watering, over-fertilization, downy mildew, and mealybugs. Growers can easily avoid the problem by maintaining the right growing conditions and keeping a good eye on plant health.

  • Brown Leaves

Philodendron brandtianum requires appropriate watering for healthier growth. Both overirrigation and under irrigation can cause a significant problem for its growth and development. This plant requires more moisture and humidity than the other plants, but mismanaged watering may cause the browning of leaves. Water the plant thoroughly until there is an emergence of water from the drainage holes. Wait for the drying of the soil before scheduling the next watering. Although this plant needs more water, it is not capable of surviving in overly wet and soggy soil.

  • Tip Curling

This problem is caused by overfertilization, and this problem can be greatly avoided by adjusting the fertilizer application according to the requirements of growing plants. Thoroughly watering the plant in the clean sink or under the shower is also a good approach to remove excessive fertilizer. Repotting is also a recommended practice to avoid the adverse effects of the excessively applied slow-released fertilizer.

  • Leaf Spots

This problem occurs when there is an appearance of reddish-brown colored larger spots with irregular shapes, and yellow centers. Growers can avoid this problem by the timely removal of damaged leaves and avoiding overwatering. Drain the excessive water in the tray and saucer because it is also a major reason for leaf spots and root rotting.

  • Root Rotting

Excessive soil moisture and overwatering the plant cause fungal and bacterial infections and root rotting. Growers can easily avoid the problem by adjusting the watering schedules and early detecting and treating the fungal and bacterial attacks and diseases. The plants growing in the excessively wet soil are deprived of oxygen and are not able to breathe appropriately. Thus, the functioning of roots for nutrient absorption, and metabolic activities is reduced, and the growth of plants is stunted. The use of well-drained soils improves the aeration, and drainage and helps to minimize the chances of root rotting.

  • The appearance of V-Shaped Yellow Areas

The appearance of V-shaped yellowish areas on the leaves is most common in cool greenhouses. This problem is associated with magnesium deficiency and can be easily avoided by the right management and control of the fertilization practices. Application of one teaspoon or calculated amount of magnesium sulfate per one gallon of good quality water is helpful to avoid V-shaped yellow leaf areas. Magnesium sulfate is easily available in fertilizer shops and gardening stores.

  • Cold Damage

Cold injuries on this plant cause appearance of dark green and brown blotches between the veins of the leaves. Growers can avoid cold injuries by the maintenance of the right growing environment according to its requirements. Management of the outdoor environment is a difficult task, but they can always protect the plants by moving the containers or pots indoors. Indoor temperature monitoring devices are easily available in the markets and their use helps to improve the sustainability of indoor growing.

  • Bacterial Blight

It is caused by the Erwinia caratovora PV. carotovora E. chrysanthemi causes the development of dark green and small spots on the leaves. These spots rapidly spread and expand to the petioles and cause collapsing of leaves in a wet rot that produces a foul smell. This problem can be easily avoided by minimizing the overhead watering. Immediate removal of infected leaves is greatly recommended to avoid further spread of the problem. Careful watering with detailed monitoring is also helpful to protect leaf surfaces and petioles from wetting.

  • Bacterial Leaf Spot

It causes the appearance of translucent spots on the margins of leaves that becomes reddish-brown having yellowish halos. The size of these spots is also increased with time and they become more irregular shaped, and tan. It is caused by the Xanthomonas campestris PV. Dieffenbachia and the problem can be avoided by avoiding the overhead watering. Removal of infected leaves and purchasing the plants from reliable sources help to minimize the chances of this disease.

  • Spider Mites

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Philodendron brandtianum is commonly infested by spider mites and their populations can be seen on leaf borders and axils. Their presence is evident after watering and plant disturbances. Wipe the leaves with soap-based formulations or alcohol-dipped cotton swabs.

  • Mealybugs

These insects survive well in the warmer areas and are commonly found on almost all houseplants. Their heavy infestation causes stunted growth and death of Philodendron brandtianum. These are soft-bodied and tiny insects and are surrounded by the white, fuzzy stuff on the leaf nodes and stems. These insects are very dangerous for the plants as they feed on the sap and thus photosynthetic capacity, and metabolic activities of plants are reduced.

  • Scales

Scales can be identified by the presence of lumps on their stems. Numerous bugs attacks these plants and the grower may confuse the presence of certain insects with different names. Light infestation of scales can be easily treated by using neem oil and water sprays. The application of horticultural oils helps control the pests but does not completely kill the pest populations. Introduction of ladybugs and other predators for biological control is also the best way to get rid of scales and other insect pests.

  • Aphids

Aphids feed on this plant by eating their leaves and can be identified by the presence of brown and black leaf areas. Their populations can be controlled by using dish detergents, Ivory liquids, neem oil, and insecticidal soaps. Detergents and soaps that do not contain additives and perfumes are more effective against aphids. Also, check the lower sides of the leaves because pests also infest these parts.


Is the Philodendron Brandtianum a toxic plant?

This plant contains certain toxic compounds and can cause swelling, vomiting, breathing difficulties, and skin irritation. Swallowing its leaves and foliage may also cause mouth burning and irritation. It contains higher levels of calcium oxalate crystals, so its toxic and allergic nature is attributed to the presence of this compound. Growers must avoid the contact of this plant with pets and children to avoid serious problems.

How to support the Philodendron Brandtianum?

This is a well-known houseplant and can be easily trained for climbing. It has aerial roots, and its climbing growth can be supported by using different kinds of the trellis. Provision of damp and rough support is more helpful than the latticework and stakes. Many experienced gardeners and researchers have reported that sphagnum moss poles are greatly helpful for supporting this plant. Growers can easily make moss stuffed poles at home by rolling up hardware cloth to make a cylinder. The use of copper mesh is the best choice because it has rust-proof properties. Tie this wire with the cylinder sides and stuff it with the good quality wet sphagnum moss. There is no need to fill the parts that will be below the soil.

Growers can also make the covered pole by using PVC pipe. Tape a specific piece of copper wire or finishing line with the one end of the pole and wrap some sphagnum moss pieces around this pipe. Tightly secure the moss in its place by securely winding the copper wire. Insert the good support in the central point. Plant Philodendron brandtianum around this pole and tie this pole to some veins by using gardening tape or twine. Frequently mist the sphagnum moss to keep it moist for efficient functioning.

Is this plant rare or abundantly available?

This is a rare plant and is not available at all gardening stores and shops. Many shops and gardening stores are not selling locally because of their adaptation and survival in specific climatic conditions.

What growers can do to revive the infected philodendron brandtianum?

As a general rule, the infected plants must be isolated from the other plants and the same gardening tools should never be used for healthy and infected plants. Cut the yellow and brown leaves with clean shears and scissors and wash these cutting tools soon after use. The plants from the extreme yellowing, dead stems, and leaf falling can be saved by using the dry plants’ resuscitation process. Place the infected plant in the basin or sink and fill it with water. Again, it is important to note that water quality is a major concern and only clean water should be used for this purpose.

Let the plant stay in water for a few hours so that it can absorb the maximum water. Drastic pot submersion is also helpful for this purpose. Cut the brown and yellowish leaves and supply liquid fertilizer to help a plant grow in a better way. Moistening of potting soil instead of wetting is also essentially helpful in this perspective. Carefully monitor the plants for the next few weeks and adjust the care and management practices according to their needs.

How to Grow Anthurium Warocqueanum?

Anthurium warocqueanum is also known as queen anthurium and is named in honor of Belgium-based plant enthusiast M. Warocqué. This is a perennial plant and has a climbing growing nature. It requires more care and management than the other plants in its category, so it is somewhat difficult to grow. Anthurium leaves are deceptively smaller but grow quickly to immense sizes. It can attain a maximum height of about six feet provided by proper care and support. While it grows only three feet in indoor conditions because plants in the indoor environment are dependent on the growers and some kind of growth reduction is evident when the plant is not growing in its native climatic conditions.

Anthurium produces velvety, light green to darker leaves and its leaves are provided with silvery veins that even become more evident with time. Initially, the veins are not harder but at the later developmental stages, these become sturdy and thicker as cardboard. The leaves can reach a maximum height of about four feet, but the leaf size is greatly dependent on the grow zone, and management measures. It produces insignificant blooms that specifically appear on the smaller spathes and are hidden by the spadix of pale yellowish-green color. The size of inflorescence can be enhanced by the provision of the right care and management. Properly managed plants produce red-colored berries having a significant attraction for the birds.


Anthurium warocqueanum is a hardy growing plant and grows well in the USDA zone of 10a-11. Although it can also be grown in other areas with mild fluctuation in the growing conditions, it must be protected from sudden fluctuation in temperature. Moreover, placing or growing the plants in too hot or cold conditions can also exert significant negative influences on their foliage and development.


This plant grows well in the well-drained and rich soil and grows mixes. The use of peat moss, sphagnum moss, charcoal, orchid bark, perlite, and organic material is greatly important to improve the physical, chemical, and biological properties of growing media. Ideally, it grows well in the pH range between 6.6-7.5, and growers can easily manage and control the pH of the growing medium by the addition of the right amendments. Maintaining the right pH is directly related to improved nutrient uptake and transformation.

Major variation in the soil pH can cause significant damage to the growing plants in terms of nutritional deficiencies and toxicities. The pH and properties of soil are greatly dependent on the material being used as an amendment and the specific topography and parent material of an area.

Therefore, growers must go for soil testing to get an idea about the physical, chemical, and biological attributes of the soil. They can avail of these services from the governmental soil and water testing laboratories, and agriculture extension workers. Moreover, pH meters of optimal and small sizes are also available in the market so purchasing pH meters is also a good approach for regular checking.

Lighting Requirements

This plant responds well to the light but it grows on the tree trunks in its natural growing environments. Direct and prolonged exposure of leaves to sunlight can cause leaf burning and scorching. The provision of indirect and bright sunlight helps to improve its growth and development. Growing this plant in mild or partial shade conditions is also helpful to boost growth. However, light must be provided for a few hours a day as otherwise, it can cause leaf yellowing.


Anthurium requires fairly higher humidity levels and growers must maintain at least 60-70% humidity in its surroundings. Growers can improve humidity in outdoor growing conditions by misting and regular water spraying. The use of humidifiers and placing the container in the pebble-filled moist try are excellent approaches to improve humidity.


Providing slow-release fertilizer at least once a week is helpful to improve the overall health and development of anthurium plants. This plant needs a continuous supply of nutrients for its normal growth and is continually receiving nutrients from plants in its natural environment. While in the outdoor and indoor conditions in the houses plant is not able to grow on a tree trunk and cannot obtain sufficient nutrients.

So, growers must provide the nutrients in the form of synthetic chemicals, and organic fertilizers to support their optimal growth. There is no need to fertilize the anthurium plants during the cold seasons. While application of balanced fertilizers instead of using any specific one is most significant to get better results. Dilution of fertilizer before the application is helpful to minimize overfertilizing, and foliage burning.


This plant grows well provided by good irrigation and moisture. However, the growth and development are directly affected by the presence of standing water. So good quality and well-drained growing medium should be used to improve drainage.

While growers should also do drainage holes in the containers to support effective drainage. Overwatering and underwatering can cause foliage burning and the appearance of spots on the leaves. While negligence for a longer period can also kill the healthy growing plants.

This plant requires a regular watering schedule because it is native to the rainforests and these rainforests receive much more rain than the other regions. The best growth and development of the plants can be observed by providing them best conditions according to their native climatic conditions.

Leaf yellowing is an indication of overwatering so growers must check their watering schedule at this time to minimize the damage. Watering after five to seven days is an ideal choice to maintain a good schedule. The selection of the right growing medium having good water holding capacity is also important to manage the watering needs of the plants.

This plant has more watering requirements than the other plants and grows well in partial shade conditions. So, there are slightly more chances of bacterial infections and fungal attacks. Growers must check the growing plants regularly for early detection of the problems. Although its foliage is thick and enormous it is delicate and sensitive to moisture and overwatering. Keeping a good eye on the growing plants is helpful to maintain good growth and development.


Anthurium grows well in the daylight temperature between 25-32 degrees Celsius and at night temperature 21-24 degrees Celsius. Higher temperatures can cause foliage to dry and fading of flowers. It can tolerate little fluctuation in the temperature, but major variation is greatly harmful. A temperature of fewer than 16 degrees Celsius can directly kill this plant. Growers must keep the growing plants away from drafts, ventilator grills, and heat ducts.


This plant requires regular pruning to maintain its good health and shape. Pruning is a great way to improve the health of growing plants as the growing plants can provide nutrients and energy to the newly growing points and branches. The larger growing plants do not look attractive in the houses and must be pruned to attain average height. More surface area of the plants also favors the more retention of moisture for longer times. This can make the plant more prone to diseases and bacterial problems. Always use sterilized and clean scissors to trim the dead parts, and damaged leaves.

How to grow Anthurium Warocqueanum from Seeds?

Usually, anthurium plants do not produce seeds in all growing environments so seed collection can be a problematic task. Obtaining seeds from friends, neighbors, or gardening stores is a feasible way to start anthurium from the seeds. The health and quality of seeds are a major concern for producing vigorous seedlings and healthier plants.

Therefore, growers should collect the seeds from reliable sources only. Propagating anthurium from the seeds is a tricky process and requires great care than the other methods. Production of fertile flowers is also a tricky task because there are different activation times for stamens and stigma. Pollen saving followed by tickling can help to produce good quality flowers and seeds. A

Anthurium plants produce both female and male flowers and female flowers come first. Fruit production is only possible when the plant has both male and female flowers. The presence of only one sex will never be favorable to produce fruits and seeds. Male flowers produce pollen and growers must collect these pollens and store it in the refrigerator because this plant produces the male and female flowers at different times.

The presence of female flowers can be identified by the presence of spadix. Usually, this spadix exudes liquid and has a bumpy appearance. Crossing the collected pollen with the female flowers helps to get the best results for seed production. This is not a favored and common propagation method due to complexity.

  • Seed propagation can be favored by continual care and management.
  • Flat structures are ideally helpful for the germination of the anthurium seeds.
  • Vermiculite is the best growing medium for anthurium seed germination.
  • Slightly press the anthurium seed into the grow media.
  • Allow a minimum space of 2.5 cm between the individual seeds to allow better space for germination.
  • Cover the container with clear plastic to speed up seed germination by more conservation of moisture and heat.
  • Place the containers at room temperature to favor the germination process. The use of heat pads is a good choice in colder climatic conditions.
  • Avoid moisture build-up on the grow media as it can lead to bacterial and fungal infections and disease development.
  • Insert holes in the cover to allow movement of air for breathing and moisture evaporation.
  • Remove the cover after germination and carefully place the seedlings in the individual containers.


How to Grow Anthurium Warocqueanum by Propagation?

  • The division is the best way to propagate the Anthurium warocqueanum plant. The division is significantly easier for this plant than the other houseplants because it produces offsets and buds.
  • This plant bears tiny buds once in a while. Growers can easily find these buds around the main stem.
  • Search the buds and offshoots growing around the stems.
  • Wait until there is the appearance of one to two leaves on the buds.
  • The development of aerial roots can be observed after the growth of one to two leaves.
  • These aerial roots are helpful for the absorption of nutrients for their survival.
  • There is no need to trim this structure from the main stem.
  • Use clean and sterilized scissors to cut these buds from the parent plant.
  • Prune the offshoots at the growing roots.
  • Place these offshoots in a container and fill the pot with good quality grow media or potting mix.
  • Place the newly growing plant in a humid and warm place.
  • Water this plant to avoid irrigation stress.

Propagating the Anthurium Plants from Stem Cuttings

  • The plant can also be propagated easily by using stem cuttings.
  • The clinging tendrils are essentially helpful for its propagation due to nutrient absorption capacity.
  • Its aerial roots have an excellent tendency to adjust to the underground parts with great ease.
  • Slices of stalks without leaves and roots can also be used to grow a full anthurium plant.
  • The stem cutting after immediate plantation may look fragile due to poor nutrient provision, less sunlight, soil aeration, temperature, humidity, and water. The health and vigor of stems are greatly improved with time.
  • Growers can also chop the stems into specific bits. This practice is only helpful in the presence of the right environmental conditions. Chopping in the variable temperature and unfavorable conditions can cause reduced survival chances and vigor.
  • The survival chances of stems and cuttings are greatly enhanced by the presence of more roots, leaves, and nodes on the cuttings.
  • A larger parent plant can also be used for further growth after removing all of its parts.
  • If an old anthurium plant is not flowering for a long time it can also be revitalized by proper trimming.
  • Younger anthurium plants can be fairly propagated from the healthier cuttings as long as there are nodes in the cuttings.
  • Collecting all necessary material before cutting stems and placing it in the containers is essentially important to avoid stress.
  • Use pruning shears to take cuttings and having a specific set of shears is greatly important to avoid any discomfort.
  • Use a disinfectant and clean water to wash the scissors or shears.
  • Use of a sharp knife is also a good approach if shears or scissors are not available.
  • Sterilization of shears, knives, and scissors helps to reduce the chances of microbial contamination, insect pest attack, and diseases. Moreover, the chances of further spread of the problem are also reduced.
  • Avoid the use of concentrated disinfectants and properly dilute them by adding distilled water or good quality tap water.
  • Carefully cut the stem in a single attempt and avoid multiple cuts on a single stem.
  • Clean the obtained cutting and prune it properly.
  • Clinging leaf-type husks are present on the stem and are known as stipules. The function of these structures is only the protection of emerging leaves.
  • Stipules are dead after taking the cutting from the parent plants and the wise practice is to remove these useless structures. Clearing stipules helps growers to see the cuts easily.
  • Prune shriveled and yellow, or brown leaves as these leaves will not serve the purpose for further growth.
  • Also, cut the flowers from the obtained stem. Flowers take all energy, nutrients, and water from the parent plant and the stems. Cutting these flowers helps plants to focus on new growth and development.
  • Carefully cut the stem into different sections but make sure that all parts have a minimum of about two nodes.
  • More aerial roots are sprouted on the longer segments. Thus there are more chances of survival and growth.
  • Never remove the healthy leaves from the stems as the presence of these leaves helps for further growth.
  • Apply rooting hormone on the cut ends of the stems as it encourages better and more effective rooting.
  • Growers can also apply a brush of cinnamon on the cutting if a rooting hormone is not available. Cinnamon has good antimicrobial properties and helps and helps to protect the cuttings from fungal and bacterial infections.
  • Place the cuttings in the containers and allow rooting in the ideal environmental conditions.
  • 1-2 nodes on the cuttings must be aboveground to support leaf growth.
  • Place plastic bags over the cuttings to enhance humidity in its surroundings.
  • The use of transparent plastic tubs provided with the locking lids is also helpful for enhancing moisture.

Potting and Repotting Anthurium Warocqueanum.

Growers can easily repot these plants in orchid baskets and regular pots. Orchid baskets have more holes and help for better survival and development of epiphytes. The use of a wooden basket is also a good approach to support its growth and development.

Most of the growers are also using clay pots because these are easy to manage and care for. Growers should do at least 1-2 holes in its bottom to ensure good drainage for avoiding root rotting and stress on the growing plants. Clay pots or terracotta pots are porous and allow good water retention. These plants are essentially important for improving drainage and circulation.

Anthurium Warocqueanum Common Problems and How to Treat

Mushy Roots

The presence of mushy roots can kill the plant and the problem can be resolved by removing these roots. Take sterilized scissors, and shears to cut the mushy, black, and softer roots. Wash all healthy growing roots using clean tap water to get better growth. Changing the previously used and infected substrate and grow media is also helpful to get rid of the mushy roots.

Root rotting pathogens are commonly present in the walls of growing pots, and soil. The problem of these pathogens can be reduced by proper disinfection and sterilization. Also, sterilize the scissors after use to protect against further spread of the problems.

Leaf Yellowing

Leaf yellowing of plants is caused due to various possible reasons. The most common reason for yellowing includes stress, insufficient humidity, aging, and unsuitable watering. Generally, the yellowing of older leaves is a natural process and there is no need to worry about this color change. Overwatering is also a common reason for leaf yellowing and problems can be easily avoided by monitoring the watering schedule.

Foliage Damage

Foliage is anthurium gets damaged due to various biotic and abiotic stresses and the problem can be resolved by identifying the root cause of the problem. Usually, the foliage is also damaged due to mishandling and sudden changes in environmental conditions.

Providing all inputs in a balanced way and maintaining the right conditions around the growing zone helps to reduce the chances of foliage damage. Early detection of the problem is greatly helpful to bear less severe consequences in the later stages.

Leaf Holes

The presence of holes in the anthurium leaves is due to pest attacks, lower humidity, and an irregular watering schedule. The insect’ feeds on its leaves and saps and may cause hole formation, leaf yellowing, and curling. Other than these leaf holes in the anthurium may also be caused due to higher temperatures, bacterial wilt, root rotting, and bacterial blights. This problem can be easily avoided by using sharp blasts and direct water sprays in the infected areas. The insect’s pests fall off due to water pressure and thus plants are protected from their feeding aftereffects.

Horticultural oil sprays and soap sprays are also available in the market and growers can also prepare these at home. Home-based formulations are safer and most effective than the formulations being sold in the market. Moreover, the use of manual, mechanical, and organic practices is greatly recommended than synthetic chemicals.

These chemicals contaminate the soil, and environment and pose serious threats to pets, children, and beneficial insects. Organic practices are also helpful to conserve biodiversity, ecosystem functioning, and beneficial creatures for gardening and production.

Brown Spots on the Plant Foliage

The appearance of brown patches on the anthurium plants is due to prolonged exposure to the sunlight. While underwatering and insufficient nutrition is also a major reason for brown spots on its foliage. Regularly check the growing plants for the presence of these spots and adjust the fertilization and watering schedule according to the needs of growing plants.

The direct exposure of plants to sunlight is a leading cause of this problem. Growers can easily resolve this problem by placing the plant in partial shade conditions. The provision of indirect and filtered light is also important to overcome this issue.

If the sun is not a major reason for this problem, check the nutrition, and watering factors to minimize the problems. This plant grows well in humid areas and moist soils. Avoid complete drying of the soil and other grow media as it can cause brown patches on the plants.

Correction of the watering schedule and fertilization according to prevailing climatic conditions and needs of plants (age-wise, and variety dependent) can reduce the problem on a sustainable basis. The use of organic fertilizers than synthetic chemicals is the best way to improve biodiversity in soil that in turn improves all its physical, chemical, and biological properties.

Pest Problems

The most common insect pests on the anthurium are scales, spider mites, aphids, thrips, and mealybugs. The problem of insect pest attacks can be avoided by regular monitoring and integrated pest management practices. Some of these pests produce white-colored web-like dust while others produce transparent and sticky fluids.

So even if some insects are not visible their presence can be detected and identified by these attributes. There is no need to worry about mild attacks as this problem can be reduced by water sprays, and rubbing alcohol dipped swabs on the leaves and foliage. The use of soap water formulations is also a good approach to get rid of pest populations.


Is Anthurium warocqueanum toxic to pets?

This plant contains specific compounds that are toxic to the pets so growers should not allow the pets to touch anthurium. There is no exemption of allowing contact with the specific plant part because all of its parts are toxic due to the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. The ingestion of this plant can irritate the digestive system, throat, and mouth.

The contact and consumption of these crystals can also cause skin irritation and itching. Wearing gardening gloves is helpful to minimize the chances of irritation on the skin. It is also important to note that the contact of this plant with the children is not even a good practice and they should not be allowed to touch this plant.

Is it possible to mist the plants for promoting their growth and development?

These plants are native to the rainforests and survive well in the presence of humid conditions. While increasing humidity is a major concern for houseplants. So many growers are asking about the possibility of misting around these plants. Slight misting with the rainwater or good quality tap water is helpful to improve its growth.

The use of contaminated and poor-quality water may cause foliage burning, insect pests attack, and disease development. Therefore, only good quality and clean water should be used for the misting purpose. Growers must use devices for measuring the humidity in the surroundings as sudden rise and fall and major fluctuations may kill even the vigorous plants.

The Hibiscus tree belongs to the flowering plants’ genus and Malvaceae family including more than 200 varieties of which some are edible, and some are not. It is native to the tropical and warm temperate regions and is being cultivated as an ornamental plant due to its beautiful flowers. Hibiscus leaves are smooth and lobed and are covered in plant hairs known as trichomes. The flowers can be born both in the form of flowering clusters and singly. A whorl of leaf-type bracts surrounding the sepals is common in the hibiscus tree. Typically, its stamens are fused into a specific tube. Hibiscus and other members of this genus have characteristically capsule fruits and spiny pollens. This tree does not require much care and management for growth, development, and flowering. Growers can get good growth by the optimal care and provision of the right climatic conditions.

How do grow the Hibiscus Tree? 


Hibiscus tree grows well in the USDA hardiness zone of 9-11 and some hibiscus varieties can tolerate little fluctuation in the prevailing climatic conditions. Hardy species can grow well in the 3-8 zones as well but these species shed their leaves in the fall season. The leaves appear back in the spring but the leaves and flowers can stay all year round in properly managed indoor growing conditions.

Hardy Species of Hibiscus Tree

Hardy species of this tree can be grown as perennial plants in all regions of the United States. Hardy plants go dormant in the cold and winter seasons and their normal growth is resumed in the spring. Growing hibiscus trees as perennial plants in the gardens and growing spaces help to boost the microbial biodiversity in the soil, attract pollinators, and prevent erosion. Thereby it significantly improves the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the soil than in turn supports better plant growth and production. All these hardy plant species thrive well in partial shade and full sun conditions and can easily adapt to the wide range of stressful conditions and growing mediums.

  • Hibiscus syriacus

It is also known as the rose of Sharon and is a remarkable tree with lush growing habits. It is native to some Asian regions and is well known for its varied and palleted blossoms with ruched, and double-layer petals. Scarlet and swap rose mallows can adapt to a wide range of soils including wetlands, dry, and nutrient-depleted soils. It can easily tolerate soil and air pollution, so it is an ideal choice for urban gardens and polluted sites. Modern cultivars have broad variations in the scale ranging from dwarf varieties (6-10 feet) to tall varieties (8-12 feet). Dwarf varieties are ideal choices for container gardening and indoor growing in space-limited conditions.

  • Hibiscus coccineus

This plant is native to the Eastern swampy regions of the United States and can grow 3-4 feet wide, and 6-10 feet in length. It is well known for its crimson unique blossoms and is easily recognizable due to its pointed petals. It’s compound and palmate leaves echos the specific star-shaped appearance of the flowers with finely toothed and skinny edges.

  • Hibiscus moscheutos

This species can grow 3-4 feet wide and 6-10 feet tall. Its striking flowers can reach the size of diner plates. Its flowers have pink, red, and white colors and sometimes these flowers have bicolor blends. Its leaves are velvety and broad and have toothed edges. It is native to the wetlands and survives well in the full sunny conditions and the moist soil. Growers can also observe good growth in the less favorable conditions as well by providing the right care and management.

Tropical Hibiscus Species

  • Hibiscus rosa sinensis

This specie produces glossy leaves with juicy blossoms bursting in the starburst shades. Chinese or tropical hibiscus is an amazing choice for the growers seeking colorful and showy statements. This plant can be easily grown indoors as a houseplant, but a provision of bright light, fertilizers, and water are greatly important to get good growth and development.

  • Cranberry Hibiscus

It is also known as red leaf hibiscus and is a popular ornamental plant due to its floral design and attractive foliage. It is known to be native to the East African regions and is well known for its palmate and wine-colored leaves that resemble Japanese maples. This plant produces pink flowers during the summer season in tropical areas. It rarely blooms in the annual growing habits, but its foliage also serves good ornamental functions. It produces stunning flowers in the fall and summer that turn bronze-colored in the autumn season. Its leaves have a tangy flavor and are edible and younger leaves also retain the color after cooking. Typically, this tree can grow 24-30 inches in width and 3-5 feet in length.

  • Roselle Hibiscus

This hibiscus plant is not much common in the United States but is gaining significant popularity over time. Roselle is being grown more for its calyx and less for the flowers. Its sepals are succulent and provide an envelope to the fertilized edible seeds. These are rich in vitamin C and have a delightful zingy flavor. It can grow to a length of 3-5 feet in the gardens and produces burgundy veins and stems with cream-colored flowers and emerald foliage. This plant is also available in the farmer’s market in the late fall and summer. Creative farmers sell decorated calyx studded stems with textural elements. Its tea is also used as a traditional household staple, and traditional beverage.


Hibiscus trees can tolerate a great range of soils and can be easily grown in both wet and dry conditions. Better hibiscus growth can be observed in the well-draining and moist soils. The addition of organic matter, compost, peat, and muck soil is greatly helpful to improve the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the soil. Different types of growing media are also available in the market and gardening stores and growers can purchase any according to the requirements. Making compost at home and adding organic matter to the soil is a cheaper alternative as this plant does not die in the absence of exactly the right type of soil.


Hibiscus tree grows best in the slightly acidic soils between the pH range of 6.5-6.8. Growers can easily change the soil pH to this range by the addition of different amendments and grow mixes. Determination of soil pH is a prior requirement before adding any amendment. Soil pH meters are available in the market and growers can check pH at home. Moreover, they can also consult the local agricultural services providers, soil testing laboratories, and agriculture extension workers for soil pH testing.


Hibiscus trees grow best in full sunny and partial shade conditions. A minimum of about 2 hours of sunlight exposure is a must for blooming stimulation. Insufficient exposure to the light causes bushy growth and less to no blooming. Its exposure to sunlight should be reduced in the presence of higher temperatures. The watering needs of the growing hibiscus plants goes up in the presence of high temperature and more sunlight. Therefore optimization of these three factors is a must approach to get good growth and development.

More exposure of plants to direct and scorching sunlight can cause sunburn and chlorophyll destruction in the leaves. Although this plant can easily adapt to a wide range of growing conditions, more variation can cause white sunburn effects. This plant produces more buds in the summer heat provided by the better watering scheduling.


Hibiscus plants can grow in depleted soils but respond well to the addition of organic and inorganic fertilizers. Consistent and planned fertilizer application according to the soil nutrient status and growing needs helps to produce better growth, development, buds’ formation, and flowering. The use of inorganic fertilizers is not a good approach as these synthetic chemicals pose threats to beneficial insects, soil biota, and the environment.


The problem of weeds and soil drying around the hibiscus trees can be reduced by mulching. Mulching also protects the roots of growing plants from the rain splashes and harsh elements. Organic mulching is much more effective than inorganic mulching as the decomposition of organic materials constantly releases nutrients to the soil. Moreover, mulching is also helpful for temperature regulation and conserving soil moisture contents. Mulching to the depth of about 2-3 inches is recommended for supporting the hibiscus growth and development.


Regular watering is required for better growth and flowering of the hibiscus tree. Watering is a simple but challenging task as it requires the right and oriented adjustment according to the prevailing situation and microclimate. Hibiscus is a water-loving tree, but growers should be careful about the quality of water. The presence of contaminants and pollutants can cause adverse effects on the roots and foliage of growing plants. Water the plants when the upper few inches of the soil are getting dried and don’t allow the water to stand in the soil. The watering requirements of the plants are variable according to prevailing conditions so the watering schedule should be decided according to plant needs during a specific time of the year. Overwatering can cause root rotting, and dried soils cause insect pest attacks. Therefore, adjustment of the watering schedule helps reduce the disease occurrence and insect pest attack.


The Hibiscus plant cannot tolerate the colder temperature and requires a warm temperature for bud formation and flowering. Growers must maintain optimal temperature conditions in both indoor and outdoor conditions. Colder temperature causes dropping off of the buds and reduced flowering. Even though this plant can adapt to a wide range of prevailing conditions it cannot withstand sudden extreme changes in humidity and temperature. Never place the plants near the entryways, TVs, radiators, and drafty areas.


Hibiscus tree grows well in humid conditions and growers should maintain good humidity in both outdoor and indoor growing conditions. Misting and water spraying is a good approach to improve humidity in outdoor conditions while the use of humidifiers is the best approach for indoor growing. Alternatively, growers can also place gravel-filled trays below the hibiscus pots. Watering these gravel-filled trays also helps to improve the humidity level in the surroundings.


Regular pruning is required to maintain the shape, remove the dead parts, and encourage good quality blooms. Hibiscus trees can tolerate heavy pruning so growers must prune all larger and smaller plants. Removal of flowering buds along with the foliage causes the plant to bloom after a long time. Selective trimming of the leggy growth is recommended for protecting the rest of the plant. Pruning plant in the late winter is a good approach to encourage bushy growth.

How to grow the Hibiscus Tree from seeds?

Hardy hibiscus varieties are easy to grow from the seeds and vigorous germination can be assured by following the right care and management. While Chinese hibiscus has slowed growing habits and growers should start it with seedlings and nursery plants. All hibiscus plants can be easily started from stem cuttings but the new growth from healthy seeds assures good and vigorously growing seedlings. The outer layer on the hibiscus seeds can slow down the germination process and the problem can be reduced by soaking the seeds overnight. Nicking the seeds with the knife and sandpaper also helps to speed up the germination process. Better germination requires optimal temperature in the soil and surroundings so the use of heat maps is a good idea for the colder regions.

How to grow the Hibiscus Tree by Propagation?

  • Propagation by Cutting

The Hibiscus plant can be easily propagated by using stem cuttings. The selection of good quality and disease-free plants is the best approach to ensure better growth and development. Propagating this plant by using stem cutting is an ideal choice for tropical and hardy hibiscus species.

  • Mid-summer is the best propagation time for the hibiscus plant.
  • Select the branches with a green and smoother growing pattern.
  • Look for the disease-free stems having dark green, smooth, and plenty of leaves.
  • Taking cuttings from the darker green, and slighter brown stems is also fine.
  • Avoid propagation in the winter and autumn as propagation in this time takes a significantly longer time.
  • Avoid taking hibiscus cuttings during the late summer conditions as it can cause compromised growth and development.
  • The rooting of the woodier stems is harder and taking cuttings in the late summer causes cuttings to become woodier.
  • Use a sharp knife or scissors to take the cutting and avoid placing the cuttings on the contaminated floor.
  • Avoid taking numerous cuttings from single-parent plants as it can affect the growth pattern of the parent plants.
  • Taking 5-6 cuttings is enough for one-time propagation.
  • Wipe the pruning scissors and shears with a damp, clean cloth to prevent rusting and bacterial attack.
  • Remove all leaves on the cutting and allow only 2-4 leaves to stay.
  • If the remaining leaves have a large size then cut them in the horizontal pattern to avoid wilting.
  • Never pull the leaves from the cuttings as it can damage the stem fibers.
  • Cut the bottom of the stem diagonally to encourage better growth.
  • Cutting through the eye is even more helpful to support good growth. Eyes are the points where leaves emerge from the stems and these points have natural hormones to boost the growth.
  • Take the cuttings from the softwoods or new growth.
  • Cutting should have 4-6 inches of length to support better rooting and growth.
  • Trim the bottom of the cutting just below the node where the leaf was growing.
  • Dip the cutting in the good quality rooting hormone to encourage good rooting.
  • Place the cutting in good quality and well-drained soil.
  • Prepare to grow media by adding perlite and potting soil in the 50-50 ratio.
  • Use of organic materials, and compost and thoroughly water the rooting soil.
  • Stick the soil around the cutting to support good rooting.
  • Place the plastic cover over this cutting but don’t allow the touch between a plastic bag and cutting leaves.
  • Slightly open the plastic bag or make some holes in this bag to allow proper airflow and ventilation.
  • Ensure wetness of the soil or grow media until the cuttings are properly rooted.
  • Usually, the cuttings are rooted within eight weeks. And can be placed in the bigger pots after this time.
  • The success rate of propagating the tropical hibiscus is less than the hardy hibiscus. So, use multiple cuttings for efficient propagation.
  • Air Layering 

Air layering is an efficient way to propagate the hibiscus tree. In this process, the existing stem is used for growing the new plant.

  • Cut the bark of the disease-free stem into two different points at a distance of about 1 cm.
  • Remove the outer bark and expose the white wooden layer.
  • Apply rooting hormone on the exposed wooden parts.
  • Moisten the sphagnum moss and pack it around the cut area.
  • Use clear, and contaminant-free plastic for this purpose.
  • Seal this plastic specifically at the bottom and top of the cutting with tape to minimize the entry of air in the cut stem.
  • Cover the plastic with an aluminum foil layer followed by wrapping it with brown paper.
  • A healthy rooting system will be evident inside the plastic after a few weeks.
  • Separate the new plant from the existing plant and place it in the pot for further growth and development.


  • Grafting

Grafting is done by combining the plant rootstock having good resistance to the diseases and sticking it with the more attractive and less hardy specimen.

  • Grafting requires great care and attention and is a difficult task for inexperienced gardeners.
  • The top of the grafted plant is known as scion. Cut the rootstock stem in such a way that it can easily accept the scion stem.
  • Seal both these parts with the tape and allow good bonding. After that rooted part can be cut and used for the new growth.


Common Problems of the Hibiscus Tree and How to Treat

The hibiscus tree is adaptable to various fluctuating environmental conditions and stresses. The problem of insect pests and diseases is not severely significant for this plant. Preventing the disease spread and insect pest attack is greatly helpful to boost sustainable growth, and flowering.


Root rotting due to overwatering is a common fungal disease that greatly affects the growth of the hibiscus trees. Rotting of hibiscus leaves also causes leaf yellowing, development of leaf spots, and leaf fall. The problem of root rotting can be avoided by ensuring good drainage and improving the biological health of the soil.


Usual suspects of this plant are common insect pests, and their population can be controlled by using manual, mechanical, and chemical approaches.

  • Spider Mites

The appearance of webs and silky threads on the lower sides of plant leaves is a classic indication of the presence of spider mites. Sometimes these mites also appear as red dots. The problem of spider mites on the hibiscus tree can be controlled with warm water treatment. Early detection of pests is greatly helpful to control this problem on a sustainable basis. Usually, the yellowing of leaves is an indication of weather changes but if the yellowing remains after weather changes it may be an indication of spider mites’ presence. Their populations can also be detected by using microscopes and magnifying glasses. The process of reducing spider mites on the hibiscus plant is as follows.

  • Wrap the hibiscus-containing container or pot with aluminum foil.
  • Use good quality tape for securing the foil.
  • Carefully lay the plant on a side in the clean bathtub.
  • Fill the tub with warm water and add some liquid soap. It helps to make insecticidal formulations.
  • Leave the hibiscus plant in this tub for 60 minutes.
  • Drain the water from the bathtub after this time.
  • Allow the plant to stand in the tub and carefully remove the aluminum foil to drain the excess water.
  • This warm water treatment kills all the spider mites and their eggs.
  • Leaf drop is evident to some extent after this soaking method. So, don’t worry about the minor problem.
  • Scale

Scales can cause significant damage to the growing hibiscus tree and their populations can be eliminated by using a well-prepared mixture of alcohol and baby oil. Apply this mixture with a toothbrush and scrub the pests. Hose down the plant for about thirty minutes and keep the plant away from the sun during this treatment. Allow the plant to stay in the shade for longer periods. This application is ideally helpful on cloudy days for the removal of insect pests.

  • Hibiscus Thrips

Thrips are of smaller sizes, and it is very difficult to identify their presence. These can be seen as smaller dots on the lower sides of the leaves. Thrips also fly around the plant and crawl on the foliage. Early detection is critically important for effective control and better management.

  • Mealybugs

These are white-colored crawling insects and leave behind white fuzzy substances. The use of systemic insecticides, soap sprays, neem oils, and essential oils is greatly helpful to control the mealybug infestations on the hibiscus trees.

  • Aphids

These are pear-shaped tiny insects under the hibiscus foliage and are of different colors such as yellow, gray, white, green, and brown. The use of organic sprays and manual control is greatly helpful to resolve the problem on a sustainable basis.

  • Whiteflies

Hordes of whiteflies can be seen swarming on the hibiscus foliage. The problem of whiteflies on the hibiscus trees can be controlled in the following way.

  • Regularly inspect the leaf surfaces and foliage and carefully identify the stationary nymphs, and whitefly eggs.
  • Use clippers for pruning the infected leaves. Carefully dispose of the infected parts to avoid further spread.
  • The use of a strong water blast with the spraying hose is helpful to control whiteflies.
  • Use this water blast at least once a week to get rid of whiteflies.
  • Spray insecticidal soaps, neem oils, and horticultural oils on the plants especially underside the leaves.
  • This causes suffocation for the nymphs and significantly inhibits their growth.
  • The use of chemical insecticides is also beneficial, but it causes problems for the environment and beneficial insects.
  • Growers can also trap the whiteflies by using the sticky yellow traps.
  • Apply liquid dishwashing detergent and petroleum jelly on the bright yellow painted cards.
  • Place the cards towards the infected hibiscus tree to attract the insects.


Potting and Repotting Hibiscus 

  • Carefully check the repotting requirements of the growing hibiscus by observing the drainage holes of the containers for the projecting roots.
  • Loosen the plant in the pot and lift it in the upward direction to observe the roots in a better way.
  • The plant needs repotting if its roots are making tight pot-shaped circles.
  • Select a new container or pot with the same diameter and height to keep the present size of the hibiscus.
  • Growers can also select larger containers to allow larger and wider growth of hibiscus trees.
  • Must provide drainage holes or channels in the containers to avoid root rotting and saturation.
  • Add two inches of good quality soilless growing media in the container and moisten it with water.
  • Use good growing media with fine drainage capacity and organic matter contents.
  • Potting soil and mixes for the hanging plants are ideal growing media for hibiscus repotting.
  • Loosen the tree in its first container and gently lift the plant.
  • Gently shake it to remove the soil from the older growing medium.
  • Slice the roots with a sharp knife for untangling if the roots are winded tightly.
  • Trim the broken roots to avoid any problem.
  • Place the tree deeper in the new container than the older one.
  • Thoroughly water the growing media in the new container to maintain good moistness.
  • Add mulch or organic material on the top few inches of the container to support the slow and consistent release of nutrients.
  • Keep the container or pot in the bright direct sunlight for some days and then place it back to its original place.


Is a hibiscus tree an indoor or outdoor plant?

Hibiscus trees can be grown in both indoor and outdoor conditions. Outdoor growing plants can easily tolerate fluctuating prevailing conditions and growing mediums. This plant grows and blooms well in well-managed indoor conditions.

Where is the best place to plant hibiscus?

The best place for growing the hibiscus tree is a spot where it can receive proper sunlight and partial shade. The sites having fertile and well-drained soils are also helpful to support better growth and development. The plant can be grown at any place in indoor conditions where growers can manage all growing requirements according to its needs.

What do you do with a hibiscus tree in the winter?

During the winter conditions keep the plant in the unheated basement or garage where the optimal temperature is maintained. Sunlight and warmth can break the dormancy of the hibiscus early. Supply enough moisture during the winter season to support its dormancy. Increase watering frequency and intensity gradually and improve the exposure of the plant to the sunlight by the end of the winter season. Do not fertilize the plant in the winter. Avoid placing the plants near to the heaters and bursts of hot air as it can directly kill the plants.

How to revive a dying hibiscus?

Growers can revive the dying hibiscus plants by using the following care and management measures.

  • Keep soil moist and avoid saturation.
  • Mist the leaves of growing hibiscus to increase humidity levels in the surroundings.
  • Ensure at least 5-6 hours of exposure of the hibiscus plant to the sunlight.
  • Replace the poor soil with well-drained and fertile soils.
  • Avoid the complete saturation around the rhizosphere to avoid root rotting.
  • Avoid windy, and dry conditions in the hibiscus surroundings.
  • Avoid overwatering and underwatering.
  • Fertilize plants according to the requirements of different growing stages and nutrient provision capacity of growing media.
  • Avoid over usage of synthetic chemicals to minimize the stress on plants.
  • Use all-purpose fertilizers to provide all macronutrients and micronutrients to the growing hibiscus plants.

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